Injectors & turbo??

I've read a lot on here and another site and I still don't fully understand the pairing of injectors to turbos. I want to build a dd that I tow a little with 4-5k boat and trailer. I know I'm going to need tunes and stuff for everything to reach their potential. I'm just wondering how to match injectors with turbos and possibly some good examples for reliable ""semi mild" dd. I start getting lost when I read about the 200% etc. And even more confused when I start reading about sizing on turbos like 1.00 or 1.15, the mounts t4i, t6, etc. I've never worked with turbos so its all really new to me. Thanks.

tankmech_250 said:

I've read a lot on here and another site and I still don't fully understand the pairing of injectors to turbos.

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"Pairing of injectors to turbos"- This has to do with matching these two individual components power potential and intended application.

Here's one on injectors-
http://www.dieselbombers.com/99-03-7-3l-bombs-aftermarket/47661-injector-size-related-horsepower.html#post528193

Most will categorize turbos based on compressor wheel inducer size-

60-62mm- QSSB, H2e, 38R, etc

66mm- GQSSB, modded H2e, GT40, etc

71mm- KASB, modded H2e, GT4294r/x, etc

76mm- GT4202r/x, etc

DD, towing, and Spool/transient response faster with the smaller turbos....peak HP better with the larger turbos at the sacrifice of the above characteristics.

tankmech_250 said:

I want to build a dd that I tow a little with 4-5k boat and trailer.

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http://www.powerstrokearmy.com/forums/showpost.php?p=15799&postcount=3

tankmech_250 said:

I know I'm going to need tunes and stuff for everything to reach their potential. I'm just wondering how to match injectors with turbos and possibly some good examples for reliable ""semi mild" dd.

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You want to solicit posts/experiences from folks that have run the exact combo/application your considering.

Even better yet, you want to get a ride in a rig that is configured like your considering modding for, so that the vision for your truck matches reality after you spend your hard earned cash on the parts, and bust a knuckle or two building your truck with them.

tankmech_250 said:

I start getting lost when I read about the 200% etc.

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This has to do with nozzle size on the injector, and how much they flow relative to a stock injector nozzle.

tankmech_250 said:

And even more confused when I start reading about sizing on turbos like 1.00 or 1.15, the mounts t4i, t6, etc.

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The 1.00 or 1.15 has to do with the turbine housing A/R...here's a link to read.

tankmech_250 said:

I've never worked with turbos so its all really new to me. Thanks.

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Most started knowing jack about all this...so they read, researched and got smart on it....just like you are. :thumbup:

I'm not an expert...still have lots to learn....just answering questions I had a little bit ago. Keep it fun.

Thanks for all the links I have saved them so I can reread them to ensure I understand. Now on the dieselbomber link they keep talking about singleshots but alot that I read here is about hybrid injectors. For my goal is that kind of overkill to go with hybrids or are the reasonable for a dd and something to grow into as I will most likely want to keep going once I reach my current goal.

Well one to consider is that many of the guy on this forum are at a fairly advanced level of diesel performance to the top of the ladder. What is the right choice for them might not be the same as someone wanting to do more mild improvement for power and trying to maintain good reliability. It also depends one what you are willing to spend. Once you make some decisions there and express them there are plenty of guys here that can help you.

Right now I'm looking at Swamps and for my intentions I was wondering if the 175/30% would work well with the hypermax mouting kit and h2e turbo? I think I'm SLOWLY starting to understand or am I way off?

You wont need a turbo that uses a hypermax mount if you are using the 175/30% injectors, a drop in 38r will be more than enough turbo, I'm running that right now at high altitude (9000ft and up). The power range you are looking at is well below the max for a 38r, and it's a lot less work. The 38r has done 600+hp on several trucks now. You are going to be in the 400+hp with those 175's.

BTW hybrids are a single shot injector.

38r and 600HP..hate to see the back pressure..

tankmech_250 said:

Right now I'm looking at Swamps and for my intentions I was wondering if the 175/30% would work well with the hypermax mouting kit and h2e turbo? I think I'm SLOWLY starting to understand or am I way off?

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why that combo?

Cass (Full Force) 238/100s with a 38r will make more power and be a much beter bargain, not to mention a much less hassle of a turbo instal.

OBSWIZ said:

38r and 600HP..hate to see the back pressure..

