Mounting A 6.5 In The Door?

Pics or any details of how any of you have mounted a 6.5" in the door?

Thinking I can cut a bit out of the opening and make a filler panel with puck board and have room to mount the tweeter in the bit just above the driver in the 6x8" hole. Thoughts? Is this what most do? Searching revealed nothing helpful.

Thanks guys!

6.5" round speaker should pretty much 100% drop right into the existing opening, I actually have 6.75" mids that dropped right into my opening without trimming since they only had a 4-spoke basket. Worst case maybe a slight bit of trimming just for the outermost portion of the circle.

If you want to make an adapter panel or speaker baffle some good materials would be MDF or some HDPE (cheap cutting boards) MDF works great as it is nearly acoustically dead, however it has a tendency to take on moisture, to combat the moisture issue you can coat the MDF if fiberglass resin, or in some bedliner material.

I looked but I have no pictures sadly to show, and I hate to admit but my speakers are still riding around on the metal door frame and I have yet to make baffles for them. You'll have to drill some new mounting holes but otherwise you should simply be able to drop them right in.

I thought they would too! My old Infinity's did, but these JL's have a lip on the bottom of the mountain flange, about a 1/4" inward. I can either make a spacer to lift it up about 1/8" to clear it, or cut out the little extra off the door and have it drop in. Still undecided.

Guess it depends on what you feel stronger at, a little wood working, or some metal cutting. Me personally I would rather add something that is temporary to the truck than cut it up. Not that the cutting would limit you dropping the factory speakers back into the truck, just less evidence if you go with a wood spacer. Some 1/8" or 1/4" stock and a couple mins with a drill and jigsaw and you should be good to go.

I just put in some 6.5's in yesterday. There rockfords and i had to cut the hole a little bigger. It really wasnt a big deal at all and i wasnt worried. I just made them sit as far down in the stock speaker hole as i could and made a plate for it all and put the tweeter above the speaker for now. Here in the next couple days im going to convert the rear speakers into 6.5's also.

Thanks guys.

Ended up cutting some relief cuts for tabs into the 6x8" hole around the bottom to push the "tabs" inward. Used some puck board (1/8" PVC sheeting), made a surround, then just mounted the driver to through the board to the door and mounted the tweeter above the driver. Tight squeeze, but it works and sounds great!

Looks like I am a little late, but here's a few pic's....

Nicely done! Better looking setup than I rigged up too, lol.

Where did you mount the tweets?

Just posed up some pic's in the "Sound Off" thread.

907DAVE said:

Just posed up some pic's in the "Sound Off" thread.

Click to expand...

I see that now, looks so clean, awesome work my friend! Wish I had the skills of you and jdc753. You guys raise the bar . . .
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Another question for you guys without starting a new thread. I have some fatmat sound deadener, I lined the back wall and didn't notice much difference (had the back seat out), will lining the doors make any noticeable different in audio improvement/cut down road noise? It's 0.80 mil stuff. Any need for the moisture barrier after lining the door?

Edit - I guess this thread kind of answers my question, lol:
http://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11037

Josh (jdc753) deserves all the credit for my build, without his help I would have never pulled it off.

907DAVE said:

Josh (jdc753) deserves all the credit for my build, without his help I would have never pulled it off.

Click to expand...

Thanks Dave, but I can't take all the credit since you obviously have excellent fab skills!!! It was a pleasure seeing you post up the finished pics and how well it came out!

sniper_101 said:

I see that now, looks so clean, awesome work my friend! Wish I had the skills of you and jdc753. You guys raise the bar . . .
---------------
Another question for you guys without starting a new thread. I have some fatmat sound deadener, I lined the back wall and didn't notice much difference (had the back seat out), will lining the doors make any noticeable different in audio improvement/cut down road noise? It's 0.80 mil stuff. Any need for the moisture barrier after lining the door?

Edit - I guess this thread kind of answers my question, lol:
http://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11037

Click to expand...

I'm still slacking on my deadening so its hard for me to quantify any improvements but I would imagine you would have a pretty good change by doing the back wall. I had noticed a huge difference when driving around with the back seat up vs the back seat down so I know a good bit of noise comes through that back wall section. The moisture barriers have been off my doors for a little over a year now and I haven't noticed any adverse effects. My passenger side door has been fully deadened for about 1.5 years and drivers door half deadened (inside skin only) for about a year.

The one thing to know with deadening and applying these sort of treatments is that the deadener you are applying is mainly for structural born noises such as rattles and panel resonance (audible vibrations in the metal itself) while these will help in reducing road noise to a degree they won't totally cancel it out like an actual air barrier will, stuff like the sound of tires on pavement and wind and exhaust that sort of stuff will need a closed cell foam or mass loaded vinyl to cancel out.