Need help figuring this one out.

Ok. First off this isn't my truck. This is a stock 2002 with intake, exhaust, gauges, cales tunes and srp1.

Story starts like this. Got a chip from Cale and went to install it but didn't get terminals clean enough so it didn't want to start. Got them cleaned better and it started right up. No problem.

2 days later truck dies at stop sign. Restarted just fine. No problems. Fluke?

2 weeks and a couple thousand miles later (he pulls a trailer for a living)we install an srp1. No problems there either. Started right up and idled great once the air was gone.

100 miles later it kinda acted gutless and ran funny.

100 miles it dies at a stop sign. Barely got it restarted after a LOT of cranking.

Limp it 50 miles home and it wont restart.

Ok. Now him and a shop hook a snapon scanner to it trying to read codes and start it. It took a while to build 500psi to start with the chip in. Shut it off and tried to restart. No go. Chip went in and out a dozen times without pulling the battery cables trying to get it started and the scanner was hooked up the whole time. The last time he did it the scanner wouldn't connect. Now the wait to start light wouldn't go off and the fuel pump wouldn't run.

He calls me.

I bring out my spare pmt2 (his is vdh4) pcm and spare fuel pump. I swap out fuel pump because he says they checked it with a volt meter and got 9+ volts. Still no go. No power to the pump. I swap out the pcms...... fires right up!

Its running but there is no tach, no factory trans temp gauge, glow plug light stays on, and cel is on. I pulled the codes and they're all soft. (Ebpv, keep alive, and 1 other).

Other than that it is running awesome.

Here's my questions-
I'm attributing the odd stuff going on now to different pcms. Is this right?
Fried pcm? If so is there any saving it?
Think the chip is fried too? Tried putting it back in and it wont start with it in.
What the hell started all this?????
What should my next step be to make sure this thing stays running? My idea is check for shorts on vref cable, get the pcm flashed to vdh4 at a dealer, and have the chip reburned just in case.


Help! Anyone? Thanks guys!

late 01 to E 03 used a different pcm family.. that is most likely why the dash, and the chip doesn't work...there is a place in FL that can rebuild them but I think carparts.com would be the cheapest way out..

Ok. We're going to get his old pcm reflashed at the dealer. Hopefully that works. With a bunch of digging we found other cases of almost the exact same issues. They just went and got a reflash, plugged the chip back in, and was good after that. Why did this happen? What causes it?

$95 for a reflash.

Well after them saying all is good and taking my money, I tried my supposidly reflashed pcm..no joy. Went back to ford and they said there's nothing they can do, its fried.

If anyone has a VDH4 or 5 I need one asap!

HaysKSFirefighter said:

Well after them saying all is good and taking my money, I tried my supposidly reflashed pcm..no joy. Went back to ford and they said there's nothing they can do, its fried.

If anyone has a VDH4 or 5 I need one asap!

Click to expand...

Try here.

http://www.car-part.com/

These are the numbers (bold underlined) you need for that site:

2002 VDH4 2F719S0A11 DPC-462 2C3F-DE 7.3L F-250/350 DIESEL
- AUTOMATIC 49S TNAA5S8


2002 VDH5 2F719S0A?? DPC-462 2C3F-DF 7.3L F-250/350 DIESEL
- AUTOMATIC 49S TNAA?S?

Big Bore said:

Try here.

http://www.car-part.com/

These are the numbers (bold underlined) you need for that site:

2002 VDH4 2F719S0A11 DPC-462 2C3F-DE 7.3L F-250/350 DIESEL
- AUTOMATIC 49S TNAA5S8


2002 VDH5 2F719S0A?? DPC-462 2C3F-DF 7.3L F-250/350 DIESEL
- AUTOMATIC 49S TNAA?S?

Click to expand...

I tried those on car-part. All the places in the midwest didn't have the right ones or when I called they were sold, or unable to sell them. One place had a vdh5 in stock but because they hadn't stripped the truck yet they wouldn't sell it. Come on its three friggin bolts, its not hard to get a pcm out :doh:

I guess they didn't want my money. I will try the places I couldn't get ahold of in the morning. Hoping I can find one by this weekend for the drag races vanderchevy has set up.

