Cab On Turbo Removal Write Up?

Does anyone have the procedure to do this? Also, what parts list will I need, gaskets, etc.? I already know about the Snap On socket and I'm thinking of getting a topside creeper to make it easier. Any other tips and tricks to know?

Id say dont even think about getting the topside.....it would be a must in my opinion

My understanding is that it's much easier with the EGR system removed.

Top side creepers are super nice and intake manifold and egr makes things easier as well.

Dustball8504 said:

Does anyone have the procedure to do this? Also, what parts list will I need, gaskets, etc.? I already know about the Snap On socket and I'm thinking of getting a topside creeper to make it easier. Any other tips and tricks to know?

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From what ive been told, Its not worth the trouble, just grin and bear it...remove the cab.

4tonGT40 said:

From what ive been told, Its not worth the trouble, just grin and bear it...remove the cab.

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That's not always an option for a DIY.

Step 1. Hire a couple smurfs who are good with there hands.. lol

4tonGT40 said:

From what ive been told, Its not worth the trouble, just grin and bear it...remove the cab.

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He is swapping a turbo wheel. It seems to more logical to pull them cab on in this case.

Yeah, I got a set of stock turbos with a batmowheel installed coming so it'll be more logical doing it cab on. If it was time for studs then I'd have someone yank the cab but not yet.

HighOn20s said:

Step 1. Hire a couple smurfs who are good with there hands.. lol

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LOL

It really isnt as bad as you think. Me and dustin took em loose in a bestwestern parking lot in the dark at dpc. The only hard part is cracking the uppipe bolts loose. Snapon makes a nice 6 point socket that has an extension built into it just for this job. Just take your time and use lots of penetrating oil. I also use orange silicone to hold the new uppipe gaskets in place when going back together.

IT is doable but sucks. They also make a half moon wrench for getting those 6 bolts loose, Thats the worst part. Have a buddy to help lift the damn things out they are heavy!

Travis

I just looked at mine. I think I will wait till I pull the cab. Looks to be a bitch.
My father owns a mechanic shop. So on a 4-day weekend pull my trailer and park it at the shop. Yank the cab and do head studs, egr delete and turbos at the same time. Might even talk the the machine shop to open for me to resurface the heads. From looking at the directions for pulling the cab it does not look too bad. If I can get an engine out of my 96 Impala in 4 hours I think I can pull the cab in the same time.

The best penetrating oil I have seen is made by a company called Kimball Midwest. GREAT STUFF. Better than anything I have used from Auto-Parts stores. It has even broke loose broken manifold bolts off after a person broke easy outs in them and used more stuff than I can name.

tbsimmons said:

The best penetrating oil I have seen is made by a company called Kimball Midwest. GREAT STUFF. Better than anything I have used from Auto-Parts stores. It has even broke loose broken manifold bolts off after a person broke easy outs in them and used more stuff than I can name.

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kimball midwest ftw we buy it by the case works good also has a decent smell.

5hrs start to finish to swap turbos. It's not that bad. Top side creeper is nice but I've never used one. Good quality 6pt sockets and a 6pt wrench will do wonders for this job. I just did a tow power swap the other evening.

I did them and its not too bad. once the uppipes are broke loose its not too bad. I didnt know snap on made a special wrench for them. I will look into them

zig zag and half moon obstacle wrenches did it for me

The up pipe bolts are pretty easy without the Snap On socket. I've changed the up pipes and EGR crossover tube cab on. Wasn't too bad. I wouldn't even consider cab off to pull the turbos.

Good luck! Hope you like working blind... LOL