STUPID STUPID STUPID

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Irishcream

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I have now learned my lesson. Don't do a half assed job or jerry rig it. I had recently put together my electric fuel system and am now having to repair it every weekend since. Foolishly I used rubber fuel lines in the valley with hose clamps and barb fittings. Now I see the error in my ways. I am now going to do it right and run all steel lines with compression fittings and secure the lines properly and isolate them for vibration. Stupid mistake will never happen again. It burst one of the lines while I was rolling down the main drag in town and of course it filled the valley full of fuel so when I stepped on it all the fuel fell right on top of the up pipes smoking out the entire intersection like some nob. Not to mention my fuel gauge taking a nose dive. My father in law is a plumber and is gonna give me a hand bending all the steel tubing and putting it all together the right way. Thank god it's still 85 degrees everyday.
 

02BigD

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Ummm....plenty of folks running around with rubber lines for fuel. Push loc is your friend, along with the local Parker store.
 

Irishcream

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It's been pretty hot here lately and I took it for a good 2 hour drive on the highway so I think the heat in the valley and the steel hose clamps made the perfect condition for the lines to burst.
Maybe it's time for a Cowl Induction Hood.
 

bbbxcursion

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Did you get diesel rated hose that works with the psi you're running? PLENTY of people never have problems with rubber lines.
 

TyCorr

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While I think that rubber line can be utilized, I tend to agree with the steel lines being a better option. Although with the road bs they use around here in the winter its tought watching something you did last year rot away the next.
 

Irishcream

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I'd like to run just one length of line instead of putting a bunch of joints in. 2 lengths from the back of the heads to the t then back to the steel factory line.
 

old man dave

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Pushlock hose fittings does not require use of clamps, they have several barbs on the fitting instead of a single barb on a clamp style hose fitting.

Truck parts places should have diesel rated hose bulk off of a reel to any length you want.
 

Charles

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You used sh*tty hose that was not intended for the pressure, temperature, chemical makeup or all of the above.

I prefer stainless braid with a rubber liner or solid rubber with AN fittings in either case. Easiest to manipulate when working on the engine, and quickest to remove completely with AN fittings.

With any braided line I also run a sheath over the lines to prevent abrasion of surrounding components as well as my hands.

Largely unsupported hardline is probably not the ideal solution believe it or not. Vibration on an unsupported hardline will often cause the flare to crack and leak. To do hardline you would technically need to build supports every so often so it could not vibrate like crazy out in the middle of the run. This is precisely what you see on OEM applications, most often on injection lines for instance. They will always be supported at one or more points along the run to control line vibration that would otherwise cause the material to fatigue and possibly fail over time.

Just run pushloc from parker or socketless from Aeroquip, or either a rubber or teflon lined braided from anyone and save yourself all the bs involved with bending lines and then having them pretty much in your way all the time from then on.

IMO of course.
 

Racer X

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Ford Transmission cooler lines and flexible fuel line replacement

Sorry to hear that happened Dave. It could have been much worse...luckily your truck didn't catch fire. At least diesel doesn't ignite as easily as gasoline does. :thumbup:

Actually,
The common flexible fuel rated line we call "rubber" isn't made of rubber. It's a synthetic material called neoprene and has a reinforced braid of treated thread in the center. It's made to resist swelling, softening and solvent break down of the fuel lines. Natural rubber material can't, and deteriorates very quickly when exposed to fuels. Gasoline and diesel once were used as a solvent to degrease and clean engine parts and the clean up of older paints and paint guns.

Fuel injection rated line is similar and the harder plastic type fuel line material has the same resistance to fuels. The valley gets hot indeed. Ford specified a fuel line made of a blue silicone neoprene compound with a higher resistance to heat for the connections to the O.E.M. fuel pump. The heat resistance was to prevent external cracks in the line. Many use regular neoprene line. It just cracks in less time and needs replacement sooner.

Auto Transmission Fluid and hydraulic oil rated "rubber" line is made of another synthetic material that's made not to swell, soften and crack internally when exposed to oils. It does crack externally from heat cycles and exposure to the elements. The ATF lines we all call "rubber" are for low pressure or return lines. Power steering return line is the same. High pressure hydraulic line has an added inner steel braid for strength against bursting. It too cracks externally.

