Transmission issue

genuineford

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I am having an issue with the trans in my 93 F350 with a 460 in it. It has an E4OD trans in it and if you are getting on it at 1/2 throttle or more when it goes to make the 2-3 shift it will not shift into 3rd with out letting off. If you let off of it it will make the shift fine or if you do not use a lot of throttle it shifts fine. Once it gets into 3rd is pulls fine and does not slip. The torque converter also locks up fine. Other than that the trans works fine. Does anyone know if this could be a solenoid or what it might be. I really do not want to have to drop the coin on a rebuild right now. I also just changed the trans fluid before this all started happening. The fluid level is fine and does not smell burnt. Any help would be appreciated.
 

Tom S

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PM Racer X maybe he can help or maybe he will spot this thread.
 

genuineford

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Will do Tom. I did a little reading and it is not looking good. The truck is shifting hard and that seems to be one of the simptoms of the trans on the way out. I AK still going to do a little more research bit I have a feeling I will be looking for a trans or getting a rebuild.
 

Chrisf97305

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Mine does the same thing when i stand on it in 2x4. But when I drag race in 4x4 it shift just fine. I was told that I was blowing thought the torque converter. Don't know any more that that. For me its one of those things that I learn to live with. You may be able to take it out with a good tune also. Its something to look into.
 

Racer X

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I am having an issue with the trans in my 93 F350 with a 460 in it. It has an E4OD trans in it and if you are getting on it at 1/2 throttle or more when it goes to make the 2-3 shift it will not shift into 3rd with out letting off. If you let off of it it will make the shift fine or if you do not use a lot of throttle it shifts fine. Once it gets into 3rd is pulls fine and does not slip. The torque converter also locks up fine. Other than that the trans works fine. Does anyone know if this could be a solenoid or what it might be. I really do not want to have to drop the coin on a rebuild right now. I also just changed the trans fluid before this all started happening. The fluid level is fine and does not smell burnt. Any help would be appreciated.

Some possibles are: loose bolts, a sticky valve, broken spring, worn rings or seals. Sometimes a solenoid will stick and not set a code. The solenoid pack is electronically controlled but it's controlling the mechanical parts inside of it. It won't always set a code if the electronic part itself is working but the mechanical part is partially sticking. That's uncommon but can happen.

Is reverse working normally? Is there any delayed engagement when you put it reverse? How did the old fluid look when it was changed?

`
 

Tom S

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Are you talking about those hollow bolts in the valve body?
 

blackbetty13

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I had this same problem. I was dealing with a hole in the wall company however. The first time they told me it was my valve body, the second time it was my center support. Also does it downshift to early as soon as you brake.
 

Racer X

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Reverse is working fine and it engages into gear right away. Fluid looked good when I changed it.

Ok. How we would diagnosis this would be to plug an expensive transmission tester in. :D

Without one, if you haven't already done it: check for external problems and make sure the OD light is working. If OK, then I'd drive it until it reaches normal operating temperature. Then see if it slips at all under more throttle when it won't shift into 3. I'd only do that once. :)

If your not feeling any slipping when it won't shift into 3, or in other gear ranges and no codes are present: a valve problem is the most likely cause from the info in your thread.

.
 

genuineford

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The trans does not slip when it is in 3rd and the OD light is working.

Where would I go about looking in the trans for a valve problem? Is this something I can get to by pulling the pan off or is it going to require me pulling the trans out?
 

Racer X

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The trans does not slip when it is in 3rd and the OD light is working.

Where would I go about looking in the trans for a valve problem? Is this something I can get to by pulling the pan off or is it going to require me pulling the trans out?

Steve,
You wouldn't see a valve problem if you did disassemble the entire transmission. This problem only occurs when the transmissions entire hydraulic system is fully pressurized, and you're driving. Otherwise, you would have problems in other gear ranges. Didn't see a miles per hour or r.p.m. range posted, but you'd have more than 150 p.s.i. of fluid pressure in gear 2 when it occurs. There is zero pressure when a professional like myself or anyone drops a pan.

It would be nice if transmissions and hydraulics weren't specialty fields and you could work on them easily without needing a 4 year degree from a College or University and 2 years work study as an intern. That level of education and experience is what a potential stock rebuilder needs to begin a career working for a top notch shop that has all the special test equipment and special service tools on hand. That is the minimum skill level just for beginning stock transmission repairs or rebuilding for stock only vehicles.

What stock transmissions are just in mechanical components can be compared to the intricacy of the finest mechanical watches money can buy. Unlike fine watches these transmissions are 27 inches of intricacy excluding the tail section, and contain more than 220 individual parts which must all work perfectly simultaneously via properly pressurized fluid.

Most of us don't drive stock trucks and need full custom built transmissions like this:

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e4od4x4.png

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Full Custom rebuilders are very rare and in an extremely highly specialized field.

Transmissions are complex. I can't always spend time posting instead of working, so I summerized likely causes in your thread quickly. Then gave you an educated guess from a keyboard without ever inspecting and testing your transmission. It was based on what info was posted only. Any modifications you have would be unknown factors also. There are more causes than my time permitted to post. Plus minimum skills, tech knowledge and experience is needed and I can't provide those. A University does provide part of those during 4 to 6 years. :)

Here is what you can do:
Reread post # 18. What I was asking in paragraph 2 was for you to give it more throttle, enough throttle to attempt to force it to shift from second to third gear. Do this while it is at normal operating temperature, and only do it one time. Apply more throttle steadily, don't just floor it. If it will not shift even if you reach 3/4 to full throttle, see if there is any slipping at all. Then post the results.

,
 
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