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x2 I'd keep that charger around 450-520 max

OP..what do you have, auto, miles condition, year..without knowing what you have, your goals and your budjet know one can really help.

MINK said:

why that combo?

Cass (Full Force) 238/100s with a 38r will make more power and be a much beter bargain, not to mention a much less hassle of a turbo instal.

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Not sure I was just reading on their site and was trying to see if I understood anything about this. I was reading the description of the injectors on the site and from that it seemed that was my current goal area for now and the turbo didn't seem to big. With the 238/100s they can be tuned back a little leaving room for future mods where as the 175/30s won't leave as much room for growth potential with the 38r. Or am I far off in that assumption. Thanks.

OBSWIZ said:

OP..what do you have, auto, miles condition, year..without knowing what you have, your goals and your budjet know one can really help.

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It's a 2000, auto, 178,6xx, fair condition wasn't taken real good care of by the guy I bought it from. Don't know what previous owners did but I do know injectors are stock and it use to have a tune there is a hole on the cover by drivers knee where the selector use to be. Exhaust is stock size but straight piped. I have a 6637 filter and AIH delete. My goal is to have a "semi mild" dd that I do a little towing with. I say semi mild because I want to do it all my self and learn but come up from stock in steps. I don't have a huge budget but my wife and I are putting money away during this upcoming deployment so I can work on my "project" when I get back.

How much money ya got to spend?

neverkickn said:

How much money ya got to spend?

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After the deployment I'm looking around 8k. If they give me a bonus when I re-enlist about double that. I figure thats enough to start off with I know a good transmission to handle everything is going to take up a decent chunk. But I also know I won't be able to do it all at once but would like to do turbo and injectors at the same time with tuning. Am I wrong in assuming that the stock injectors won't be able to give me full benifets of a turbo upgrade to say the 38r?

First thing, find out if you have Forged rods!.....which you should
with either combo the trans will need adresed asap, there goes 3k+

Bare minimum suporting mods will be:
Headstuds
Tripple disk converter
Upgraded valvebody

I would sugest:
Fuel system
Upgraded Hpop
Built trans including clutches and billet input
Valve springs along with Chromoly push rods

There is nothing wrong with 38r for a charger at moderate power levels.

MINK said:

First thing, find out if you have Forged rods!.....which you should
with either combo the trans will need adresed asap, there goes 3k+

Bare minimum suporting mods will be:
Headstuds
Tripple disk converter
Upgraded valvebody

I would sugest:
Fuel system
Upgraded Hpop
Built trans including clutches and billet input
Valve springs along with Chromoly push rods

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Is there an easy way to check if my rods are forged? From all my reading BTS is the way to go and thats first on my list. My wife had me start a "wish" list because I'm missing all the holidays she says. But the first things on there are a SRP1, arp studs, strictly diesel regulated kit, on that I was wondering is it even worth running an airdog with that because I have seen some people say they are using it as well.

tankmech_250 said:

Is there an easy way to check if my rods are forged? From all my reading BTS is the way to go and thats first on my list. My wife had me start a "wish" list because I'm missing all the holidays she says. But the first things on there are a SRP1, arp studs, strictly diesel regulated kit, on that I was wondering is it even worth running an airdog with that because I have seen some people say they are using it as well.

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I'd build your own fuel system before I bought an air dog, but again not needed if you're tight on cash

MINK said:

why that combo?

Cass (Full Force) 238/100s with a 38r will make more power and be a much beter bargain, not to mention a much less hassle of a turbo instal.

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You get a much better and tougher turbo out of the H2e, also get a mounting system that fixes all the bad parts of the factory system.

There really are no negatives of a H2e set up. It can be done cheaper then a 38r as well... Once you realise you can sell all the factory crap you don't need.

MINK said:

First thing, find out if you have Forged rods!.....which you should
with either combo the trans will need adresed asap, there goes 3k+

Bare minimum suporting mods will be:
Headstuds For 175/30??? come on...
Tripple disk converter
Upgraded valvebody

I would sugest:
Fuel system Not needed with 175's... not at all.
Upgraded Hpopreally? Why? Not needed...
Built trans including clutches and billet input Not needed...
Valve springs along with Chromoly push rods Not needed...

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Talk about pissing away money...

To the OP...

Whats your HP goal... Forget budget, forget all the other crap some people think you need, whats your HP goal.

Some people like to spend others money like it grows on tree's.:doh: