traction bars

:shrug: I am stuck deciding between OUO and PMF traction bars, both seem like great products but I am curious as to if one would soot my truck better. I am sure both sets would work fine but was curious as to what others have had luck with.

I am running 35" tires with a 4" block in the rear and a 2.5" leveling kit in the front of my 08 CCSB. I have a H&S mini maxx with a MBRP dpf delete exhaust, not sure what tune I will run while hooked up but I am already getting plenty of axle wrap with smaller loads. The truck does the work of a tractor, mostly field to farm wagon hauling, and during crop seasons anywhere from 8 to 15 ton loads. Would either bar be better my situation or would it be down to personal preference?

OUO hands down. I have them and would buy them again and again. The engineering and fabrication of their product is top notch. Some say there is nothing to slapping a bar on the frame and attaching it to your rear axle. Well, not for me, I'd rather pay someone that gave it a little more thought than that.

If it's in your budget get the OUO traction block which has a block and the attachment point for the traction bar all in one. The block also has axle purch adjustments so you can center the wheel between the wheel wells, although at 4", you might not notice it as much as say a 6" block height.

I didn't think PMF had a traction bar only solution, just the "floating traction block".... at least I couldn't find it on their website. OUO does have a traction bar only solution that works with existing rear lift blocks.

I don't know.... I researched the he|| out of this topic. Ladder bars vs tractions bars, heim joints vs bushings, where should the bar attach to the frame - as far away as possible..... more..... I went with 6" OUO traction blocks and bars - love 'em... no binding, strong, good looking, installed just over two years now, not one problem. They hold the pinion/axle angle true (used my GoPro Camera while towing 8 tons).

I know they both have the block setup but was unsure the rougher terrain hauling loads.
The point on the setup im thinking about thats taking the beating is the upper link to the frame not sure how OUO's bushing would hold up and the same thing with the PMF shackle link. Usually pulling 4wd until im on pavement then let the truck coast hit 2wd and get back on it. just trying to make sure i make a good decision. probably just over thinking it.

Call and talk with them on the phone.

Dear 6lb 8oz baby Jesus, please don't let this turn into the 58th OUO vs PMF thread

The threads i have been reading talk about off-roading, sled pulling, drag strips, and other competition style applications, I am not trying to argue one way or the other. I have spent my time on this site for the last month reading threads in the suspension folder looking for help and am having a hard time making a decision. If you dislike my thread grab a mod and have it removed. Also there are very few diesel groups in my area so I am relying on sites like this find info.

You made that grace your bitch.

OUO. Thats what I have and I know it can take a beating. PMF on the other hand I have seen and driven in person and it does not impress me.

I have read about both but have never had the opportunity to see a set from either company first hand, probably would help a great deal if i could look at a set in person. I work in a prototype shop so i like putting my hands on parts before I determine an opinion.

Has anyone had to replace the frame attach point bushing on the OUO, and how does it hold up withe colder temps in winter. Below zero has a tendency to cause havoc with parts.

duddy said:

The threads i have been reading talk about off-roading, sled pulling, drag strips, and other competition style applications, I am not trying to argue one way or the other. I have spent my time on this site for the last month reading threads in the suspension folder looking for help and am having a hard time making a decision. If you dislike my thread grab a mod and have it removed. Also there are very few diesel groups in my area so I am relying on sites like this find info.

Click to expand...

It's not you. I understand u're wanting the best product for your money. These threads usually turn ugly.

duddy said:

I have read about both but have never had the opportunity to see a set from either company first hand, probably would help a great deal if i could look at a set in person. I work in a prototype shop so i like putting my hands on parts before I determine an opinion.

Has anyone had to replace the frame attach point bushing on the OUO, and how does it hold up withe colder temps in winter. Below zero has a tendency to cause havoc with parts.

Click to expand...

I have never heard of anyone having an issue. I would call Dave at one up Offroad or Marty at truck toyz and ask them any questions you have. They are great people to work with. They are no nonsense kinda guys.

maybe i can help shed a little light, on your apparent indecision.

each company makes a different style bar that does the same thing. because its a different style, they each have their own pro's and con's.

bear with me for a min. are you familiar with how a sway bar works? like the one mounted on your front axle? when one side goes up, it forces the other side down, and pivots/twists in the middle? if your unfamiliar with this concept, go look at your truck, and familiarize yourself with that, then come back and finish this.

ouo, uses what is called a traction bar. it is one single bar, with one single mounting point on the axel, and one single mounting point on the frame. yes the bar is gusseted up pretty, but there is one bolt holding the bar to the axle, and one bolt holding the bar to the frame.

pmf uses what is called a floating ladder bar. two bars, one single mounting point on the frame via a short "linkage" that lets it float, two mounting points on the axle.

that much you already should have known.

pro's of a ladder. from a sheer strength stand point, and the sheer ability to stop axel wrap, you cannot beat a ladder bar. that style of bar is simply the strongest available. the axel is physically not allowed to twist. i would call your attention, to ANY high hp pullers, that is a dedicated puller, not a dd/toy, and point out one that uses anything other than a ladder bar. there is a reason for that. there is also no suspension bind, as they are a floating bar.

con's of a ladder. this is where that sway bar i talked about earlier comes in. a ladder bar set up, turns your ENTIRE AXLE, into one big sway bar. if your do alot of off camber, or driving through a ditch kiddy-corner, so your frame twists, the ladder bar will do everything in its power to prevent that. it is possible that it can even twist the axle tube inside the axel housing. if your a pavement queen, this is not a concern for you. if you offroad, or my example of ditch driving applies to you, then you may want to consider something else.

pro's of a standard trac bar. these will also stop 98% of axle wrap. more on that in a minute. these allow off roading, as your axle is not a sway bar. these will allow articulation of your truck. these are generally cheaper as well. and are rarely associated with any kind of clunk of dry, or worn out parts.

con's of trac bars. in extreme cases, or improper installation, it is possible to get suspension bind. as your suspension compresses, it also pushes the rear axle towards the rear of the truck. this is normal. bind happens, when the trac bar arc, no longer allows the suspension to travel to the rear, creating a "bind", where the rear of the truck actually "sits" on the trac bar. <--this is bad.

to that 98% i mentioned earlier. if you watch you-tube, and look for ouo's video, it will show this better than i can explain it, though i will as best i can, so you know what your looking for.

under HARD acceleration, the suspension can wrap itself into a "S" shape. this is known as axle wrap. you know that a ladder bar eliminates it completely. because a trac bar has only one mouning point on the axle, it can pivot on that point. and it does. instead of pivoting around the leaf spring as the pivot and move the bottom of the axle forward, it now pivots around the trac bar bolt and pushes the top of the axle back, till the now straight spring stops it.

you watch the video, you will see that lower mounting point attached to the trac bar, does not move. this is correct, as its not supposed to. now watch the leaf spring. it loses is normal bend, and straightens itself out. you can loosely think of it as creating a 4 link from your suspension. the lower link is the trac bar, the upper link, is the now straight leaf spring. my personal issue with this, is not that it straightens out the front half of the spring, but to do that, bends the rear of the spring more.

a ladder bar setup will not un-form the leaf spring. the two mounting points, and the entire length of the bar itself, give you that "4ft cheater bar on the end of a pipe wrench" effect. in order for the axle to twist, it LITERALLY has to lift the truck up.

unless your after exotic power, a dedicated toy truck, or do alot of off cambers or my ditch example, EITHER SET UP WILL WORK FOR YOU, and should give you a long time of worry free use.

both companies have top notch customer service. both create a outstanding product. both companies simply create products that are at the top of the game. so the company itself, should not be the deciding factor. both are at the top of the game.

and as i stated, depending your planned use, would be how i personally decide what company to choose.

trevor is in the process of creating a standard bar now, to sell in addition to his ladder bar, so if your leaning towards trevor, but still on the fence, he will, in the future have both styles available to choose from.

hope this helped.

and for the rest of you, flame away. i know its coming. and no, im not a nutswinger for either company.

