Front driveshaft rebuild.

I need to go through the double cardain front driveshaft for my dana 60 conversion. It is from a 97 truck. Does anyone have a parts list or a write up for this. Pressing out U-joints is not a problem but I am not sure exactly how that double cardian works. How about the rubber boot as this one is a little hard? I have not cleaned this one up yet to see what is what. It is too greasy to play with still.

its really not difficult, its just the same as any other u joint replacement, theres just two, the only tricky part is getting the caps on the outer joint because the centering yoke wants to push the joint outwards its a pain in the beehind but its not hard

I just took mine to a driveline shop. I didn't want to mess with it and they only charged me $30 to install the new joints.

Did mine myself. Wasn't too hard. Got the Universals from NAPA. In order to grease the special universal, you need the pointed tool. NAPA had that also.

Magnum PD said:

Did mine myself. Wasn't too hard. Got the Universals from NAPA. In order to grease the special universal, you need the pointed tool. NAPA had that also.

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:whs: thats the centering yoke mine looked like it was never greased, you need a needle attachment for your grease gun

I was hoping to track down some part numbers for the U Joints if any one has them as a starting point.

I have them on my computer I'll put them on when I'm on my computer

these are precision p/n's that can be picked up at napa or other parts stores

CENTERING YOKE PUJ 608

H YOKE PUJ 648

U JOINT AT TRANSFER CASE PUJ 354 (2) / PUJ 254 (2) NON GREASABLE

U JOINT AT AXLE PUJ 265 / PUJ 264 NON GREASABLE

also if you are going to modify your 250 driveshaft to a dc you will need the weld on yoke on the end of the shaft PUJ 638

I have been researching and found this so far for Spicer Part numbers.

Axle end of shaft one required

Greasable 5-1204X
Sealed Life Series 5-792X

Double Cardan Section of Shaft two required

Greasible 5-213X
Sealed Life Series 5-1330X

I have not gotten the parts figured out in Spicer to rebuild the centering ball or parts to replace the slip yoke boot.





I also found that Northern Drivetrain has the hard plastic seals for the life series available. Those are easy to crack so that is nice to have those separate.

I might have the boot figured out 211462X

Subscribing.

I want to know how to go about rebuilding a cardian joint. The last one I took apart, flew apart and I have yet to find the pieces and that was 3 years ago

Diesel_Brad said:

Subscribing.

I want to know how to go about rebuilding a cardian joint. The last one I took apart, flew apart and I have yet to find the pieces and that was 3 years ago

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I have never done one either. I have been looking at these links

http://www.rblewis.net/personal/bronco/driveshaft/

http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?7478-Double-Cardan-Rebuild

The rubber boot on the double cardan my donor driveshaft is fubar. The centering ball rebuild kits I have seen so far do not look like the same design. The slip joint rubber boot is in OK shape on my donor shaft.

I have a line on a OEM driveshaft that was the double cardan replacement cure for vibration on the auto transmission F-250 for a good price so I might go that way.

My regular style F-250 shaft is in great shape but I am not sure how if that is the best mix with the truck lifted with the RSK on there. I need to get some measurements on driveshaft lengths with the same set up.

Tom

it really isnt difficult at all. i wish i took pictures when i did mine. its no different than doing u joints in any other shaft except for starting the outer joint because your fighting the centering yoke thats pushing the joint out of center. the hardest part was fighting it apart but thats to be expected.

i can get you any measurements that would be helpful off of my factory 350 with stock suspension. just let me know im happy to help out

I definately could use those measurements. I made a new thread. If the part number on your shaft is still readable that would help too.

1996-95 Front w/C6 133", 137" & 168" WB AT 36 1/4" B E9TA4A376CD A20 9446
Front w/E40D 133", 137" & 168" WB AT 35 1/4" B E9TA4A376CA A20 9449
Front w/133", 137" & 168" WB MT 38 1/4" B E9TA4A376AA A20 9447
1994-89 Front w/C6 5.8 & 7.5L Eng. AT 32 3/4" B E5TZ4A376C E9TA4376DA A1 9721

Best I can determine mine is the one in red.

trying to follow all of this also, so if you are putting in a d60, you could possibly use your 250 shaft, but if you have a lift then you probably want a 350 shaft with cv, but then you have to find a 350 yoke for the t case which basically don't exist anymore. did I get all that right? LOL

I have the yoke and the shaft. The shaft needs to be rebuilt. The u-joints are still tight but I woulld replace those just because. The centering ball boot is for sure toast.

I guess the other choice is to get a shaft made up. I assume then I could have one made that does not require the yoke change.

if your running a cv shaft your still gonna need the cv yoke unless who ever you use knows more the the guy i talked to about making a shaft last year. and the cv joint isnt to bad to rebuild i just rebuilt one of mine for the first time last weekend.
like others said the outside one is a slight pain but definitely doable.

the part number is gone sorry but i got measurements

total ds length from yoke to yoke is 40.25 inches
from inner cv u joint to axle joint is 37.5 inches
from the far side of the slip joint to the axle 10.5 inches

hope thats helpful

I just got a driveshaft today. I managed to find a new OEM old stock dbl cardan joint drive shaft one brand new in the ford box. I am going to run that one unless I hit some unseen snag. Seemed like a deal for $118 shipped. I have the proper yoke so I should be good to go other then probably a new seal and some paint.

Tom, does it look just like a F350 shaft? Just that it bolts to the F250 front yolk.

It looks just like the F350 shaft, I think it is the same actually so it would need the F350 yoke. I am not at home to measure the cap size to be sure. It was from the TSB for driveshaft vibration on the F-250 which called for replacing the shaft with the F350 style one. I just got lucky with google and the part number finding one for a reasonable price.

Tom