intake restriction

indyF-350psd

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figured i would run this past you guys to get your opinions. currently i run a 6637 intake on the truck. i have stage 1 swamps sticks and an h2e. in my hottest tune i can get my egt gauge up to 1500 very quickly. my restriction gauge gets sucked all the way down to show "clogged" or "restricted" filter on the filter minder. i thought i read somewhere that the 6637 filter only flows 30% more than the stock setup. im kinda thinking that my filter is seriously restricting my airflow and top end performance. ive been looking at getting an afe stage 2 since its supposed to flow 200% over stock and alot of you guys run them and like them. what are your thoughts?
 

psdguy95

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Does the tymar intake really only flow 30% more? That thing will be of my truck asap if that's the case.
 

Bushwakd

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AFE Stage II with the Pro 5R oiled filter. When I have to clean the Pro 5R oiled filter I run the Pro 5R Dry filter which is a wash and dry no oil.
 

bruce

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i heard a story one time at beans that they had a truck with a tymar style filter on that had like 60k on it, it was nearly black and they ran it on the dyno then they took the filter off completely and ran it. it laid down like exactly the same both times and that was like a 400+ horse truck
 

OBSWIZ

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The Donaldson will flow enough...no problems on mine..aprox 450. Don't substitute less filtration for a few cfm..
 

Big Bore

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i heard a story one time at beans that they had a truck with a tymar style filter on that had like 60k on it, it was nearly black and they ran it on the dyno then they took the filter off completely and ran it. it laid down like exactly the same both times and that was like a 400+ horse truck

Did they take it in a dark room and put a flashlite inside? I did that once with a dirty filter and it looked like the night sky constellations.
 

vanderchevy18

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I started off with a 6637 and the riffraff filter cover. I was just being a retard one day goofing around and thought I would add airflow. I have the 6637 and cut a hole and installed one of those specter rice burner filters in the intake piping. I also left that riffraff cover off. Not much of a change but there was a small difference. Here in a couple weeks I'll go with a full 5" intake and probably an afe bigboost. Just to see if there's a difference.
 

Suns_PSD

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Even at mild boost and throttle positions I couldn't get enough air to my motor. It was effecting spool up, egts, and smoke. My restriction gauge would get bottomed out at about 1/3 - 1/2 throttle.

I built this contraption (ignore the H2 generator):



Worked like an absolute champ. Spool up felt like I had dropped a turbine housing size, picked up about 6-8psi boost and smoke was reduced. I don't even need an egt gauge any longer. My truck just doesn't get hot.

I've also done oil analysis and my silicone is really really low now. I think it's because it's sucking less hard on the individual filters and therefore ingests less dirt. I think last time, w/ about 5700 miles on the oil, my silicone was like 2 ppm and I drive on dirt roads weekly.

My restriction gauge hasn't moved in years now, since I did the mod. For the money, probably one of the best mods I've ever done. I don't know if my rig dynos any more hp, but I promise you it gets there a lot quicker.
 

Strokersace

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Does the tymar intake really only flow 30% more? That thing will be of my truck asap if that's the case.

DO NOT confuse the Tymar with the 6637. They are not the same!!!


As others have said... Tymar here with DONALDSON filter (not 6637) and over 400hp There's guys out there running Tymar's Donaldson filter making more than that with no restrictions. CaryT hit it right on the head in his post.
 

Suns_PSD

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Hey, instead of me hijacking this thread to ask, would you mind posting a thread for us here on PSA with your findings/experiments with the H2 generator?

Very mixed results. The smoke reduction was huge. The hp improvement was phenomenal. I saw little to no mpg improvements but then I drove like an ass and I found later that I had a significant fuel leak. Also my gas credit card stops at $75 so I rarely fill up making it hard to check mpg.

The only reason I removed it was because it was a maintenance nightmare. In the beginning it would work for a few weeks but in the end I couldn't make it run for more than a few days due to excessive corrosion even though everything was SS in there. And I had to constantly disassemble/ clean/ modify the unit to make it run again. I had it really pumping the H2 and drawing a lot of Amps cause that is what made the large improvements but then that boiled off the water and made it fail sooner.

In short I LOVED the smoke and power improvements and if I could get my hands on a Hydrogen system that would continue to work relatively maintenance free I'd be all over that.

I have been shopping again for a unit but I don't want to get burned (again) w/ a crap product.
 

indyF-350psd

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DO NOT confuse the Tymar with the 6637. They are not the same!!!


As others have said... Tymar here with DONALDSON filter (not 6637) and over 400hp There's guys out there running Tymar's Donaldson filter making more than that with no restrictions. CaryT hit it right on the head in his post.

maybe i assumed they were the same. i do have the tymar. i ordered it straight from him. that dual setup is pretty cool. wish i had those kind of fab skills......
 

TARM

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Tymar is a commercial intake KIT It uses a Donaldson Filter that happens to be a cross reference to the 6637. But the actual Donaldson is the best of those commercial filters. The term 6637 while a specific filter number is used to describe all the filters of that dimension and spec that all cross reference each other.

they all flow far more than 30%. The issue you have is at what H2o vacuum are you speaking about. You have to understand how the tube filters work with air flow comapred to a box filter. A box filter has air for arguments sake flowing equally across the entire filter media. The Can filter liket he 6637 start with max flow nearest the intake tube port and then decreases as you go up. As flow increases and vacuum rises so does the air flow column. Then uses more and more of the filters media. Compare that to the OEM type box filter where you are already using all the filter media surface area so vacuum rising is from over all restriction and you will have a much faster spike of vacuum.

It takes what 22 " H20 vacuum to equal just 1 psi. That should help keep things in perspective when looking at the filter minder readings.

With the Can filters the filter minder much be in the intake tube at least a few inchs back from the air filter to give proper readings. Putting one in the end of the filter will always give false low readings.
 
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