Reg Return vs. Crossover

BlueWaffle

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Trying to decide between the two. I do need to add to my fuel system but not sure if a full reg return is necessary. I have a fass 150 but I took out the internal check ball and spring and added an external regulator and have it set to 60ish psi. i'd like to eliminate the deadhead so can I do that with just a crossover instead of a full RR system?
 

Mdub707

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Correct, if you want to, do you think you need to though? It's a good piece of mind I suppose. My vegistroke basically does the same thing so when I'm running on diesel it acts like a x-over. It won't hurt anything I suppose. I wouldn't add another regulator if you're already regulating at the pump, JMO.
 

Cutting-Edge Diesel

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well the crossover line will not eliminate the dead head system because it does not a have return on it. I have heard of someone doing it to monitor FP at the back of the heads. That would be a way to know if your back injectors are getting the FP they need.
 

motoxracer42

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ive heard that if you bypass the regulator on the fass that it will also bypass the water separator. maybe shawn will chime in on it cause ive never messed with my fass. other than that like cutting edge said the crossover will not fix the dead head. i like regulated returns.
 

FaSSt9602

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If you have a FASS or Airdog, and worried about double regulating, what about a fixed orifice return? It will allow a little fuel to return back so you don't have the dead head...mine uses a aluminum block with a small orifice hole in it, but the same could be accomplished with a ball valve that you leave cracked open.

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Mwilbur516

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Do the heads have to be pulled to install a regulated return or crossover? Don't mean to sound ignorant on this (but if the shoe fits). I already did the studs and really don't want to pull the heads unless there is another issue, but I would also like to add to my fuel system as my needs grow.
 

FaSSt9602

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No, there are plugs on each side of the head that come out and you can either run banjos or 90 fittings up the back of the engine. You will wish that you had done it when you pulled the heads when you do it! There isn't much room back there because of the up-pipe and DP...
 

Mdub707

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Why is everyone wanting to get rid of the dead head system anyways? The whole point of the x-over line is to just equalize the pressure in the heads, not get rid of the dead head system. Why regulate it again, if it's already regulated at the pump, seems silly to me.

Personally, an AD2, a fuel pressure gauge, and 6.4 banjos and I'd call it good for a 6.0 fuel system. If you want to add the x-over you could, it certainly wouldn't hurt anything. I like the idea of reading fuel pressure at the x-over. Basically what I'm doing now with my vegistroke.
 

Cutting-Edge Diesel

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It is to keep the fuel flowing and the pressure all the way to the back injectors. The crossover line will "equalize" the pressure between the heads but not between the pump and the back of the heads. Now I have no idea if the back injectors are infact being starved for fuel but I have 4k in injectors and I don't want to save a few hundred bucks skipping on the fuel system. Mine doesn't have 2 regulators. It is regulated at the pump and then has a fuel block (just like the one posted earlyer) just my .02
 

Mdub707

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It is to keep the fuel flowing and the pressure all the way to the back injectors. The crossover line will "equalize" the pressure between the heads but not between the pump and the back of the heads. Now I have no idea if the back injectors are infact being starved for fuel but I have 4k in injectors and I don't want to save a few hundred bucks skipping on the fuel system. Mine doesn't have 2 regulators. It is regulated at the pump and then has a fuel block (just like the one posted earlyer) just my .02

It just doesn't make any sense to me. The ports in the heads run past the last injectors anyways. So if your pump can hold 60psi in the heads, how would one injector starve over the other? If pressure was dropping hard when you accelerate I would agree, but as long as a pump can keep a specific volume (your heads) at 55psi, no matter how much is draining out (ie, your injectors using fuel) then what difference does it make where or how it's regulated, as long as it is? The AD2 can be regulated at the pump, so if you've already got that, I see no need for a regulator up at the heads like the ITP setup. I'm not saying it's a bad thing to have, and not faulting it at all, but I know if I already had a RR pump, I wouldn't be worrying about adding another at the back of the heads.

All boils down to having a fuel pressure gauge and knowing if your truck needs more fuel or not. As long as pressure is there, you should be good. No?
 

Strictly Diesel

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My thoughts...for what they are worth.

1. I've seen too many of the "Filter/Pumps" (not naming names, but both brands) that didn't make enough pressure for a Ford to begin with. Some can be turned up, some require new springs and I've seen both die a premature death when asked to run at 7.3L/6.0L pressures for any length of time. I won't sell a high pressure unit to any customer right now because I will not tolerate another angry call from a stranded customer.

