Hydro-Locked...

How often does this happen with a blown EGR? I thought at first I had a blown EGR, but I pulled the EGR valve today, and it was pretty dry on the bottom...

The truck has been hard to start and has been smoking white for a while after being cranked cold. I did some tests yesterday with AE and it buzzed fine and was looking good on the power balance.

Oil temps were 25+ higher so I was going after the oil cooler and gonna test the GPM. NOW it looks like I need to pull the gp's and figure out what fluid is in there...

Any insight?

I have had one come in that was hydro locked. Turned out to be a ruptured egr cooler.

I forgot to add my secondary assessment. I think the exhaust smelled most like unburnt diesel, but I assumed it was PCM related. Im wondering if maybe it's a stuck injector?

cracked or broken tip, I have seen several.

Especially since it smoked for a good 4 miles yesterday.

I would agree with ctc on that.

I just went through something similar. I had tons of white smoke, an a bad knock. Pulled the injectors and ended up having a failed copper washer on 2 injectors, cass told me fuel was getting pulled past the injector an basically filling the cylinder. Good luck figuring it out

the best way to find out what bank is to free it up, by turning the engine counter clockwise about 8 times.. turn it clockwise by hand to make sure its ok, go ahead and bump the key. if you can get it freed up again, take the lid off the secondary fuel filer, take filter out, fill it with fuel, dont use the key, jump the wire by the passener side and use that to crank motor over... do it with both feed lines attatched first. if there are bubble, take off one line... if the bubbles go away, it was that bank...

Ok. Just out of curiosity, Im going pretty deep into there to do an oil cooler R&R. Should I just pull the GP's and turn it over by hand to diagnose it instead of all of that?

JAP said:

Ok. Just out of curiosity, Im going pretty deep into there to do an oil cooler R&R. Should I just pull the GP's and turn it over by hand to diagnose it instead of all of that?

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Thats what I do. Less likely to hurt something, and really doesnt take that long. You most likely have a loose injector hold down that caused the copper to burn then burn the o ring allowing fuel into the cylinder.

CTC DEEZUL said:

cracked or broken tip, I have seen several.

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Sucks to hear. Hopefully nothing to major and you get back up and running.

JAP said:

Ok. Just out of curiosity, Im going pretty deep into there to do an oil cooler R&R. Should I just pull the GP's and turn it over by hand to diagnose it instead of all of that?

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I see someone already quoted this but that is the way that i would do it.

No offense to CTC because I know he's knowledgeable, and if I weren't actually going in there anyway, I would have definitely tried his way, but I think I'm going to pull the GP's.

When did you get a 6.0?

.

My mom has had one for about 5 years.

My old 6.0 hydrolocked from a leaky EGR cooler once. It completely locked the motor down.

ParkerFly said:

My old 6.0 hydrolocked from a leaky EGR cooler once. It completely locked the motor down.

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I've read it a few times on the interet, but would their be coolant on the top and bottom of the EGR valve? I saw some "wetness" on the top but it looked more like CCV oil than coolant...

JAP said:

I've read it a few times on the interet, but would their be coolant on the top and bottom of the EGR valve? I saw some "wetness" on the top but it looked more like CCV oil than coolant...

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Generally if its leaking coolant bad enough to hydraulic you will see quite a bit of wetness around the valve. another thing to try is leave the egr valve out and pressurize the coolant system. if the cooler is leaking you will see the coolant start to pool in the intake. But from what you describe ill bet its an injector issue not coolant.

Gonna start tearing into it tonight.

let us know