"Down the line" Cummins swap, suggestions wanted.

With the very real possibility that a close friend may purchase my 911 I am considering a Cummins swap for my truck. I'd like to eventually make 400-500hp at the wheels without spending more than I need to. Which engine would be best? 12v, 24v, common rail? I don't expect to go beyond that level of performance. I need a good dependable daily driver and tow rig. I would likely do a ZF6 conversion at the same time. I like my IDIT but it's not practical for building more power, a PSD swap seems too involved. I do have a line on used Cummins engines from "timed out" Fed Ex trucks. I don't think there are any common rails but there are definitely 12v and 24v's available for a good price. So with those things in mind what do some of you guys with experience recommend?

They are all good engines (12/24/CR's).. A big factor will depend on several things for a swap, the biggest being how much you can aquire the engine for. Generally speaking, a 12v is going to be the easiest and likely the cheapest route. There are a minimal amount of electronics to mess with, injectors are dirt cheap, and they are simple.

Common Rail's are a great way to go (which is what I did). They are quiet, can be turned up or down via a tuner, and have potential for great power.

Downside for a CR is electronics and wiring if you want it done right.

For 400hp you could go with a 89-91.5 non intercooled VE pumped Cummins that you could add the IC to down the road or the 91.5-93 Cummins if you want the IC right away. Anything over 400hp is do-able with the VE but is easier with the p-pumped 12v. For what you plan on putting it in I'd say 12v only since there's almost no wiring to do. The 24v fuel pumps are known to be problimatic and IIRC the 24v had the "53" block issue with cracking. Turning up the VE pumps are super easy and the p-pumps are a piece of cake but you really can't go wrong with any 89-98.5 Cummins.

I can get either a 12v or 24v for $1500 but it's not from a Dodge. These are from timed out Fedex trucks. The intercoolers are huge and would not fit my truck without serious mods. From the sounds of it the 12v would be the best bet. The plan would be to get the engine, clean it up and put fresh paint on it, add a few speed parts to get to my desired HP level of 400rwhp minimum then install it in my truck. I'd then sell my Banks Turbo IDI to my neighbor who's dying for a turbo in his DRW CCLB truck.

12v is my vote... Cheap and easy.

CR makes 400hp with a good tuner all day long but the wiring would be a PITA.

I don't even know if you'd have all the wires to run anything but the 12v. The IC is an easy swap and alot of guys run a second gen or PSD IC. You may want to get a compresion test on the motor-few guys have had issues due to excess abuse/idle on old delivery trucks.

Side note: where are you getting the engines from?

Im getting ready to start my 12v swap... We shall see how it goes...

I got my 12v out of a FedEx truck also. Keep in mind you will need either an adapter plate to run your current trans, or you can do like I did an run a dodge trans an t-case. Another thing you'll have to do is buy the longer oil pick-up tube so you can flip the oil pan around. I had a few friends tell me how cheap it was to do the swap, well I still managed to drop about 10 grand on mine between the motor, built trans, and go-fast parts. I could've done it cheaper, but i didn't wanna half-ass it. Feel free to pm me if you have any questions or need help finding parts. Good luck with it

The wiring on a CR is not bad at all. It's a few grounds, some power, and ignition + to get it running.

If you are seriously considering a swap the best bet would be to find a dodge truck with a cummins in it. I bought my 1st gen in the sig for 2000 bucks with 150k on the engine. I could easily part it out and near double my money.

Goose1995 said:

If you are seriously considering a swap the best bet would be to find a dodge truck with a cummins in it. I bought my 1st gen in the sig for 2000 bucks with 150k on the engine. I could easily part it out and near double my money.

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Not gonna happen in my neck of the woods. Running PSD's and Cummins go for minimum $4k around here. Believe me I've looked because that would be the easiest way to swap.

If ur gonna do a swap I would go with a 12v or a p-pumped 24v. You can still run w85 in them. The injectors for the 24v conversion to p-pump arent cheap I have heard tho. What ever you choose I would make sure it is w85 compatible. I'd give up power to keep running w85! I am hooked! Good luck with the swap.

vote for 12v due to simplicity and the fact that i now hate the vp44s due to personal reasons and failures

hey i got a buddy that i think is gettin rid of a cummins that he changed his mind on doin a swap i could let ya know about it

The VP44 pump is not the problem on the 24V's, it is the lift pump dying and then killing your VP. Check out this thread on Cummins Forum: http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/c...on/301742-1993-ford-24v-cummins-crew-cab.html
This guy bought a 24V and put it into his '93 IDI and wired it up to run with the OBD2 port as well. For simplicity sake, finding a 12V would be your best bet, but you can find 24V's for cheap all day long. The "53" block issue has been a big problem, but its like a 6.0, they are very hit and miss. I have had two friends with the 53 blocks. One chucked a rod with just a Quad ADR on his truck, while my other friend is pushing over 700 hp and has had no issues to date.

I am using a 24V for my swap because I got tired of looking for 12V's and everybody thinking that their engine with 300,000 miles is worth $2,000. I got a complete donor truck for $3,000 with a slipping transmission. Keep your eyes open, be patient, and deals will come your way.

-French

if you do go with a 24v. make sure you run lots of additive for lubrication too because they are much more prone to failures from ULSD than a P pump.

buschpoweredstroker said:

if you do go with a 24v. make sure you run lots of additive for lubrication too because they are much more prone to failures from ULSD than a P pump.

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Would 85% used motor oil suffice?

I'd personally go with a 24v or a common rail for better tuning. It gets annoying smoking everyone out with a turned up p-pump. There arnt to many wires required to make 24/cr to run and its about the same amount as a 12v to get the gauges to work right.

my votes for a 12v. My buddy just bought a 96 crew cab short bed ford and pulled the 460 out and the auto trans and tcase and swapped in a 12v and a zf5 and tcase out of a99 f250 gasser off craigs list. Adapters came from destroked. He turned the pump up just a little and has all the factory gauges working and kooked up. He is only on 33's but he gets 23mpg on trips with it. I called BS but we drove to the sand dunes with it and sure as hell he got 23.6 miles to the gallon. I was pissed as my 6leaker got a wopping 16mpg. He has a total of $4000 into the whole conversion for everything and when he sells the fuel injecte 460 and trans andtcase out of it he will have spent less. I absolutely love it and wish I still had my E99 to do the same swap.

I forgot that his was a first gen 12v. I didn't think they were that good of runners but damn that truck rows thru the gears fast. i would personally go with a second gen 12v though but the price was to cheap to turn down.