2. I've also seen pressure issues with these units because the pressure is being regulated 6-10 "hose feet" before the all of the pressure drop and demand (55psi at the pump does not equal 55psi at the injectors). You will have pressure drop across fittings, through any filters and in the cylinder heads (particularly as the tuning drives power up and the injectors are asked to put more fuel into the engine).

3. Having the PRIMARY fuel pressure regulator for the system AFTER all of this ensures that whatever pressure it is that you want actually exists all the way through the system (assuming your pump is moving enough volume to support all of the demand).

4. Having 2 pressure regulators in the system sucks. In the case of the "filter/pumps", the pressure needs to be dialed up high enough that the regulator at the engine is actually controlling the overall system pressure.

5. I personally hate the high pressure "filter/pumps". I've been around the fuel system stuff for a while now and while I'm sure that there are people with degrees and smarts that exceed my level of understanding...I have learned a few things and have a pretty good grasp on the situation. From my discussions with the patent holder for the "filter/pumps" and my personal studying of how they work, I will take a LOW PRESSURE unit feeding a second fuel pump EVERY SINGLE TIME. The air removal will be better at 10psi than it will be at 55psi+. The load on the pump motor will be lower, the heat generated will be lower, the amp draw will be lower, the motor will be quieter and on and on and on.

6. Yes, with my preferred setup you have to have 2 pumps...considering the NON-OEM level of reliability of ALL of the "aftermarket" fuel pumps that are available for these trucks, I personally like the insurance of having a second pump in the system in case one of my pumps experiences a problem. This is how my race truck is plumbed and how my daily driver will be plumbed when I get around to installing my "filter/pump" on it.

7. I take issue with the "filter/pump" companies calling their products "fuel systems". They are pumps, with integral filters...and now with fuel pressure regulators. They do nothing for the flow through the stock fuel lines, nothing for fuel pressure regulation that accounts for all of the drop and demand in the system...they are just pumps.

Those are my 2 cents...if they are even worth that much. I'm sure that the "filter/pump" guys will disagree with me, and I'm sure some of you will as well.
 

Mdub707

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My thoughts...for what they are worth.

1. I've seen too many of the "Filter/Pumps" (not naming names, but both brands) that didn't make enough pressure for a Ford to begin with. Some can be turned up, some require new springs and I've seen both die a premature death when asked to run at 7.3L/6.0L pressures for any length of time. I won't sell a high pressure unit to any customer right now because I will not tolerate another angry call from a stranded customer.

2. I've also seen pressure issues with these units because the pressure is being regulated 6-10 "hose feet" before the all of the pressure drop and demand (55psi at the pump does not equal 55psi at the injectors). You will have pressure drop across fittings, through any filters and in the cylinder heads (particularly as the tuning drives power up and the injectors are asked to put more fuel into the engine).

3. Having the PRIMARY fuel pressure regulator for the system AFTER all of this ensures that whatever pressure it is that you want actually exists all the way through the system (assuming your pump is moving enough volume to support all of the demand).

4. Having 2 pressure regulators in the system sucks. In the case of the "filter/pumps", the pressure needs to be dialed up high enough that the regulator at the engine is actually controlling the overall system pressure.

5. I personally hate the high pressure "filter/pumps". I've been around the fuel system stuff for a while now and while I'm sure that there are people with degrees and smarts that exceed my level of understanding...I have learned a few things and have a pretty good grasp on the situation. From my discussions with the patent holder for the "filter/pumps" and my personal studying of how they work, I will take a LOW PRESSURE unit feeding a second fuel pump EVERY SINGLE TIME. The air removal will be better at 10psi than it will be at 55psi+. The load on the pump motor will be lower, the heat generated will be lower, the amp draw will be lower, the motor will be quieter and on and on and on.

6. Yes, with my preferred setup you have to have 2 pumps...considering the NON-OEM level of reliability of ALL of the "aftermarket" fuel pumps that are available for these trucks, I personally like the insurance of having a second pump in the system in case one of my pumps experiences a problem. This is how my race truck is plumbed and how my daily driver will be plumbed when I get around to installing my "filter/pump" on it.

