First but also have a question

TurboM700

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01 7.3 has been leaking oil for a while now.

For the longest time I thought it was the rear main seal as I couldnt see it leaks or oil in the valley. Didnt feel like pulling the tranny so just learned to live with it for now. Well over the winter it stoped in till spring came then it got worse and then I could see it was leaking down the back turbo pedistal.

Replace the 4 o-rings for that but I still have a dam leaking come from some place up top.

It was hard to tell when pulling it apart if it was leaking but is it possible or likely that the warm up valve acutator is leaking oil out of it?

Thanks
Mike
 

big_stroker

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I think your on the right path. The EBPV actuator on the turbo ped is were I would look next.

IMO I would just gut your EBPV and plug the actuator on the turbo ped.

Also look and see if there is any oil leaking out from the center section of your turbo.
 

TurboM700

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HPO and IPR are all dry. The only way I found the leak is it got bad enough that I could see the wet line on the top part of the pedistal. Once I got it off you could see where it was leaking down the back side of the pedistal thru the hole in the back of the motor then on to the ground making it look like the rear main was leaking.

I guess it time to pull it apart again and gut the EBPV.

Thanks
Mike
 

MINK

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I'd do the EBPV delete, you dont need it and it'll never leak again...You are right in the fact that if the valley is dry then the leak isnt from the HPOP.
 

TurboM700

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What is invovled with delteing the EBPV. I know what do to on the turbo side but what about the pedistal. Weld a plug on the end?

Thanks
Mike
 

Cody

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how hard is it to pull the turbo and replace the orings, im pretty sure thats where my trucks leaking as well...
 

ditch_dawg

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First time is always a pain, but it can be done in a Saturday afternoon. Just spray everything the night before with some PB blaster. The clamp on the back of the turbo is always a chore. If you decide to do it might as well replace the donut gaskets in the up-pipes. Coat the inside of clamp on the back of the turbo and the one on the exhaust pipe to tubro connection with a little anti-seize and it'll be sooooo much easier the next time you do it.

Check the link to the videos above I believe there are one or two on this topic.
 

cdiesel

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how hard is it to pull the turbo and replace the orings, im pretty sure thats where my trucks leaking as well...

When i pulled my turbo for the first time to put in a WW the instructions said between 4-8 hours depending on experience. I just didn't want to be the retard who took 10 hours to do it and put it back in. ( and I wasn't ) PB blast everything like ditch dawg said and it will be easier.
And just for a little info, I know someone who can pull a turbo in under 35 minutes and have it back in in under 25. So between an hour and 10 hours should be your goal :D. Good luck
 

TurboM700

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I had my turbo out and back in, in less than an hour of course I have done it a few times. I have had the clamp on the back of the turbo take me hrs to get off before. Some of those can be a royal PITA.

Looks like I got a nice weekend project now.

Thanks everyone

Mike
 

TurboM700

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Thats what I ended up doing this weekend. Machined and TIG welded a cap on both sides. Then gutted the turbo. Havent driving it enough to find out if the leaks gone.

Mike
 

Lowdown89

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If you have any more problems outta your pedestal I have a stock one in good shape that I got on a engine I bought for parts it wasn't leaking outta the rod or anything, but hopefully your fix fixed the leak
 

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