To wastegate or not to wastegate...

What do you guys think - wastegate or no wastegate? I am not going for huge power, just reliability. I don't want the possibility of one of those EGR coolers becoming a coolant injector.

So do I go with block off plates, full egr delete - NO wastegate, or full egr delete - WITH wastegate. What are the pros and cons?
I read BFT's wastegate guide - which was very informative - but what is everybody else doing? Are you guys all running the Elite Wastegate kit?

If you have the funds for the EGR delete w/wastegate, I say go for it. I went with the EGR cooler delete without wastegate and CFM+ because it was in my budget at the time and I could always add the wastegate later if I needed it. So far, with 20 passes down the track with the Spartan 310, I have zero issues not running a wastegate.

Thanks, thats good to know. I'm guessing you don't tow, right? At least with that truck...

I am pulling the camper in my avatar, 42' and about 12750lbs dry. Any idea if towing load is different than track load for wastegate use?

mortal798 said:

Thanks, thats good to know. I'm guessing you don't tow, right? At least with that truck...

I am pulling the camper in my avatar, 42' and about 12750lbs dry. Any idea if towing load is different than track load for wastegate use?

Click to expand...

No towing, but I bet I see more drive pressure in a 1/4 mile pass than you ever see towing. I could be wrong, but it only makes sense. I think you will be fine without a wastegate, but I only say this because of my setup being proven now for 15,000 miles.

I would gate it anyway but i think the gates kinda come in the higher rpm range i dont know when your truck shifts when towing, but i think the gate is a good idea

Aren't some complaining of power loss with the wastegate? Are they not dialing them in right?

you will see a more BP towing then you would racing.

and if there is any power loss then they are either, A, not hooking it up correctly or, B, not dialing it in.

edit: depending on the tune that is being run will determine the BP you see.

The gates need to be dialed right, and it seems that a Dyno is the only way to do it right.

Noone has the magic numbers?

#2 post

http://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=452
^^^click

Right on

I would gate it just for the piece of mind and its another tool you can control an aspect of your truck

i agree with eric

Well, thats what I'm thinking. I like that Jeff has 15,000 miles on his set up wit no gate, but he is racing - not towing. I want to be safe and not end up on the side of the road wth my wife and two little kids 300 miles form home because I didn't spend the extra money on a wastegate.

If I sell this engine, i will probably be the first thing I buy...

08stroker250 said:

No towing, but I bet I see more drive pressure in a 1/4 mile pass than you ever see towing. I could be wrong, but it only makes sense. I think you will be fine without a wastegate, but I only say this because of my setup being proven now for 15,000 miles.

Click to expand...

Agreed totally. I tow a 22k material handler and see higher drive pressures on the track. Unless you use nitrous save a ton of cash and get block off plates.

Keep an eye out for an affordable gate/cooler delete system to come to the market here soon...

Interesting

:whs: how soon u thinking?

:whs: I am looking at buying in the next 2 weeks or so...

I would definately gate it to relieve the high back pressure these motors see. Jeff might not have a gate on his but I'll bet you wouldn't like what the top of his pistons looked like if you took his heads off.