valve spring and push rod write up?

02POWERSTROKE7.3 · Sep 6, 2011

Does any one have a write up for changing 7.3 valve springs and pushrods? Anyone have torque specs? How do you tighten rocker arm on a 7.3?

vanderchevy18 · Sep 6, 2011

I have been meaning to do one. I have a ton of pics of it from my build. Maybe I'll get that done here in a couple days.

juniort444e · Sep 6, 2011

I probably did mine all wrong, but it works and is getting redone soon so im not worried.

I will take pics of the new build. I didnt have any time with the last one, as i did all the work out side, in the cold while it was raining, everyday.

02POWERSTROKE7.3 · Sep 6, 2011

Please post.

SouthFlstrokin' · Sep 6, 2011

Pretty easy brother ...

juniort444e · Sep 6, 2011

The way i took them off, is exactly how i put them back on. Torqued them to what i had wrote down, cant remember, and moved on to the next one. I didnt see anything wrong in doing so as i didnt see how i could adjust them if they were to be off.

V-Ref · Sep 7, 2011

02POWERSTROKE7.3 said:
Does any one have a write up for changing 7.3 valve springs and pushrods? Anyone have torque specs? How do you tighten rocker arm on a 7.3?

Remove all IC piping.
Remove both VCs.
Using a 10mm & 11mm deepwell socket, remove 8 glow plugs.
Using something like a mcdonalds straw, push straw down into gp hole until you feel top of piston.
*Tip-Do not use a close hangar. I did..on the first cylinder. I accidentally slightly bent it so removal took some gentle fishing to get it free. This can cause an upset stomach, create new swear words, airborne tools, and mucho angst. Moral of story, don't use anything you wouldn't mind becoming trapped inside the cylinder.
Use a 26mm socket to handcrank motor over until you see TDC on the cylinder with the straw in the gp hole.
Pull rocker arm assembly off.
Remove pushrods.
I used the Rotunda (T94T-6513-AH) 303-483 tool below to remove the valve springs. Awesome tool.

Installation is reverse.

*Tip-Have a magnet near by to snag the retainers.
*Tip-ensure your new pushrods are fully seated in the lifter, before and during the reinstallation of the rocker arms.
*Tip-ensure you triple check the UVCH harness connections (injector and VC sides)
*Tip-ensure your pushrods don't have a lifter/rocker specific end. I used Smith Bros from Swamps, and was told it didn't matter which side was installed to what. Use a dab of engine assembly lube on both ends of the pushrod prior to assembly.
*Tip-Ensure you are actually at TDC by physically pushing down on your straw, and ensuring the straw isn't just snagged or hung up. You'd likely never forget the sound a dropped valve makes if you got to hear it. :jawdrop:

Some steps illustrated here from Diesel Innovations.

Tq specs from above are:
Valve cover retaining bolts and nuts 8 ft. lbs.
Rocker arms are 20 ft lbs
Glow plugs 14 ft lbs

Are you going to measure installed height and shim? If so, indicate such, and folks with experience doing that can post up on that for you as well.

V-Ref · Sep 7, 2011

vanderchevy18 said:
I have been meaning to do one. I have a ton of pics of it from my build. Maybe I'll get that done here in a couple days.

Vander-Rock the write up. This was just to get him by in case he needed to get going. :biggun:

02POWERSTROKE7.3 · Sep 7, 2011

Do you have to use air to hold the valves up like in a gas motor? Or is it fine as long as each cylinder is tdc? Was planning on getting smith bros pushrods and comp springs.

SouthFlstrokin' · Sep 7, 2011

02POWERSTROKE7.3 said:
Do you have to use air to hold the valves up like in a gas motor? Or is it fine as long as each cylinder is tdc? Was planning on getting smith bros pushrods and comp springs.

Same here, that's a good question