Check Your BRAKES

TurboM700 · Feb 21, 2012

Freinds has a 2010 F-350 with 22,000 miles on it. We are leaving in a week to go snowmobiling out west with it, so I had him bring it over so I could do a once over on it and rotate the tires. This is where the fun starts

Get the truck up in the air to rotate the tires and the front wheels will not spin. Thought to my self this is weird get the wheels off and still wont spin.

Took the Cailber off and they will spin. Inner Pad on both front brakes was frooze in the slide. The drivers side I had a prybar and a 5 pound hammer to pound it out of the slides.

We ended up doing front brakes and rotors as the rotors had good heat spots on them. He said is MPH since he bought the truck was no better then 8 MPG. I can see why now.

I have owned my small automotive shop for 5 years now and I have never seen brake pads that stuck before. First time for everything I guess

All in all I'm happy I found this as this should increase our MPG going out west a few.:redspotdance:

WoodBoy · Feb 21, 2012

Someone else just had a similiar problem. I think a guy got back from his deployment? and his dad came to pick him up on his 6.4 and had the similiar problem

TyCorr · Feb 21, 2012

Did you dremel the slides out? Or the tabs on the pad? What do you use to lube the slidez/prevent them from corroding. Ive always just used the dremel and some caliper lube I got at ace ten years ago. Im kinda outta the loop on whats out there :shrug:

TurboM700 · Feb 21, 2012

I took the Cailber mounts off and ground the area where the pads sits back down to metal. Then I use black moly on that surface. I have found that it works the best as it turns into a paste over time and sticks well to the taps/slides.

Mike

TyCorr · Feb 21, 2012

TurboM700 said:
I took the Cailber mounts off and ground the area where the pads sits back down to metal. Then I use black moly on that surface. I have found that it works the best as it turns into a paste over time and sticks well to the taps/slides.

Mike

Isnt that stuff similar to anti-seize? I know moly is a lubricant and all but....

Ill look into it. My dad gave me some red grease to use but im not sure about it. Most people look at me like im high when im grinding on pads or the slots they reside in. THATS why the "theory" that stock brakes last longer than replacement brake jobs even exists. Imo anyway.

TurboM700 · Feb 21, 2012

Vary simalr to Anit-Size just different. Stuff works awesome.

I was alawys told that the orginal pads are a complete different material then any aftermarket thats why they last so long. Heck I just did front brakes on a Chevy Avalanche with 125k that had orginal pads on it. I'm lucky to get 30k out of my trucks front brakes.

TyCorr · Feb 21, 2012

They are ceramic/metallic, I believe. The 100+ dollar pads at the part store that nobody wants to buy. Thats why they last...idk honestly. I used to believe what you just stated.

powerlifter405 · Mar 11, 2012

TurboM700 said:
Freinds has a 2010 F-350 with 22,000 miles on it. We are leaving in a week to go snowmobiling out west with it, so I had him bring it over so I could do a once over on it and rotate the tires. This is where the fun starts

Get the truck up in the air to rotate the tires and the front wheels will not spin. Thought to my self this is weird get the wheels off and still wont spin.

Took the Cailber off and they will spin. Inner Pad on both front brakes was frooze in the slide. The drivers side I had a prybar and a 5 pound hammer to pound it out of the slides.

We ended up doing front brakes and rotors as the rotors had good heat spots on them. He said is MPH since he bought the truck was no better then 8 MPG. I can see why now.

I have owned my small automotive shop for 5 years now and I have never seen brake pads that stuck before. First time for everything I guess

All in all I'm happy I found this as this should increase our MPG going out west a few.:redspotdance:

Had same exact problem. It was pulling to the left, the dealer in shakopee was working on my radiator/tsb issue and gave me the heads up on the rusted calipers.
I had to replace both front calipers and new pads all around. I used a steel file and cleaned up the rear calipers. Never had something like this happen before and the truck is driven 3-4 days a week.

Tree Trimmer · Mar 12, 2012

anything that gums up, and turns to a paste, in my experience, is bad. anti-seize, grease, all will freeze them prematurely. been there done that.

your looking for something that will displace water, not turn milky and run out, this allowing corrosion to happen.

our latest thing, last couple years, is either die electric grease, or vaseline. neither of which gum up, or turn milky and run out.

moly, non-moly, water proof grease, both the silver and the gold anti seize, have all gummed up on me when dirty, and/or run out when wet.

15k miles, 4 tire rotations, and with vaseline, havent needed to clean or reapply. looks the same as when i put it in.

powerlifter405 · Mar 12, 2012

die electric?? it doesn't seem that it would handle the heat.

On my 02 from TX, never had any problems, but my 08 w/ 70k had this happen. I put brake grease on all moving parts.

I would have ventured that the copper anti seize would be ok.

powersmokin64 · Mar 15, 2012

I had the right side on my harley truck do this years back I never found a 100% fix right side always wore faster than my drivers side. Also had two hubs completely break off the caliper on that side. I wanted to keep that truck but it was ALLLLWAAAAYS something.