Upgraded hydraulics for ZF6 transmission

Does anyone offer upgraded hydros for the zf6? I am swappin one into the puller this winter but i am running a haisly comp puller weighted cluth and am afraid they wont hold it. I am using a wilwood master and a pull type slave on the zf5 and will build something to use a push type slave for the zf6 if i have to but bolt on is always nice.

You can get aluminum master and slave cylinders as drop in replacements from a couple of the chain parts pusher places - combine those with a stainless braided line and its a whole lot better than the crapo plastic master/slave setup that came as delivered from Ford.

Think it will push threw it though? Factory 5 spd stuff worked fine but would have no pedal at the end for like 10min.

A weighted clutch could push through anything if its weighted heavy enough - I made the plastic parts work on an Iron Giant without too many issues - the only thing I had to do was swap out that plastic line for a SS braided one and that solved a bunch of issues - not saying it was the best setup but it worked - with the aluminum pieces - I think you have a fighting chance.

God I hate this pile of sh*t Ford decided to use for clutch disengagement...

I have to buy another master/slave for the 550 right now. I guess I should just swap them out on every oil change.

:doh:

How did you do the stainless line hot rod? I have a good slave and master but the line got messed up.

The obs line is solid stainless and braided at the end. Could prob be rebent to work.

IDP said:

How did you do the stainless line hot rod? I have a good slave and master but the line got messed up.

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Its been a while - but from memory - there are fittings that go into the master and slave cylinder that are held in by roll pins - press the pins out and you get the fitting out - take the o-rings off the fitting and weld a steel JIC fitting to the fitting (I think I did a little machine work to make it a nicer cleaner connection... don't recall exactly, it could have been just as simple as drilling a hole in the JIC fitting and sliding the barb inside). Then you have a JIC fitting at each end and you can get a stainless braided hose made up to attach.

Thanks thats pretty much what i thought, didn't know if there was some super easy way I didnt think of.

On the advice of Jason, I checked with O-reilly's and Advance for a Master/Slave assembly after getting my socks knocked off by the dealer at 230+ dollars!!!

Advance had one sitting on the shelf for 138 dollars, with Master, Slave rod and bushing, with line, pre-bled.

And get this....


When I took it out of the box.... the master and slave were both cast ALUMINUM!!!!

NOT PLASTIC!!!


The clutch engages at around half pedal! Never has this been the case for any superduty I have owned. Even after specifically setting up the pressure plate to help in this area.

Wow....


Thank you Advance auto.

Charles said:

On the advice of Jason, I checked with O-reilly's and Advance for a Master/Slave assembly after getting my socks knocked off by the dealer at 230+ dollars!!!

Advance had one sitting on the shelf for 138 dollars, with Master, Slave rod and bushing, with line, pre-bled.

And get this....


When I took it out of the box.... the master and slave were both cast ALUMINUM!!!!

NOT PLASTIC!!!


The clutch engages at around half pedal! Never has this been the case for any superduty I have owned. Even after specifically setting up the pressure plate to help in this area.

Wow....


Thank you Advance auto.

Click to expand...

You have any pics of that? I was thinking, after replacing the slave on my 97 truck, that the SS would have to better then the plastic setup. I know the ones from Carquest are plastic.

co04cobra said:

You have any pics of that? I was thinking, after replacing the slave on my 97 truck, that the SS would have to better then the plastic setup. I know the ones from Carquest are plastic.

Click to expand...

It looks nearly identical to the plastic Ford pieces, but they are cast instead.

One update..... the rod that comes with it is poorly machined. There is an added step beyond the one that engages the shoulder on the clutch pedal position switch that when the pedal is depressed and the rod pushed through that switch the second shoulder goes into the switch body and gets wedged, making the switch stick to the rod and then simply ride back and forth on the rod, rendering your cruise control non-functional.

Simply using the Ford rod with the correct dimensions alleviates the issue.



On Edit:

Plastic junk on left, cast aluminum parts on right:

Do you happen to have the part numbers for the cast ones?

Seth the obs stuff from federated is aluminum w steel line. I have 2 sets. Lol i am still gonna get that trans hopefully soon.

powerstrokenstang said:

Seth the obs stuff from federated is aluminum w steel line. I have 2 sets. Lol i am still gonna get that trans hopefully soon.

Click to expand...

Yea clutch on my obs kind of engages funny after putting in the new slave. It was from carquest and Im usually not much of a fan of their parts. It could be just the DD clutch too I guess.

Anyway, just give me a few days notice to get the trans pulled for when you need it.

big_stroker said:

Do you happen to have the part numbers for the cast ones?

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It was "PF-9021" at Advance Auto.


And if you buy one and it's like the one I got, you MUST USE THE FORD ROD. Unless you want to be disassembling your new master to get the wrong rod out of it.

Charles said:

It was "PF-9021" at Advance Auto.


And if you buy one and it's like the one I got, you MUST USE THE FORD ROD. Unless you want to be disassembling your new master to get the wrong rod out of it.

Click to expand...

What year truck did you put this in? I am trying to order one but it says it doesn't match my vehicle

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

I concur with Chucks part#

SDstroker said:

I concur with Chucks part#

Click to expand...

Very nice. I got mine ordered...it'll be here tuesday. I'm going to try wrapping the line with something to keep the pressure in it until I can get some fittings together to make a braided line work.

How does it compare to the factory plastic one? How's the shifting?

this works too...
http://powerstrokearmy.com/photopost/data/500/medium/phone_pics_11-24-12_234.jpg