Injector Swap How-To

This is a write up of how to swap injectors.

This is written with the understanding that the intercooler piping, engine harness plug, and valve covers have all been removed.

Tools needed- 5/16" socket, 3" extension, ratchet, socket knuckle, prybar, needle nose pliers, allen wrench (forgot the size), and (the way I do it) vacuum pump.

First pull the electrical plug. Do this by flipping the metal retainer down and (if needed) use a pair of needle nose to gently pull down the plug and push it away from the work area.


Next remove the oil diverted using an allen wrench.


Then remove the outboard 5/16 bolt from the injector retainer. Remember, lefty loosy, righty tighty! LOL You may need a knuckle for the rear cylinders. Its kinda tight.


After the bolt is removed push on the hold down inboard towards the engine valley. The other end of the injector hold down is key holed. The inboard bolt will slip through the injector hold down. Then gently pry the injector up. It will take a little bit of force, but be careful not to damage anything. Put something under the prybar to keep from denting the head.


Once the injector is out, the oil and fuel will seep into the cylinder. This is where my method differs from some. Some will pull the glowplugs once all injectors are replaced, valve covers temporarily replaced, and the engine turned over a couple times. This results in oil going into the exhaust causing oil to run from the tailpipe and lots of white smoke. Also, the fuel that seeped inside the cylinder during the change, is blown into the crankcase, resulting in the need for an oil change.

My way utilizes a vacuum pump to suck out the oil and fuel prior to replacing the injector. If your wife has an old vacuum cleaner (not one she uses) or you have a shop vac, a bit of hose, and some bendy straws, you can build one.


Stick the straw down in the hole and suck out all the oil and fuel. You'll have to move it around to ensure you get everything from atop the piston and down in the bowl of the piston.


Once the cylinder is sucked out you are ready to replace the injector. Set the injector down in the hole ensuring the hold down slips over the inboard bolt. Once lined up like the original one, use a rubber mallet and very gently tap the injector down till the tone changes and the injector is fully seated.

Now reinstall the outer injector hold down bolt. Torque to 15ftlbs.

To ensure a good seat of the injector, hold a straight edge across all the injectors. They should all be at the same height.

Now replace the electrical plug and flip the metal retainer back on the plug.

Reinstall the valve cover and other pieces removed.

It'll crank a while before the engine starts. You should have a battery charger handy just in case.

It will un rough for the first 20 miles or so. Go flog the **** out of er and it'll clear up quicker. LOL

ENJOY!!

You forgot to say to install the oil diverter, and torque them. oke:

Also every set of injectors that I have installed came with instructions saying not to hit the inj with a mallet. I have found that a good solid push on top of the injector will get them to "pop" in without needing the mallet. Also it is a good idea to coat all the injector orings with a good coating of oil before the install as that helps them to go in easier.

Besides that good Write up.

Very good catch!! I totally forgot those points. Thank you.

You are right about tapping the injector. I pushed the "very gently" because of it. I have found some to need a little more persuasion than a push. Primarily the rear ones. Very true though.

Thanks vader! Anyone else?

thats exactly the info us beginners needed,with pics too! awesome job and thanks!

Not to gentle here. When I install mine I place a chunk of 2x4 on top of the injector and hit it with a hammer. A few times I even split the 2x4. Never had an issue

I sure hope you are joking.

vanderchevy18 said:

I sure hope you are joking.

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No I'm not. Thats how I do mine.
I'm not telling anyone this is the right way or to do it like this. So don't get that idea.
But no i'm not joking at all. I've never had a problem yet

Nice write-ups vanderchevy!
The pics are good too. Thank you!:thumbsup:

We just use a rubber mallet to tap em down in, with 0 problems on the 9 we've done so far. Not so sure i'd want to use or be splitting a 2x4 on em though...

Thanks! And I did everything from the pics to the write ups on my phone!! So I get extra points!! LOL

This write up is very appreciative to some-one like me that is always eager to learn about how to do stuff like this! Always wondered the process for it.

Removing the oil diverters is kind of an optional thing, for people that get crow bar happy, and to be on the safe side. Definitely not a bad idea to pull them for a first time injector installer though! Even as many as I've done, I've managed to slip up and crack one once or twice :doh:.
Another great write up btw.

THe oil diverter thing might be a good option to add like others said, i know i broke a couple on the last injectors i did. Also might want to add a little thing in saying it would be a good time to check the glowplugs and/or replace them all.

Thanks.

Rubber mallet.....FTW. I don't have enough azz to put behind a hand push for seating an injector with new oringsLOL

Interesting oil removal method btw.

Sweet write-up, I'm saving this for future use!!

One thing we do is put the pry bar on the outer side of the injector, towards the manifolds. I also leave the deflectors on. I just give the pry bar a few hits, the injector pops up, slide the collar up, and out it goes.

And there are 2 small torx-headed(99% sure) plugs in the oil rail under the vave covers you can take out to let the rails drain some. They don't help a lot, but its some.

What do you mean add in there about the oil diverter? Its in there. With pic too.

vanderchevy18 said:

What do you mean add in there about the oil diverter? Its in there. With pic too.

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I believe he is talking about the re-installation of them that I mentioned.

JD3020 said:

And there are 2 small torx-headed(99% sure) plugs in the oil rail under the vave covers you can take out to let the rails drain some. They don't help a lot, but its some.

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I STRONGLY DO NOT recommend this. I have seen way to many stripped out when trying to remove them, cross threaded when reinstalled and they leak, or just plain not tightened and have them fall out after some run time. For the small amount of oil that comes out of them the are not worth the hassle IMO.

Vader's Fury said:

I believe he is talking about the re-installation of them that I mentioned.



I STRONGLY DO NOT recommend this. I have seen way to many stripped out when trying to remove them, cross threaded when reinstalled and they leak, or just plain not tightened and have them fall out after some run time. For the small amount of oil that comes out of them the are not worth the hassle IMO.

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I haven't had any issues yet but i know that there can be some issues. You just gotta make sure you have the correct bit and tap it in all the way. I got all new o-rings and mine are perfectly fine still. But like we've said, not much oil comes out.

Also remember to throw a couple bolts on the VC's when clearing the cylinders. I didn't when i did mine and it blew both covers off and oil/fuel went everywhere. Then when i was working on a buddies truck we only swapped one injector and decided to blow out the injector hole. So i rolled up a rag and held over the hole, and had 300+psi of fuel and oil shooting at me and all over the shop. LOL.

So next time i do it i will throw some bolts on the VC's and be done.

I usually swing by the feed store and pick up a large livestock syringe and some tubing before an injector swap.

Then pop one injector loose from each side and leave it to drain for 10-20 minutes.

Pull the other 6 injectors and use the syringe to draw the oil/fuel out of the cylinders. Most of it will be in the first two cylinders.

Just another option, good writeup.