Tree Trimmer said:

maybe i can help shed a little light, on your apparent indecision.

each company makes a different style bar that does the same thing. because its a different style, they each have their own pro's and con's.

bear with me for a min. are you familiar with how a sway bar works? like the one mounted on your front axle? when one side goes up, it forces the other side down, and pivots/twists in the middle? if your unfamiliar with this concept, go look at your truck, and familiarize yourself with that, then come back and finish this.

ouo, uses what is called a traction bar. it is one single bar, with one single mounting point on the axel, and one single mounting point on the frame. yes the bar is gusseted up pretty, but there is one bolt holding the bar to the axle, and one bolt holding the bar to the frame.

pmf uses what is called a floating ladder bar. two bars, one single mounting point on the frame via a short "linkage" that lets it float, two mounting points on the axle.

that much you already should have known.

pro's of a ladder. from a sheer strength stand point, and the sheer ability to stop axel wrap, you cannot beat a ladder bar. that style of bar is simply the strongest available. the axel is physically not allowed to twist. i would call your attention, to ANY high hp pullers, that is a dedicated puller, not a dd/toy, and point out one that uses anything other than a ladder bar. there is a reason for that. there is also no suspension bind, as they are a floating bar.

con's of a ladder. this is where that sway bar i talked about earlier comes in. a ladder bar set up, turns your ENTIRE AXLE, into one big sway bar. if your do alot of off camber, or driving through a ditch kiddy-corner, so your frame twists, the ladder bar will do everything in its power to prevent that. it is possible that it can even twist the axle tube inside the axel housing. if your a pavement queen, this is not a concern for you. if you offroad, or my example of ditch driving applies to you, then you may want to consider something else.

pro's of a standard trac bar. these will also stop 98% of axle wrap. more on that in a minute. these allow off roading, as your axle is not a sway bar. these will allow articulation of your truck. these are generally cheaper as well. and are rarely associated with any kind of clunk of dry, or worn out parts.

con's of trac bars. in extreme cases, or improper installation, it is possible to get suspension bind. as your suspension compresses, it also pushes the rear axle towards the rear of the truck. this is normal. bind happens, when the trac bar arc, no longer allows the suspension to travel to the rear, creating a "bind", where the rear of the truck actually "sits" on the trac bar. <--this is bad.

to that 98% i mentioned earlier. if you watch you-tube, and look for ouo's video, it will show this better than i can explain it, though i will as best i can, so you know what your looking for.

under HARD acceleration, the suspension can wrap itself into a "S" shape. this is known as axle wrap. you know that a ladder bar eliminates it completely. because a trac bar has only one mouning point on the axle, it can pivot on that point. and it does. you watch the video, you will see that lower mounting point attached to the trac bar, does not move. this is correct, as its not supposed to. now watch the leaf spring. it loses is normal bend, and straightens itself out. you can loosely think of it as creating a 4 link from your suspension. the lower link is the trac bar, the upper link, is the now straight leaf spring.

a ladder bar setup will not un-form the leaf spring.

unless your after exotic power, a dedicated toy truck, or do alot of off cambers or my ditch example, either set up will work for you, and should give you a long time of worry free use.

both companies have top notch customer service. both create a outstanding product. both companies simply create products that are at the top of the game. so the company itself, should not be the deciding factor. both are at the top of the game.

and as i stated, depending your planned use, would be how i personally decide what company to choose.

trevor is in the process of creating a standard bar now, to sell in addition to his ladder bar, so if your leaning towards trevor, but still on the fence, he will, in the future have both styles available to choose from.

hope this helped.

and for the rest of you, flame away. i know its coming. and no, im not a nutswinger for either company.