Avoid using the cheap stainless steel braided ATF line to replace steel transmission cooler lines. What it actually is a stainless cover put over "rubber" line. The ends have fittings and a collar to slide over the stainless braided cover which hides the "rubber" line inside. After a year or 2 the line inside begins cracking from heat exposure etc. But the cover hides it... :doh This covered "rubber" line is not SAE approved for safety in a collision like steel is. Also it is a potential time bomb for a burnt transmission from fluid loss or vehicle loss from a fire. We refuse to sell this stuff.

There is real braided stainless steel line for replacing the steel transmission cooler lines. It's reinforced line like high pressure hydraulic line is, and the stainless braid is part of the line itself. :) It's Not just a slip on cover over "rubber" that fools the inexperienced and unknowing. How do you tell the difference? Price $$$. It's about $230 for a set of cooler lines made from the real deal.
If anyone is interested in a group buy pm or email. We can see if we can lower costs by buying a truck load of crimp-able braided stainless line. We have all the crimping machines needed to make high pressure hydraulic lines and other crimped lines. If there is enough interest to offer the best to you, we will. :rockon:
Let us know how much interest there is...
:popcorn:

.
 

Charles

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There is absolutely nothing wrong with using reusable ends on "rubber" lined steel braided line. Since the pressure is sub 1200psi there is no need to over-complicate a procedure by using machine-crimped ends that cannot be field installed where lengths can be made perfect every time.

I believe about every manufacturer under the sun produces quality stainless lines that can be assembled with reusable ends. They are usually rated to ~1000psi and the temperature ranges are normally between 250 and 300 depending on selection.


You can buy such a product from Aeroquip at a place like Summit. Here's a 20 foot role of sufficient hose for $95.


aer-fca0620_w.jpg


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FCA0620/




Combine that hose with a few of these reusables in the $10 range and you're there:


aer-fbm1012.jpg


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FBM1012/?rtype=10


They're $18.25 in a 90* fitting.

aer-fbm4032_w.jpg



Absolutely nothing wrong with that hose or fittings for either fuel delivery or trans cooler usage.




If you used 4 90's and all 20 feet that would be $168. Aeroquip states that hose to be comprised of "synthetic rubber", which may be what you're speaking of. Regardless, a section of it has been right at and at times actually touching my second stage turbo for a number of years now with 70 to 100+psi of fuel pressure in it and other than burning the "protec" abrasion cover off the line, it shows no signs of fatigue. So while I can't comment on some of the other options, I know that stuff is sufficient for something as basic as flowing trans fluid to and from a cooler.
 
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Irishcream

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I am going to stick with copper flexible lines. That way I can route it so that I can support it with some rubber lined hose clamps along the valve covers. The copper lines will not cost me a dime as well as the compression fittings. I am going to run them on the outside of the valley around the outside of the valve covers and have them meet in the middle just under the regulator behind the HPOP. That way I can keep the engine valley empty. Leave some room for a baked potato and a pot roast.
 

bad12jr

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I wouldn't use copper. I don't know for sure but will it corrode from the diesel?
 

Tom S

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Actually my concern would be cracking copper where there is vibration over time.
 

Tom S

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I would still suggest that you not roll that way.
 

PsRumors

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I have now learned my lesson..

If you use copper you have not learned your lesson. Copper is soft and kinks very easily.

Your father is a plumber but that does not mean the equipment he uses in homes should be used on your truck.

You have received some great advice, learn from your mistakes and do it right.
 

Racer X

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There is absolutely nothing wrong with using reusable ends on "rubber" lined steel braided line. Since the pressure is sub 1200psi there is no need to over-complicate a procedure by using machine-crimped ends that cannot be field installed where lengths can be made perfect every time.

I believe about every manufacturer under the sun produces quality stainless lines that can be assembled with reusable ends. They are usually rated to ~1000psi and the temperature ranges are normally between 250 and 300 depending on selection.


You can buy such a product from Aeroquip at a place like Summit. Here's a 20 foot role of sufficient hose for $95.


aer-fca0620_w.jpg



Combine that hose with a few of these reusables in the $10 range and you're there:


They're $18.25 in a 90* fitting.

Absolutely nothing wrong with that hose or fittings for either fuel delivery or trans cooler usage.

If you used 4 90's and all 20 feet that would be $168. Aeroquip states that hose to be comprised of "synthetic rubber", which may be what you're speaking of. Regardless, a section of it has been right at and at times actually touching my second stage turbo for a number of years now with 70 to 100+psi of fuel pressure in it and other than burning the "protec" abrasion cover off the line, it shows no signs of fatigue. So while I can't comment on some of the other options, I know that stuff is sufficient for something as basic as flowing trans fluid to and from a cooler.

