traction bar length

I got a buddy, daniel, building me some traction bars. what length is everyone using for leveled trucks? 09 350 rear block


Sent reeming out the newly rebuilt Clifford

Drop the end of a tape measure about two inches below the axle, then match the drive shaft angle, that's your length.

Sent from Prestige Worldwide headquarters!

You want to match the axle path through out its travel. Do to how are springs are mounted and how fairly flat they are, our axles travel in an arch motion when compressed, that sweeps forward slightly at full compression. Assuming your friend has stock rear springs, the bars should be as long as possible. The driveshaft has a slip joint for a reason, do not match the angle of the drive shaft or your suspension will bind.

This was discussed in another thread and in order to follow the arc of the springs the bars need to be mounted about 12' in front of the axle.

Garrett

probably getting paid at work to post this from my bionic

Big Stroker 6.4 said:

You want to match the axle path through out its travel. Do to how are springs are mounted and how fairly flat they are, our axles travel in an arch motion when compressed, that sweeps forward slightly at full compression. Assuming your friend has stock rear springs, the bars should be as long as possible. The driveshaft has a slip joint for a reason, do not match the angle of the drive shaft or your suspension will bind.

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I did it exactly like I explained and my suspension is as if they weren't on there, besides the added traction and no more able wrap. Plus I still have plenty of articulation.

Sent from Prestige Worldwide headquarters!

Subd. I'd like to know too. 08 ccsb.

In my opinion the only way to truly get rid of any binding is use a ladder bar style and a shackle at the frame.
Every truck will be different as i would think different leafs will act differently (spring weight ratings) the height of the block or if there is a block. I think there are just way to many variables to be able to say for example a ccsb should be (x) length from center eye to center eye.
Think of OUO's adjustable bars if they "had" to be a certain length they wouldnt make them adjustable... and there are bushings at each end allowing flex and movement, so make sure you have a bushing at one end and pick a length that works for your setup and run it.
Those are just my opinions atleast.

but they are also adjustable for if you change the height of your truck, correct?...

I know it's not gonna be for example 50" is gonna be end all be all for a CC/SB with a 350 block, but you can get a set measurement that'll at least vary a couple inches.. I just want something close.




Sent reeming out the newly rebuilt Clifford

Yes, i assume they are for that reason also but i think you get what i ment lol

If I were you id look around on here for people running something close to your same setup and just go off their length. Mine are 62'' and they seam to work fine so far.

that's the point of my thread. I was hoping some guys would chime in.


Sent reeming out the newly rebuilt Clifford

I prefer a longer bar, on my cc/sb I went just below the front door handles - they were long but imo rode better than a shorter bar.

powerstrokin15 said:

that's the point of my thread. I was hoping some guys would chime in.


Sent reeming out the newly rebuilt Clifford

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It would be nice to get a sticky maybe in the new fab section of cab and bed configurations and suspension setups with bar lengths and how they are acting and holding up. Then guys wanting to build a set could get a length and go off that. Also how far below the axle they mount and how far in front the axle they sit. Mine are 5.5'' below the axle centerline and roughly 3'' in front of axle centerline.

MINK said:

I prefer a longer bar, on my cc/sb I went just below the front door handles - they were long but imo rode better than a shorter bar.

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My brothers cummins had 9' bars C-C and the truck did fine he used heims on each end though and it did make them a little harsh in cab.

ford rules said:

My brothers cummins had 9' bars C-C and the truck did fine he used heims on each end though and it did make them a little harsh in cab.

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Ive always had my bars done with a standard heim joint, if you take your time on the mounts and keep everything tight they wont make any noise. That being said if you over tighten them you can have issues.

ford rules said:

Think of OUO's adjustable bars if they "had" to be a certain length they wouldnt make them adjustable... and there are bushings at each end allowing flex and movement, so make sure you have a bushing at one end and pick a length that works for your setup and run it.
Those are just my opinions atleast.

Click to expand...

powerstrokin15 said:

but they are also adjustable for if you change the height of your truck, correct?...

I know it's not gonna be for example 50" is gonna be end all be all for a CC/SB with a 350 block, but you can get a set measurement that'll at least vary a couple inches.. I just want something close.
Sent reeming out the newly rebuilt Clifford

Click to expand...

The OUO's are more of an adaptable length bar, Once you drill through both bars it's pretty much fixed length. To make them shorter or longer you would have to drill another hole through the smaller bar or build another front half of the traction bar, which is what I did when I made mine longer. On my truck it rides better with the bars longer. Also I bent the drivers side bar after the first install in a mud hole which is another reason I put forth the effort in drilling 16 more holes in the frame. It was real fun :fustrate: