Bad Track bar bushing

Lately I have been having the "death wobble" around 40-55mph. I didn't really pay it much attention for about a month, but last weekend I was hauling my fourwheeler in the bed and man did it make it worse! I was going a little over 70 mph when I crossed some rail road tracks and the entire truck tried to rattle itself apart before I could get it stopped. So I have been under my truck all week trying to figure out what was wrong. Finally I had a buddy turn the steering wheel back and fourth and then I could see how bad the track bar bushing really was. It has a good bit of slack in it. My problem now is do I order an aftermarket track bar or try to get a bushing from ford ($19) and try to press it in myself? Sorry for the long post!

Same thing is happening with mine. I emailed energy suspension to see if they had something but never heard from them.
How much is it for the entire assembly?

if you plan on lifting ever I would entertain the adjustable track bars

but otherwise I would do the bushing ps that bolt is a crazy torque to tighten
make sure your tools are up to it

Well I bought a new bar from ford today (130$) and got the bolts and nuts off but I can't get the darn thing off where it's pressed on. I've tried everything but a torch! Any ideas?

There is a way to do it but Im at work and the instructions are at home and I forgot how. Either Icon or Truck Toyz has instructions on there web site on how to do it. If you cant find it I will look it up when I get home.

Pickle fork on a air hammer.

It tied the air hammer but my fork isn't wide enough and I can't find a bigger one anywhere around where I live.

OK here you go:

Support the axle housing with a floor jack and remove the front shocks. The shocks are limiting droop so make sure the axle is supported or the axle will fall when the shocks are removed.

Loosen the 24mm nut on the lower end of the pan rod bar; leave the nut engaged a couple a threads. Put a pry bar between the pan rod bar and the lower pan rod joint housing. Slowly lower the axle housing making sure not to over extend any hoses or brake lines, as the axle is lowered the pry bar will cam in-between the joint and dislodge the taper. You will hear a loud pop when the taper dislodges. You can now remove the nut and the upper pan rod bar.

This worked great for me per the instructions.

great info

good workaround

Thanks! I'll try that

Pmac21 said:

Thanks! I'll try that

Click to expand...

Let us know how it works. It worked great for me

Well I tried a different way before going through the trouble of taking the shocks off. I jacked up the passenger side axle tube, took the tire off, and put a pry bar under the knuckle while a buddy hit down on the track bar with a big chisel. Two hits and it came right off! Truck drives do much better now. I guess trying it by myself was my biggest problem the first time. Thanks for the help guys