wastegate alternative?

after having issues with the wastegate on my truck. I have been sitting here trying to figure out ways to relieve the BP yet not make a reliability issue at the same time. I can only imagine being 1500 miles from home with the wastegate stuck open...

What I was thinking about doing is. Remove the wastegate and make an elbow that replaces it. Then at one end of the elbow, have a plate that can be put in. This plate would have a hole in it to let exhaust through. The size of the hole would take some trial and error to figure out. Start with maybe a 3/8 hole and see what it does. Go up or down in size from there.

Now I understand it might spool slightly slower from the lose of pressure, but I don't think it would be bad. It would be 100% reliable. And accomplish the goal of lowering bp.

Now is this a totally stupid idea that is just a waste of time to even try? Or is it worth a shot?

it will be like you are having an exhaust leak back into the DP

Are you saying only if you had a failure on your WG you would swap the gate out for the plate till you could make it home? Or a permanent setup?

I currently took the wastegate off becuase it is not working correct. Yes it would be a constant exhaust leak back to the downpipe. I am trying to figure out something that works, without a chance of failure.

I understand the idea, but i dont see it as the best idea. If your having trouble with wastegate failure then maybe try running a tial water cooled gate instead of the Precision. I wouldnt be comfortable with making my own exhaust leak under the hood.

I dont see this being a good idea. A wastegate is just that but it also closes when you dont want bp leaking out....The differences in design are what differentiate a working design from a non-working design.

I dont know if there is something wrong with the wastegate or what. I just figured out the fix anyways. I am just leaving the wastegate off. Don't want the headach anymore. If anyone wants a wastegate kit pm me an offer. The only thing missing is one clamp that is still on my downpipe.

did you ever get a chance to put some air to the gate when it was out? that would tell you better at what PSI the spring rated for.
most springs dont hold that much, i would guess 27-28 at the most? did you check if your regulator is on correctly?

BFT said:

did you ever get a chance to put some air to the gate when it was out? that would tell you better at what PSI the spring rated for.
most springs dont hold that much, i would guess 27-28 at the most? did you check if your regulator is on correctly?

Click to expand...

I was using my nitrogen tank and regulator to check it. Not sure how accurate it is since its a 0-500 psi gauge. 10-15 psi would start to move the gate, 20-25 would fully open it. With pressure to the top, there were no air leaks.

I tested the regulator and it was working as it should. Lately I have not had the regulator on the truck. I have been running full boost to the top to try and hold the gate closed and vent to the bottom. Even then I could only get the boost over 50psi if I rolled into the throttle. If I just floored the truck I would only get 40psi with heavy smoke.

I just don't have time to play with this anymore. I just want it to start, run, and do what I need it to. When and if I go to bigger turbos I will worry about it then. It just gets aggravating when you spend lots of money on stuff to not have it work right. I have talked to Elite three times now with the answer of I will call you back with an answer... Not once getting a call back. I know I'm not one of there big spenders, But I feel like I have spent some good money with them.

well, i can assure that the picture i have posted up is the way they would tell you to do it.

what tune are you running from spartan?

i shot you a PM

Spartan 250,275,300,310,350. Same results on all the tunes only I don't expect to see over 50 psi on the 250. I have had the regulator set up every way you can. After the other wastegate thread. I was positive the valve seat was missing. When I took it apart today and it was there, I was like wtf.

This afternoon with no wastegate. The 275 was making 54psi almost smoke free running perfect. If the higher back pressure blows something up. I'll build it better next time around... The truck was seeing 71+ psi actual BP with the cold weather 310 issue. There was no valve train damage when the motor came apart the last time.

you monitor absolute or desired on your DD?

I believe it is desired. which ever one figures in barometer. which is 14 for me. I got tired of doing the math while I was driving.

when you T'd off to run boost to the WG was it beofre or after the regulator?

BFT said:

when you T'd off to run boost to the WG was it beofre or after the regulator?

Click to expand...

I started with it the way Sean said to do it here http://www.streetdieselperformance.com/Instructions___Downloads.php

Then I went to the way you said to do it. Boost line to the T, T- regulator, regulator to top, with full boost going to the bottom.

Then boost to T, T- regulator, regulator to bottom, full boost to top.

Then said F it and ran full boost to the top and vent to the bottom to just try and hold the damn thing closed. That worked the best.

no, you regulate to top boost to bottom

N/M... i saw you did that:doh: