Cant get truck to start

bigwheel

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I just installed a new 38r in my truck and now I cant get it to start. It will crank and some time will start idea really low then die. There is a lot of white smoke that comes out. Seems like its getting fuel and oil gauge comes up. I did check for codes and there are none. These has also been the longest time the truck has sat since injector install 6 weeks ago. Any ideas of where to start looking? I did check all hoses and plugs around where I was working.
 

Tom S

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Did you have a bunch of stuff apart or just a the turbo on and off. Is the fuel pump running?
 

bigwheel

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Thanks Tom, The only offer part that I had off was the y-pipe. I check everything around that and all seems to be connected. I have not checked the fuel pump. I just figured it was running with the fuel bowl full and alot of white smoke. I will check that. What about are there any sensors that could possible not allow to start, or could injectors be bad and lost the fuel that they had?
 

Whytry

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I would start at the fuel pump like said above then check connectors on the head like icp just to see if you might have knocked it lose or broke something off.
 

ITUKMOR

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While you are looking around double check to make sure that pesky little IPR nut hasn't wiggled it's way off. Do you have a scan tool or AE to look at ICP and other vitals while cranking? This information would go a long way in the diagnosis.
 

Tom S

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When it does try to run is it running on both sides or just one bank?
 

Whytry

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Just thinking real quick maybe some of those connectors on the injectors wiggled themselves lose. Something like what tom s was saying above.
 

stroker2

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was recently told he is now seeing a p1210 code if that helps at all. Whats really odd is that it happens right when he changes a turbo. I may give him a hand and start by checking the level in the hpop resirvoir and then if all is well from there, put a screw driver across the gpr just incase its bad.
 

Tom S

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I do not thigk it would be a glowplug issue when it starts but will only idle real slow.
 

HaysKSFirefighter

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Do what these guys are saying...check the pump first, check the icp sensor, ipr nut, etc. When my pump went out I had a starting issue for a second, it died, and then I never got it started again. A good way to check if you don't have a pressure gauge, open your drain valve and turn the key to 'on' fuel should be shooting out everywhere.
 

bigwheel

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Thanks guys for the reply. I did get the truck running over the weekend. It was the injector harness on the pass said was slightly unpluged. I cant get the truck to boost over 20lbs and almost no smoke. So I am going to start checking for boost leaks, I am thinking on my MAP line. Thanks
 

Tom S

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So she did not like to run so good on just one bank. Glad you found that one.

On your other issue it is pretty easy to not get the turbo aligned with the collector to create an issue. My other suggestion is have leak detectors made for both the intake side the the exhaust side of the turbo. Easy to do with parts from the plumbing aisle.
 

ITUKMOR

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Thanks guys for the reply. I did get the truck running over the weekend. It was the injector harness on the pass said was slightly unpluged. I cant get the truck to boost over 20lbs and almost no smoke. So I am going to start checking for boost leaks, I am thinking on my MAP line. Thanks

If you had a huge boost leak you would have the exact opposite. Your truck would be fueling like crazy(cause you are calling for it with your foot) but it won't have the boost to burn the fuel and you will get lots of smoke with low boost numbers(and corresponding higher EGT's). Do you have the MAP sensor fooled somehow? If not, the condition might be caused by the PCM de-fueling you to prevent "over-boost". De-fueled = no smoke.
 

bigwheel

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I do have a boost foller in the map line now. I have it backed off right now. Are Matt's tunes able to foll the MAP? Might just have to crank it back down. My boost gauge is tied into the MAP hose and that is where I belive I might have a leak. Would that cause the truck to defuel?
 

TrailerHauler

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I do have a boost foller in the map line now. I have it backed off right now. Are Matt's tunes able to foll the MAP? Might just have to crank it back down. My boost gauge is tied into the MAP hose and that is where I belive I might have a leak. Would that cause the truck to defuel?

Matt's tunes should eliminate high boost defueling.

Also a leak in the map line wouldn't cause the truck to defuel. A boost or up pipe leak would cause the truck to run like crap, get poor mpg's, and have high egt's like already mentioned.
 

bigwheel

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I will do a leak test and see what I find. It does run like crap low boost and almost no black smoke on highest tune. I will look over the up pipes again.
 

bigwheel

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Ok so last night I looked over everything again and maid sure it was all tight and connected. Readj. the waste gate. Took the truck for a drive which it still drives the same. It takes for ever to build boost. In the highest tune it will smoke a little and drives pretty good. Hits about 25 pounds. There are no codes at this time. The thing that is throughing me off is the no smoke. When I had the stock turbo in the truck it seemed to run a lot faster and smoke alot more. Could it be that the 38r is cleaning it up that much and having the fuel sup.? Also When I bought the injectors from a guy he clamed they were 160/100. But say they are bigger could this be some simptoms? Just some thought.
 

TrailerHauler

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Matts tunes are very conservative, and on top of that the 38r can easily clean up a small stage I or II.

Maybe try to find someone close with a similar combination and ride/ drive the truck and compare it to yours?
 

neverkickn

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Checking the boot clamps and connections on the charge air path is not the same as a boost leak test. You need to build a leak detector and hook it up.
 

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