HaysKSFirefighter said:

I tried those on car-part. All the places in the midwest didn't have the right ones or when I called they were sold, or unable to sell them. One place had a vdh5 in stock but because they hadn't stripped the truck yet they wouldn't sell it. Come on its three friggin bolts, its not hard to get a pcm out :doh:

I guess they didn't want my money. I will try the places I couldn't get ahold of in the morning. Hoping I can find one by this weekend for the drag races vanderchevy has set up.

Click to expand...

Did you try all of the other DPC-462 models? They may not run perfectly but if you have a chip it should override any issues.

Theres a post by 3896pack in 7.3 tech at PSN under pcm codes, it's in pdf. If you scan the table for that DPC family it will give the other numbers, might be able to find one that way.

Alright I got ahold of a guy on psn and he has a vdh4 he will sell me. Good news is since I've been running around with this 01 pcm I haven't had any times where it died or acted weird...I'm thinking maybe there was something bad with my original that made that happen. Hopefully I will get my new pcm in time and my ts chip wont be fried.

On another note, my truck has been starting weird when warm, this was before the srp1 install and before pcm problems. It starts and tries to catch but hangs for a while. We managed to get a video of it tonight...has anyone run across something like this before? Been doing it for the last 7k or so but it's getting worse.

click

Nobody else has any more insight on any of this?

Are you working on the same truck as KSfirefighter? If so, my suggestion is scanning while starting for ICP, fuel pressure etc.

Yeah. Same truck. We'll do that. Thanks. Any idea on why the pcm fried?

vanderchevy18 said:

Yeah. Same truck. We'll do that. Thanks. Any idea on why the pcm fried?

Click to expand...

Removing chip with key in? oke:

Or removing it with the key off but scanner connected....When the scanner was connected and we tried starting it was very slow to make 500psi icp, I don't know why but its worse the hotter it gets

HaysKSFirefighter said:

Or removing it with the key off but scanner connected....When the scanner was connected and we tried starting it was very slow to make 500psi icp, I don't know why but its worse the hotter it gets

Click to expand...

I learned this recently. Key off, but still in ignition, means pcm has power. Key off and key out are two different things.

Two things come to mind on the slow ICP on startup, ICP sensor or IPR. ICP sensor is easy to swap.

Big Bore said:

I learned this recently. Key off, but still in ignition, means pcm has power. Key off and key out are two different things.

Click to expand...

Never heard that one before...guess I'll need to watch the keys more often when dealing with electrical stuff.

Big Bore said:

Two things come to mind on the slow ICP on startup, ICP sensor or IPR. ICP sensor is easy to swap.

Click to expand...

It has a new icp sensor from international that I got not too terribly long ago...maybe 10-15k I also put a new pigtail on it. It has a new ipr core and as of last night a new ipr sensor. Still no change. Someone mentioned fuel pressure, I will change out the fuel filter friday, I will also get it back on the scanner friday and take a video of icp and ipr% when starting.

I need to get a fuel pressure sensor asap, I have a 4 gauge pod, so I have a spot for it but it sucks now because the money I was going to use to get the gauge and trac bar ends is going towards a new pcm which will be here friday as well.

Anyone think this weird starting issue could be my cps? I know its a long shot but they are cheap and I guess it couldn't hurt to change it. I probably will this evening..it's mid 90s here and I just got home so it'll be a little toasty under the hood.

Alright I just got done changing cps, I just had a grey one on hand, I'm going to stop by the international dealer tomorrow to try and snag a blue one.

I'm hearing from many people that I could have injector o-ring issues. Truck has 262k on original sticks, is it possible when hot that the oil is thin enough that it is pushing past my oil side o-ring?

What are some other symptoms of bad o-rings?

Also, I checked my hpop oil level, I couldn't out of the inspection plug because it was seized on there, but I pulled the sensor and the oil was about an inch from the top of the resi(measured using an allan wrench through the hole, my thumb acted as a marker for the top of the resi) so it would have been like 3/4" from the bottom of the hole. Does this sound right.