7. I take issue with the "filter/pump" companies calling their products "fuel systems". They are pumps, with integral filters...and now with fuel pressure regulators. They do nothing for the flow through the stock fuel lines, nothing for fuel pressure regulation that accounts for all of the drop and demand in the system...they are just pumps.

Those are my 2 cents...if they are even worth that much. I'm sure that the "filter/pump" guys will disagree with me, and I'm sure some of you will as well.

Thanks for the post. I can't disagree with anything you said. Everytime I recommend an AD2, I ALWAYS recommend a fuel pressure gauge to go with it. In fact it's the first thing I usually recommend to any 6.0 owner, which should help alleviate that 6-xx feet of hose pressure drop, somewhat.

A couple questions for you now. What would you recommend for a pump setup? A low pressure FASS feeding a....? Stock pump? Some other aftermarket high pressure unit? Also where would you recommend reading fuel pressure, behind the heads? Easily done with a x-over. I read my pressure behind the heads on the V3 block of my vegistroke.

Some people don't understand that static fuel pressure does not always equal dynamic fuel pressure... just food for thought.

Interested to hear your thoughts and recommendations. :toast:
 

Strictly Diesel

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A couple questions for you now. What would you recommend for a pump setup? A low pressure FASS feeding a....? Stock pump? Some other aftermarket high pressure unit?
Those basically equate to the million dollar question right now. This is a sore subject with me because so many people want to have 500, 600, 700+hp "daily drivers" any more. I like a low pressure "filter/pump" (either brand) feeding a pump that is appropriate for the modifications. Up to about 190s, a stock pump should be fine (depending on the condition of the pump, the particular set of injectors, the aggressiveness of the tuning, the use of the truck, etc). After that, it's common to need more volume. Which way you go depends on your concern for reliability. I love the Fuelab pumps, but I will not tell a customer that they will be OE level reliability from one (or an Aeromotive, or an SX, etc). This is where we run into issues though...customers that want to install "race car parts" and want the big power and still think the truck should be OE reliable. I've been doing more and more looking for pump options lately because I'm dissatisfied with the high pressure "filter/pumps" but my "OE reliability high hp" customers want something I can somewhat guarantee...it's very frustrating. I've got a project in the works that may be the solution...but the debate will be whether customers think it's worth the cost.

Also where would you recommend reading fuel pressure, behind the heads?
Always after the heads, after the pressure drop and the demand for sure.
 

BlueWaffle

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My thoughts...for what they are worth.

1. I've seen too many of the "Filter/Pumps" (not naming names, but both brands) that didn't make enough pressure for a Ford to begin with. Some can be turned up, some require new springs and I've seen both die a premature death when asked to run at 7.3L/6.0L pressures for any length of time. I won't sell a high pressure unit to any customer right now because I will not tolerate another angry call from a stranded customer.

2. I've also seen pressure issues with these units because the pressure is being regulated 6-10 "hose feet" before the all of the pressure drop and demand (55psi at the pump does not equal 55psi at the injectors). You will have pressure drop across fittings, through any filters and in the cylinder heads (particularly as the tuning drives power up and the injectors are asked to put more fuel into the engine).

3. Having the PRIMARY fuel pressure regulator for the system AFTER all of this ensures that whatever pressure it is that you want actually exists all the way through the system (assuming your pump is moving enough volume to support all of the demand).

4. Having 2 pressure regulators in the system sucks. In the case of the "filter/pumps", the pressure needs to be dialed up high enough that the regulator at the engine is actually controlling the overall system pressure.

5. I personally hate the high pressure "filter/pumps". I've been around the fuel system stuff for a while now and while I'm sure that there are people with degrees and smarts that exceed my level of understanding...I have learned a few things and have a pretty good grasp on the situation. From my discussions with the patent holder for the "filter/pumps" and my personal studying of how they work, I will take a LOW PRESSURE unit feeding a second fuel pump EVERY SINGLE TIME. The air removal will be better at 10psi than it will be at 55psi+. The load on the pump motor will be lower, the heat generated will be lower, the amp draw will be lower, the motor will be quieter and on and on and on.

6. Yes, with my preferred setup you have to have 2 pumps...considering the NON-OEM level of reliability of ALL of the "aftermarket" fuel pumps that are available for these trucks, I personally like the insurance of having a second pump in the system in case one of my pumps experiences a problem. This is how my race truck is plumbed and how my daily driver will be plumbed when I get around to installing my "filter/pump" on it.