Charles,
Thank you for the photos. I see a hose photo that’s better than a 1000 words. ---- If you can look at anything objectively....

Look closely at the photo of the hose you posted. Notice the inner braid is on the outside of plain flexible neoprene hose that Summit or Aero Quip refers to as "synthetic rubber".

That inner layer has diamond shaped holes in it. Then notice the outer braid is a tighter mesh with smaller holes in it. The point is a thin exterior fabric cover of stainless strands does not strengthen or extend the life of the neoprene or "synthetic rubber" hose inside it at all...It's a cover only...:sleep: LOL


The hose itself will still harden from heat, check, then crack inside the outer fabric braid covering it. When it does, it will still leak the same way it always has, except you won’t see the warning signs of hose cracks...

That IS the exact hose I mentioned earlier... :joy:

If you want to pay $5 a foot for covered neoprene hose
that costs $0.40 to $0.55 cents a foot by the truck load, that's fine... Good for you. :clapping:

Running fuel thru the same type of hose and knowing the stainless fabric covering has already melted, but you’re satisfied with it…. About all I can say is, I hope you or a loved one or anyone else doesn't get hurt or your truck doesn't burn up before it's replaced. I agree to disagree on your current choice of hoses. :toast:

We have wholly different view points. Yours is a site member’s and DIY owner’s point of view. My view is a Site Sponsor’s, and an experienced Professionals who wouldn’t sell what your using, because there is an alternative that is vastly superior, isn’t a fire hazard and could be made available for the same price or less. I wouldn't expect you or anyone else to know about it at all. :)

Using the standards an O.E.M. follows the “adequate” hose you are using that has started to melt just from radiant heat is below established S.A.E. safety standards on O.E.M. stock vehicles for fire hazard alone. Those were adopted back in the 1930s. A cigarette lighters flame would do that hose in. That heat wouldn’t damage a steel metal line.

If I manufacturer any lines or hoses for high performance vehicles, the quality will be well above O.E.M. I asked for interest and opinion by PM or email. I guess you missed that and felt the need to shoot it down without knowing more for some reason…...:rolleyes:

From what I hear, you have had multiple transmission failures… Any objective comments on that, or is that a different Charles? Nothing personal or offensive intended, I am asking you objectively about that, if you can be objective. If not, I'm not interested, ...no reply needed--Please.

We do agree on one thing. You would need to be concerned about field service and a complete $168.00 replacement of the hose that you prefer. Probably in less than 4-5 years.

Real stainless steel that will last a lifetime can be found in use on the kitchen table of nearly every home in the U.S. during every meal. Why shouldn’t it be used for brake, fuel, and other lines that contain flammable liquids in every U.S. vehicle made too????

Many steel brake lines have pin holed or burst from rusting through on these trucks in the rust belt states. If the finest real stainless line and hose assemblies can be made for the same price you paid or less my view and vision is nothing less should be used to build both bone stock and modified high performance vehicles all of our lives depend on. Lifetime is the standard quality most have and use at every meal and is in every U.S. kitchen daily. Think about that...

The hose I referred to earlier is much different than the hose you prefer. It’s not available from the common sources of off-shore products made for vehicles, which is what many of the things Summit sells are. It’s made exclusively in the U.S.A. and is a proprietary product not available to individual consumers or from retailers anywhere including Summit.

It can be exposed to the extreme heat from huge nearby open flames of fire without failing. On a humorous note : It can withstand enough radiant heat to melt your entire truck down to liquid that would boil, and then vaporize until it was gone. :flush: LOL :D LOL

It would well exceed SAE standards for fire safety both during normal and high performance use and during severe collisions (wrecks or motor vehicle accidents). It would last a lifetime. :)

If there is enough interest, we could offer 25’ feet of an extremely high quality product with fittings that’s 100,000 times better than the plain "rubber" flexible covered hose you prefer now for less than $160.00. You will find out more and why we have exclusive access to this material and several others when our welcome thread is posted.

The hose I prefer can be seen somewhere... :) ....in the first photo with many others of unmatched quality.

The second photo demonstrates how much radiant heat, stress, violent movement, and vibrations it can easily withstand.


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5_-f1s_throttleup.jpg

Thank you,

Racer -- out.

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