Auxilary Fuel tank input

I was just curious where you guys that are running auxilary fuel tanks are plumbing them into your fuel system? into the filler neck? or is there a better way? I was planning to just cut into the hose that the filler neck goes to and clamp in a small section of exhauste pipe with a -10 fitting in it that I can run to a bulkhead fitting in the bed which will then attach to the valve on the tank. Any input would be great!! Thanks!

I have a fitting welded to the metal part of the neck... IIRC it was a 1/4" NPT bung. Then I run hose up to the tank.

Gravity flow.

is this kinda what your looking for... i just ran a line to my filler vent tube and t'd it rite there then used my old sd pump and put it on a toggle switch.. put a inline filter on it but its not a high flow filter... kinda slow!!

CSIPSD said:

I have a fitting welded to the metal part of the neck... IIRC it was a 1/4" NPT bung. Then I run hose up to the tank.

Gravity flow.

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thats kinda what i was thinkin, not thinkin I was gonna weld it into the filler neck simply because I'm limpin that along, its have a few pinholes in it that have been sealed up with jb weld over the last year or so. Kinda thinkin ill just do that and when I stop off I can just open the ball valve and the -10 line will fill it pretty quick.

That would work, but I never turn my valve off. Tank just stays full. But with your filler neck I would not advise that! LOL

I dont have a pic but i have a RDS tank and gravity feed kit on mine

http://www.rdsaluminum.com/rds-parts.html

All you do is cut your filler neck hose and add their piece in the line and the piece acts like a water trough float. Once the truck tank gets full, a little ball thats in the RDS piece floats up and cuts fuel flow off.... pretty fail proof system. Ive been running if for about 75,000 miles on two different trucks.

well I pulled the neck last night and got a fitting all welded in there, also knocked the jb weld off and got the holes welded up the best i could, then applied some more jb weld over the new welds. Not the prefered method, but since the neck was rougher than Courtney Love, and ill be damned if im gonna spend what the dealer wants for one, I guess im stuck doin a little affro engineering on this one. As I say, not the best, but it will do the job, and I figured the -10 line will help to fill the tank fairly quickly when I get to a pull off or stop to pay the water bill. The kicker is that the filler neck is the rustiest part on the whole truck.

Looks fine, but I prefer to just leave the valve open, I am afraid with that large a line you will have issues with it overpowering the seals and leaking.

1/4" has worked for me and all 4 trucks I have done this mod on. My factory fuel gauge never moves, when it does I start getting worried where the next fuel stop is!!! LOL

CSIPSD said:

Looks fine, but I prefer to just leave the valve open, I am afraid with that large a line you will have issues with it overpowering the seals and leaking.

1/4" has worked for me and all 4 trucks I have done this mod on. My factory fuel gauge never moves, when it does I start getting worried where the next fuel stop is!!! LOL

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well my thoughts are that if i want less flow then i dont have to have the valve WFO, and to be honest Im only using a .5" ball valve, Im just plannin on when I stop to open the valve, fill up, and be on my way. I couldnt believe the price of a new filler neck. I would assume it comes with vaseline for the sole purpose of holding the sand on it when they throw it to ya!!

CSIPSD said:

Looks fine, but I prefer to just leave the valve open, I am afraid with that large a line you will have issues with it overpowering the seals and leaking.

1/4" has worked for me and all 4 trucks I have done this mod on. My factory fuel gauge never moves, when it does I start getting worried where the next fuel stop is!!! LOL

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mine is 1/4'' also.

Choupique108 said:

mine is 1/4'' also.

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what can i say, overkill shows up often in my builds