7. I take issue with the "filter/pump" companies calling their products "fuel systems". They are pumps, with integral filters...and now with fuel pressure regulators. They do nothing for the flow through the stock fuel lines, nothing for fuel pressure regulation that accounts for all of the drop and demand in the system...they are just pumps.

Those are my 2 cents...if they are even worth that much. I'm sure that the "filter/pump" guys will disagree with me, and I'm sure some of you will as well.

so i take it you're for the Reg Return....
 

Mdub707

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Those basically equate to the million dollar question right now. This is a sore subject with me because so many people want to have 500, 600, 700+hp "daily drivers" any more. I like a low pressure "filter/pump" (either brand) feeding a pump that is appropriate for the modifications. Up to about 190s, a stock pump should be fine (depending on the condition of the pump, the particular set of injectors, the aggressiveness of the tuning, the use of the truck, etc). After that, it's common to need more volume. Which way you go depends on your concern for reliability. I love the Fuelab pumps, but I will not tell a customer that they will be OE level reliability from one (or an Aeromotive, or an SX, etc). This is where we run into issues though...customers that want to install "race car parts" and want the big power and still think the truck should be OE reliable. I've been doing more and more looking for pump options lately because I'm dissatisfied with the high pressure "filter/pumps" but my "OE reliability high hp" customers want something I can somewhat guarantee...it's very frustrating. I've got a project in the works that may be the solution...but the debate will be whether customers think it's worth the cost.


Always after the heads, after the pressure drop and the demand for sure.

Ok great, so explain my current situation to me. I'm reading fuel pressure behind the heads, with an Isspro EV2 fuel pressure gauge. I'm using a brand spanking new OEM ford fuel pump, the OLD style fuel filters without the o-ring setup for the filter on the fuel rail, the updated FPR spring in the fuel housing, and I can't seem to maintain any amount of usable fuel pressure with stock injectors and mild tunes according to my fuel pressure gauge. Any thoughts? There are no leaks in this system. I'm seeing over 60psi at idle, actually closer to 67psi at idle. With even a mild street tune I can drain fuel pressure to 25psi or less with quick burps, so what would you recommend? I have a buddy with the exact same setup, except he's using an AD2, running lines right from that to the heads bypassing the factory bowl and his readings behind the heads match mine. Your thoughts on this? I've been chasing this down for quite some time and can't seem to figure it out. Again, boiling down to dynamic vs. static fuel pressure. I can't help but wonder how much my readings would differ up at the fuel bowl vs. way back behind the heads...


so i take it you're for the Reg Return....

strictly diesel... formerly ITP, who makes and sells the ITP regulated return. Nice unit.
 

hawgdoctor

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I always try to use the ad 150 WITH the stock pump that way you always have a back up if either one fails. Do this with a RR, and you can monitor your pressure before, and after the regulator. Just use a regular gauge on the fuel bowl to set the regulator, and use an in cab to fine tune it. Then you will also be able to tell more of what your demand is too. Have set a couple up thus way in stock trim, and with sticks. Works just fine, and even at full throttle psi doesn't budge once it's set.
 

Strictly Diesel

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Ok great, so explain my current situation to me. I'm reading fuel pressure behind the heads, with an Isspro EV2 fuel pressure gauge. I'm using a brand spanking new OEM ford fuel pump, the OLD style fuel filters without the o-ring setup for the filter on the fuel rail, the updated FPR spring in the fuel housing, and I can't seem to maintain any amount of usable fuel pressure with stock injectors and mild tunes according to my fuel pressure gauge. Any thoughts? There are no leaks in this system. I'm seeing over 60psi at idle, actually closer to 67psi at idle. With even a mild street tune I can drain fuel pressure to 25psi or less with quick burps, so what would you recommend? I have a buddy with the exact same setup, except he's using an AD2, running lines right from that to the heads bypassing the factory bowl and his readings behind the heads match mine. Your thoughts on this? I've been chasing this down for quite some time and can't seem to figure it out. Again, boiling down to dynamic vs. static fuel pressure. I can't help but wonder how much my readings would differ up at the fuel bowl vs. way back behind the heads...
I'm sure your readings at the filter bowl would be different. If you read off the filter bowl, you are measuring "pre-filter", "pre-front fuel lines and banjos" and "pre-demand (injectors)".

Before I built my very first fuel system for the 6.0L, waayyyyy back when the Edge Juice w/Attitude was "the $hit" for the 6.0L, I had similar problems. Good stock fuel pump, stock injectors, EJw/A...20-30psi of pressure drop when I would get on it hard. You have to admit, the EJw/A was not exactly up to todays SCT tuning, I'm sure that just about any mild to moderate "street" tune today would obliterate that old tuner...but the point is the same either way. The stock fuel pressure management setup and stock fuel lines are inadequate.

After building the first prototype fuel system and installing it, the pressure drop issue went from 20-30psi to ZERO DROP. That same fuel system, with the help of an AirDog FP-100 low pressure unit, was left installed in the truck through numerous power upgrade iterations. While I was never extreme with that truck because it was a daily driver and tow rig, not a racer, it did get upgraded injectors, SCT tuning, several different aftermarket turbos, etc. In all of the time I owned and drove that truck...after installing the regulated return kit, the most pressure drop I ever saw was about 1-3psi when filters started getting dirty. Pressure was monitored at the fuel pressure regulator, which was of course located AFTER the fuel rails where it could do the best job. This same fuel system design has been used by a ton of direct customers and also other shops that purchase my product, and the only time we see pressure problems are when the pump has an issue, the pump is too small for the injectors or when there was something messed up during the installation.

Consider this, a regulator is a "drain" on the pressure side of the fuel system. If your filter/pump has a regulator, that's a drain (the fuel is not going to the engine). You also have a drain in your filter bowl (with a stock style regulator) or after the heads if you have a regulated return. Your injectors are all "drains" as well (they are removing pressurized fuel from the rail). Keeping pressure up is a matter of properly managing all of the drains. The fuel pump needs to move enough fuel to properly supply the 8 most important drains (the injectors). If the pump volume exactly matches the fuel usage of the injectors at their highest demand, there should be no fuel returning to the tank and the pressure would be 0psi...so you obviously need enough volume to exceed the injectors usage in order to have pressure in the rail. Assuming we have enough volume to more than supply the demand of the injectors, the next issue becomes the next weakest drain in the system. In my opinion, you should not have a drain in the pressure side of the fuel system that is located BEFORE the demand. Whether the spring pressure of the regulator is higher than stock or not, it just creates problems. The stock fuel pressure regulator setup, even with a stiffer spring, is notorious for doing exactly what you are describing. In the case of your friend with the filter/pump, he's got a drain located way back by the tank, not to mention the fact that he's running a device I've had specific problems with and refuse to sell until (if) they fix it.

Maybe I need to take some pictures of the differences between the stock fuel pressure regulator setup and a "real" pressure regulator. Ford is asking a tiny little spring and poppet valve to adequately do a job that is better performed by a much larger device. The stock spring is about 1/8" in diameter and about 1" long (not measuring one, just from memory)...the spring in a Fuelab or Aeromotive pressure regulator is about 1-1.5" in diameter and about 1-1.5" long. The difference is significant, and the aftermarket regulators are simply not going to allow pressure to bleed off when its not supposed to. Couple that with placing the regulator AFTER all of the pressure drop and all of the demand and you have a setup that will properly manage your fuel system pressure.

As I said before, I'm sure there are some that will argue with me on this. In my opinion, any modifications to the stock fuel pressure regulator (stiffer springs, shims, etc) are "bandaid" attempts to fix a design problem. I also believe that crossover lines are bandaids as well, they don't address the pressure regulator issue and since the system is still "closed" they don't do anything about actual flow...they are simply a "balance tube".

strictly diesel... formerly ITP, who makes and sells the ITP regulated return. Nice unit.
Mostly correct...and thanks!

We don't (though some customers still might) call it an "ITP" fuel system any longer. All of our manufacturing is done under the "Driven Diesel" name now. Strictly Diesel is our "retail" operation, Driven Diesel is our manufacturing and wholesale operation (no direct consumer sales). This allows our dealers to stock and sell our product without having items on their shelf with the name of a retail competitor.
 

strokin6L

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Dennis at Strictly Diesel helped me with my fuel system a couple years ago and it has been awesome. I was running my low pressure FASS system with the stock pump and a regulated return. I wanted to get rid of my stock pump but wanted to keep my low pressure FASS instead of having to get rid of it and getting a high pressure one. Dennis said i can still run my low pressure FASS and just replace the stock pump with a Fuelab pump which was setup by him. This two pump setup has been working great Dennis....thanks again man!
 

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