Started my sub box build

I got started building my sub box the other day. It is for my 12" Forsgate P3S and has right at 1 ft^3 air space. It is a sealed box. It will go behind my back seats and have a place to bolt the amp as well (the white box is my test fit amp). I got it all glued up really well. I need to sand it down and carpet it all tomorrow and get it all installed.

Looks great man wanna build me one?:thumbsup:

Nice work!! should look and sound good in there too.


Looking forward to the carpeted version too, will be a little tricky to get the whole shape covered and seal the seems but do-able. Ugh, makes me miss working with MDF to.

Looks good man, can't wait to see it installed.

Got the box all done today, now all I have to do is wire up the truck and get it put in. The sub is wired up for 1 Ohm. I don't mean to toot my own horn here, but I am pretty happy with how it turned out for having so many corners. Also please don't mind the very messy shop.

Awesome job!! You can toot that horn all you want cause that is right up there as far as a good job goes, and believe me I have seen plenty hacked together looking boxes before, at least you have a terminal cup and not wires passing through a siliconed hole, or some bolts with nuts/washers to act as a terminal cup LOL

I'm sure that carpet job wasn't easy at all.

Now get it in the truck, and make sure the wires are tucked and routed as cleanly as the box looks

Looks good man! A lot cleaner than my 2 prefab boxes and the amp laying in the floor lol

looks good man let us know how it sounds

i know nothing about amps and subs or how they work but i have seen some custom boxes that people have payed a lot of money for look way crappy compared to that one.

live life full throttle

Thanks guys, I do have one more question, with this I need to cover up both cab vents in the back will I be okay doing this? I plan on trimming them down then using some dynamat over them.

Got the box put in today.


It's all about wheel speed and torque.

I have it all wired up but not complete. It works and makes noise, defiantly needs to be tuned, which I have no idea how to do. I need to get a new fuse holder since the clips on mine broke then get all the wires cut and placed how I want most are completely hidden though. Also right now it pops about 10 sec after every thing shuts off, how do I fix this?

Looks awesome, should sound very good!

Looks like a audio shop made it :thumbsup:

Thanks guys, it is turning out really well. I got the new fuse holder ordered and it should be here in a few days. I did a little searching an a 1.5K ohm resistor should help with the pop on shutoff, but I have to order that to since the closest radio shack is 20 miles away :doh:

Ill get more pictures when I have the wiring completely done tomorrow.

Well got it all buttoned up except for waiting on the resistor and new fuse holder but it works for now. Hope I wired it clean enough for you guys. I have the power wire on the passenger side and all the others are run under the carpet and up the drivers side.

I ran the power wire up and around the amp to give everything a little color, so the fuse was easy to get ( this is where the new one will go too) and so I didn't have to criss cross the ground cable.


Got it tuned to my no existing abilities as well and I'm happy with how it sounds and hits.


It's all about wheel speed and torque.

Looks good!!

Nice older Ford in the background!

Looks good but you should have the fuse under the hood as close to the battery as possibly. The main reason for it is in-case the power wire were to somehow ground out, the fuse will blow and keep from shorting everything out. With having it by the amp, the only thing you are saving is the amp. Just my 2c

Very nice finished product. Its on my list of stuff for my truck after I get it back.

Looks great in there, and nice touches on the wiring too.

Gotta trade some form for function, but it must be a pain to tune that amp installed like that, but it certainly looks better where it is. Once it's tuned you shouldn't have to touch it again.

For the tuning, I would start with getting the sub blended in output wise by adjusting the gain by ear to where it sounds right.

Then I would leave the "infrasonic" filter off, only really needed on a ported box, or a large sealed. If you hear the sub bottoming out, or sounding slopping with really deep notes, you could flip this on to see if that clears it up.

For the "Freq hrz" knob I would start about half way up (around 100hz) and then slowly work it down to you liking, or maybe turn it up (always in small increments) to see if it helps fill in where the mid range speakers are lacking.


Tuning can be tricky mostly in a patience sense, but its nice when you finally get it dialed in. You want to make small changes, then listen, then small changes, and listen, and you don't want to change more than 1 aspect at a time either.

mudslinger02 said:

Looks good but you should have the fuse under the hood as close to the battery as possibly. The main reason for it is in-case the power wire were to somehow ground out, the fuse will blow and keep from shorting everything out. With having it by the amp, the only thing you are saving is the amp. Just my 2c

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Yup!! I forgot earlier, this amp actually doesn't have any internal fuses. So there is a fuse holder up under the hood (the one he said that the clips broke on) and then the fuse pictures above the amp. Sucks having to run a pair of external fuses like this, but better safe than sorry, 1 under the hood to protect the truck from burning up, and one by the amp to protect the amp.