Click to expand...

You just cleared some of my questions up in a hurry! Thanks!


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it should be noted, that i edited it a couple times since i posted it, as i thought of other stuff i wanted to add, or clarify.

Tree Trimmer, I don't agree with everything you mention above. For the most part you are pointing out is that these two types of bars are completely different in design. Yes they are completely different systems and I am glad you posted that.

To sum it up real quick Ladder bars affect your suspension travel otherwise they wouldn't act like a sway bar. If you want to just roll around the street, drag race, sled pull, then these are the bars for you. They will work fine. Heck some people just like that style or look for their truck. That is totall cool.

However ladder bars completely depend on that front connection to the frame. You can easily classify ladder bars into sub groups depending on that front connection. Some bars are locked in and that is usually what you see at the track, those rigs don't require any suspension travel. Other bars are "free floating" that enables the front connection to translate horizontal and vertical. As you know when that leaf spring arcs up, since there are two bolts on the axle holding the bar on, they are going to want to follow the path of the leaf spring and the pumpkin is going to rotate slightly. If that front connection doesn't match that path than it affects your travel, your spring rate, your ride, acts like a sway bar and not to mention puts some serious bending stresses into the bars. Most people don't care anyways or don't notice. But it is there. I would imagine that the leaf spring possibly is going to feel more load on the front half because the axle is locked into the path of the ladder bar. I don't know, but it is possible. Really wish someone out there would throw some go pro cameras under the truck before and after and show some footage...

The One Up Offroad style bars are different. The reason I classify them as a completely different system from anything else out there is because of that front connection at the frame. It is compressible bushing that allows the suspension to flex the way it is supposed to and the fact that it is only pinned with one bolt. This allows the pumpkin to pivot as the spring compresses. Think about that horizontal plane on the bottom of the leaf spring as it goes up and back that plane rotates. As the suspension cycles vertical and back the bars pivot and the bushing compresses. Likewise if you are going in reverse with a trailer hooked up. I imagine great pains were taken to accurately draw the suspension geometry and find out exactly the type of horizontal and vertical movements there are. Then you can figure out what kind of deformations the bushing needs to be able to take.

Honestly the only negatives about One Up Offroad bars and this system is the fact that some people don't like anything hanging down under the truck and if you don't like the pretty gussets. Otherwise you can still go offroading, you can sled pull (Look at Danny's truck), you can drag race (isn't one of the fastest powerstroke out there running OUO bars), you can pull a trailer, and you can drive your truck without your suspension being affected at all. That is why I chose these bars for my truck.

That is my soapbox... :toast:

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and if you think about what you just typed, you elaborated a little more than i did, but said the same thing.

but also as you stated, that compressable bushing in the ouo bars, is also the draw back to them as well. imo.

if it compresses when the suspension is cycling, it willl also compress under hard acceleration, whether forward or reverse. im not saying its alot, but it does.

but also as i said earlier, unless your at the extreme end of the spectrum, meaning high hp, major off roading, etc etc, none of the draw backs of either bar will really apply to you.

90% of the average customers will be able to use either bar, and not be able to tell a difference.

Tree that cleared everything up a lot thanks, I am leaning towards the OUO since alot of my land has ditch crossings and lots off rough areas from tractors.

you must not have quite understood what i was saying.

rough areas, ruts, ditch crossings, dont matter. these factors shouldnt affect choice.

think cross a normal country ditch. at a 45* angle. where your front right corner is up, and the rear left corner is up, and the last two corners are down in the bottom of the ditch.

this type of extreme articulation is the down fall of a ladder bar.

situations like that are what normal people use to help determine bar choice.

but like was said also. call both shops, tell them the use of the truck, and think of all the places you rarely go, but still go, and include them in the conversation. then pick the one you most feel comfortable with.