puked my turbo

Well now what do I do??? This couldnt have happened at a worse time. I'm just thankful that it didnt grenade and take out the engine.

I'm not going to be doing a conversion to mount any other turbo, so I need a drop in. Stocker??? D66??? I've read about the Comp Turbo TP38 that is like the D66, but have read some bad reviews that have said that the DP mag write up was bogus.

My truck is a Cali model that has AB's splits and it has dyno'd almost 300 HP to the wheels. I'm wondering if anyone has ran the D66 with AB's or AD's with good results? I would love to mount an H2E but that is way out of the budget right now.

I know I should call Beans, but for now I would like some user experiences.
Thanks!

I've got several stockers if you need one ASAP

We have fresh stock rebuilds on the shelf ready for shipping if we can help, let us know.

Thanks!

Here is what happened. I was towing my toyhauler that is close to 10k in weight 2 days ago. While crossing the desert it was a good 105+ outside. For some reason, I could not hear the turbo while the truck was running in my heavy load tune and I could not keep the EGT's out of the red no matter what I did so I put the chip on the stock file. This was making me nervous not hearing the turbo and having killer EGT's.

I just now had a chance to look at the turbo and it appears that the compressor wheel is fine and no contact has been made with the housing. There are no exhaust leak in the up pipes and a boost leak test came up negative. Nothing is leaking anywhere that I can see.

Fresh oil change before the trip as well as a new Donaldson air filter. The truck is running like a total dog and I cant hear the turbo whistle like is always does. it is a very faint sound and I cant get over 10 PSI in stock mode and I cant hit over 20 in my race tune that always pegs my 30 PSI gauge.

My experience tells me this is a boost leak, but I cant find one. One thing that I did notice is that there is oil coming out of the compressor where the housing bolts to the back plate. Never had this before...... Hmmmmm. This is making me scratch my head.

Have you taken it off and apart?

Smut said:

Have you taken it off and apart?

Click to expand...

Not yet. I'm trying to avoid that if the turbo isnt toast. Maybe I jumped the gun saying it puked, but since I cant find a boost leak it might be... I'm stumped.:doh:

Check your map line and map sensor also check to make sure your EBPV is malfunctioning

I was wondering if it had a seal leaking or a hole in it. Because you said oil out of the compressor seal. On the note of boost leak. Have you checked the exhaust side or just the air side? If you had an exhaust leak it would be easy to spot so im sure you'd know. If you cant find a leak and you check the map lines and sensor. I'd take the charger off. It's not to hard is it? Cant be any worse than a 6.0 haha.

yea i would say check the ebpv like paul said first

Good idea on the ebpv. I'll check that tomorrow. As for the leaking housing, should I tighten it down? What should it be torqued to?

Smut said:

I was wondering if it had a seal leaking or a hole in it. Because you said oil out of the compressor seal. On the note of boost leak. Have you checked the exhaust side or just the air side? If you had an exhaust leak it would be easy to spot so im sure you'd know. If you cant find a leak and you check the map lines and sensor. I'd take the charger off. It's not to hard is it? Cant be any worse than a 6.0 haha.

Click to expand...

An obs turbo is a royal pita to take off. I can take a 6.0 turbo off in less than a half an hour and could get the turbo off my super duty 7.3 in less than a half an hour. The last obs I pulled the turbo off took me 3 or 4 hours.

1/4"drive swivel socket and extension for the rear base bolts and a cut in half combo wrench for the bottom exhaust inlet bolts make the OBS turbo come off easily. The cut down combo wrench just has to be tapped with a small hammer to loosen the big bolts on the flange. When replacing the rear base bolts tape them with electrical tape and leave a long "ribbon" hanging off and preplace them on the turbo base. This keeps the bolts in place in the bolt holes and spacing them above the bottom of the turbo base flange and keeping the bolts from knocking the o-rings off. After setting the turbo in place, pull off the tape and use the swivel socket/extension to retorque the bolts.

I use a either a long handle 1/4" drive ratchet wrench (HD Snap-On) and 1/4" drive swivel socket/medium length extension or the 1/4" drive swivel socket, 3/8"drive adaptor and extension and 3/8" ratchet.

The small hammer and cut down extension for the lower exhaust inlet flange bolts (the bigger ones) works well. When my buddy showed me how to do this, I couldn't believe how easy they came off.

Maybe 40 minutes to pull the turbo once you have the engine cover off.

Matt, how are you making out on this?

old man dave said:

1/4"drive swivel socket and extension for the rear base bolts and a cut in half combo wrench for the bottom exhaust inlet bolts make the OBS turbo come off easily. The cut down combo wrench just has to be tapped with a small hammer to loosen the big bolts on the flange. When replacing the rear base bolts tape them with electrical tape and leave a long "ribbon" hanging off and preplace them on the turbo base. This keeps the bolts in place in the bolt holes and spacing them above the bottom of the turbo base flange and keeping the bolts from knocking the o-rings off. After setting the turbo in place, pull off the tape and use the swivel socket/extension to retorque the bolts.

I use a either a long handle 1/4" drive ratchet wrench (HD Snap-On) and 1/4" drive swivel socket/medium length extension or the 1/4" drive swivel socket, 3/8"drive adaptor and extension and 3/8" ratchet.

The small hammer and cut down extension for the lower exhaust inlet flange bolts (the bigger ones) works well. When my buddy showed me how to do this, I couldn't believe how easy they came off.

Maybe 40 minutes to pull the turbo once you have the engine cover off.

Click to expand...

Buncha good tricks in there.

Tom S said:

Matt, how are you making out on this?

Click to expand...

I've been swamped and cant get to it until later today, maybe tomorrow. Hope it's something easily fixed.

old man dave said:

1/4"drive swivel socket and extension for the rear base bolts and a cut in half combo wrench for the bottom exhaust inlet bolts make the OBS turbo come off easily. The cut down combo wrench just has to be tapped with a small hammer to loosen the big bolts on the flange. When replacing the rear base bolts tape them with electrical tape and leave a long "ribbon" hanging off and preplace them on the turbo base. This keeps the bolts in place in the bolt holes and spacing them above the bottom of the turbo base flange and keeping the bolts from knocking the o-rings off. After setting the turbo in place, pull off the tape and use the swivel socket/extension to retorque the bolts.

I use a either a long handle 1/4" drive ratchet wrench (HD Snap-On) and 1/4" drive swivel socket/medium length extension or the 1/4" drive swivel socket, 3/8"drive adaptor and extension and 3/8" ratchet.

The small hammer and cut down extension for the lower exhaust inlet flange bolts (the bigger ones) works well. When my buddy showed me how to do this, I couldn't believe how easy they came off.

Maybe 40 minutes to pull the turbo once you have the engine cover off.

Click to expand...

Nice info!