6.4 Buyers Guide

Derek@Vision Diesel

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Maybe this can be made a sticky, it seems like it would be nice to have for others looking to upgrade.

Basically what im looking for is additional help on buying a 6.4, couple examples:

1. What year or "job" of truck would be ideal, and which ones should you avoid.

2. What do you look for when your test driving/looking at a 6.4 to buy (possible signs of head work, newly replaced radiator, odd noises?)

3. Is there a mileage that people are finding more and more issues with (does 100k scare anyone away from a 6.4?)

4. What are the difference between a f250 and f350, seems like the 250 is way more popular!
 

Jhaddox

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Maybe this can be made a sticky, it seems like it would be nice to have for others looking to upgrade.

Basically what im looking for is additional help on buying a 6.4, couple examples:

1. What year or "job" of truck would be ideal, and which ones should you avoid.

2. What do you look for when your test driving/looking at a 6.4 to buy (possible signs of head work, newly replaced radiator, odd noises?)

3. Is there a mileage that people are finding more and more issues with (does 100k scare anyone away from a 6.4?)

4. What are the difference between a f250 and f350, seems like the 250 is way more popular!

1. A lot of people dont seem to like a Job 1 08...Thats what i have and have had no problems with it at all, love my truck, 09,10 are fine

2.Make sure the Venturi T is done if its a Job 1 08, coolant leaks from the radiator would be a sign of a cracked rad. Make sure the coolant bottle has no puking residue on it

3. I wouldnt be scared of a high mile 6.4, i had 100k before the tear down and it ran great

4. Only difference is a bigger block in the rear suspension of the 350 and it has a higher GVWR. Other than that you see a lot more single wheel 250's because the 350's are split into single wheel and dual wheel trucks

Just a matter of odds, a lot more single wheel 250's out there
 

Derek@Vision Diesel

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1. A lot of people dont seem to like a Job 1 08...Thats what i have and have had no problems with it at all, love my truck, 09,10 are fine

2.Make sure the Venturi T is done if its a Job 1 08, coolant leaks from the radiator would be a sign of a cracked rad. Make sure the coolant bottle has no puking residue on it

3. I wouldnt be scared of a high mile 6.4, i had 100k before the tear down and it ran great

4. Only difference is a bigger block in the rear suspension of the 350 and it has a higher GVWR. Other than that you see a lot more single wheel 250's because the 350's are split into single wheel and dual wheel trucks

Just a matter of odds, a lot more single wheel 250's out there
Thanks Josh, thats good info. Most of it just seems like common sense though, check it over real well like you would any truck.

I am hoping to find one with about 10k left on the warranty sticker, just so i can find some time to check the entire truck over and get any last little thing fixed under warranty before it expires and i start to mod the thing.

Lately ive been hearing lots of piston/internal issues (obviously its a small % in the real world, but large % on the forums).... internal issues generally are obvious on the outside, blowby etc... correct? Just trying to avoid something that i might be ignorant to
 

skew12

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Just the thread I've been looking for


I'm about ready to sell my 7.3 and upgrade.
 

TripleE44

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Something else to note is it seems like owners of 09s and 10s are getting a little better mileage out of them stock than 08s. Like was said before though, I've got a Job1 08 with no issues other than a stuck egr valve once in 70k miles. But, if I were looking for one I'd be looking for an 09.
 

Derek@Vision Diesel

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Something else to note is it seems like owners of 09s and 10s are getting a little better mileage out of them stock than 08s. Like was said before though, I've got a Job1 08 with no issues other than a stuck egr valve once in 70k miles. But, if I were looking for one I'd be looking for an 09.

Thanks for the info! If i find one with under 70k miles, i probably wont tune it or touch it right away. I work on the looks side of things until the warranty gets close to expiring.

But an 09 is definitely my first choice, but an 08 wouldnt scare me away at all
 

PSD-BLACK-CLOUD

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Yea no one i know with a 10 has a 3.73. Mine is 3.55 so was my moms and my dads. Our 08's were all 3.73 though. If you get a dualie you get the 3.73 or bigger.
 

chromehound

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Just like all other used vehicles pull any reports you can, check for signs of abuse/neglect, check on recalls to see if they are done and use your best judgement. Just because it runs/drives/acts good one day dosen't mean it will the next. So far I love my '08 over all but one of my 7.3s and that's because I had it for 4 years.
 

jdgleason

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I have an 09 job two and I love it. Great truck haven't had any problems, and it has performed flawlessly for me. As for the gearing, 3.55s would be pretty nice IMO. With the torque these trucks make, you never really notice the difference driving aside from a little rpm drop which should show in the mileage dept. That being said I have 3.73s and no complaints.
 

chromehound

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I wish I had 3.73's with by bigger tires my milage went down alot and I think if I had the 3.73's it would get better mpg's.

I don't know what the 325 equals out to but my 37s with 3.73s get 13ish city/highway and upto 17 on the interstate. I know some better tunes should help out.
 

TyCorr

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I don't know what the 325 equals out to but my 37s with 3.73s get 13ish city/highway and upto 17 on the interstate. I know some better tunes should help out.

a 325 tire is 13.5" wide...I know that 325 divided by 25 really equals 13 but thats not what it means on a tire.
 

Jhaddox

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Maybe include what needs to be done or deleted to make it "bulletproof"

Studs and an egr delete, maybe a ported intake manifold to equalize flow to the rear most cylinders

What are your power goals with this truck Derek...then people can give you a better idea on what to watch for at what levels


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Dustball8504

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Delete the EGR and run a lighter tune and it should be pretty well bulletproof without studs. Studs are definite for running higher power tunes though.
 

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