Caster Shims/Wedges

BBottoms

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I recently had an alignment done and everything is set in spec, however, my caster is only at 3 degrees. From everything I have read, more is better on our trucks, up to around 5 or 6 degrees, for better centering and less wandering, especially with larger tires.

The alignment shop used non-adjustable camber "cams" for the upper ball joints so no caster is being adjusted with these. I like the idea of these since they can't be knocked out of alignment or drift over time, but they obviously don't allow for any adjustment at the ball joint for caster. I would like to use shims/wedges between the axle and spring perches so that the caster is set for good and I don't have to worry about it getting changed next time I get an alignment.

I have found bronze and aluminum caster wedges, both which are advertised for OTR trucks. I know aluminum wedges are bad in the off road world when the spring flexes a lot, but is this something we have to worry about in a 1 ton truck with stiff springs and long/wide spring perches? Bronze wedges would have some flexibility that aluminum would not but they also cost 4x as much (NAPA).

Aluminum
http://www.truckcomponentsonline.com/TRUCK-CASTER-SHIMS_c_316.html

Bronze
https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/...edge&Ntk=Keyword&Nty=1&Ne=600948&N=4294019072
 

Tom S

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I found a place that sells steel wedges in what ever spec you want. I have them on my Dana 50 to tweak the cross camber. Let me figure out where they came from.

Can you post up your alignent specs and how it drives? It looks like 2.00 to 4.75 was the factory spec. I cam curious to see what your cross camber/caster is at in particular.

I take it you are not a fan of those double adjustable alighnment cams. It should be possible to change the caster with solid bushings. I will get up a picture.
 

Tom S

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Castor bushings
 

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BBottoms

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The alignment specs they wrote down were:

Camber- L: 0 R: 0
Caster- L: 3 R: 3
Toe: 1/16"

The truck has brand new (<100 miles) tires on the front. It tracks neutral (slightly left or right depending on pavement cross-slope). It has no noticeable dead zone at center but it doesn't always return to center as easy as I would expect it should. Brand new XRF ball joints (1000 miles) and all the tie rod ends are <1yr old and tight.
 

BBottoms

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Thanks for the link, I like the idea of steel better, they are just hard to find in our size.

I've seen specs that say 4.75 and 5 degrees for maximum camber (I'm guessing they just round off the one). I realize I'm within the 'spec' range, but I've seen several threads that indicate the higher, within spec, the better. I have also seen a few threads that mention going up to 6 degrees with a lift and larger tires to help with wandering or self-centering. Obviously too much Caster will wear your tires more when turning, but not enough caster, even if in "spec" may not drive as well.

Am I going at this right or should I just leave it at 3 degrees and accept that its a 17 year old truck? :flush:
 
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Tom S

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I dunno I want to take advantage of this thread as well. Maybe Cary will pop in and provide some input. I would be interested in those threads you talked about if you could cut and paste a post or two.

In any case if you look and see what degree shims are in there now I would think you could change those out to add another degree of castor pretty simply. I was able to order the solid F-250 style camber bushings at Napa before so I am assuming then have these too.

Tom
 

OBSWIZ

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Just add Castor shims at the Ball joints..specs on OBS trucks max 4.75..I'd set to that spec..I go a little more than 1/16" toe myself.
 

Tom S

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Good info, I need to make a little list of those bushings for everyone.
 

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