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Old 05-16-2018, 08:05 PM
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Default What is your Fox 2.0 Valving on stock springs?

I have searched and searched but most end up discussing Sulastic, aftermarket leafs, tire psi, etc. wanting to stick strictly to valving please.

I have an F-350 CCLB Dually(yes) air bags in the rear, stock springs and Fox 2.0 performance with reservoir on all corners. That I use to tow a 16k fifth wheel with. Valve code on the dust cap is T/90, which from what I’ve gathered is something like a (flutter compression)30/90(rebound). The issue I have is the truck will dip in slight hole and the compression is not fast enough on the coming out so it bounces out. Yes I’m aware “it’s a truck” but I believe I can make it better with a few changes. So I’m gonna re-valve, which any body that has tried will say it’s tough to get it right on the first try.

So of course call Fox and see what they say....... “the piston I have is a single bleed .070 and code was last updated in 2009. I should add .070 bleed to all pistons and change the compression side to #50 in the rear(to work in conjunction with the bags and change compression to #70 in the front......i could be wrong(hence why I’m here but)I would think increasing the stack thickness from the .008 to .012 would have the opposite effect of what I’m trying to achieve. Making compression stiffer. Hoping somebody has a similar setup(stock springs/aftermarket bags and 2in shocks) that wouldn’t mind taking a peak at their dust cap(where the shaft goes in and giving me some idea of what I should be going for.

Thanks

IMG_1291.JPGIMG_1291.JPG


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Old 05-17-2018, 06:22 AM
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HeavyAssault HeavyAssault is offline
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I've been told more than once you want to allow compression and control the rebound. Make the spring work. I know it's all about personal preferences. Not to mention what PSI are your tires.
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Old 05-17-2018, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeavyAssault View Post
I've been told more than once you want to allow compression and control the rebound. Make the spring work. I know it's all about personal preferences. Not to mention what PSI are your tires.


Thanks for the reply, I’ve tried dropping tire psi to 30, with the same results.


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Old 05-17-2018, 11:36 PM
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No one? Well I guess I’ll do some experimenting. I talked to Fox again today and there actually was a misunderstanding of what I was after. Said “Adding 2nd bleed port would allow a lot of low speed, we want to use compression to control it. So use a #50 stack(0.010) and keep the same flutter pivoting on a 0.008.” I have riden in the truck and know how it feels and what I believe it should feel like, can’t help but think increasing to a #50 stack would yield a similar performance to what I’ve got now...Being that it takes all of 15 mins to rebuild a shock I figured why not just toy around, see what I can come up with.

Got a few things to do tomorrow so want to leave this here in the hopes someone that knows will tell me “ hey you’re screwing up” or “yea looks legit”
Here’s what I’ve got so far.
Move my thinnest 1.42x.006 to front to allow more flex and flow
Move my 1.35x.008 to the second position for support
Leave the .8x.010 for pivot
Move my 1.6 to the 4th position to give the flow leverage in the high speed as well as support for the “front line” so to speak.


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Old 05-18-2018, 05:20 AM
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For 15 mins of work even if it's not right sounds like an easy fix. Go at it Bro. You are blazing the trail.
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Old 05-29-2018, 07:21 AM
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How did it work out? I have a similar issue with bouncing rear suspension on a CCLB Dually pulling a 15k 5th wheel Toyhauler and Rancho 9000's. Have been seriously considering moving to the Fox 2.0's.
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Old 05-29-2018, 08:11 AM
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I changed the shims around to this configuration and drilled out the bleed hole in each piston(per Fox).....smoothed out a lil bit but I can’t stop there lol. still has a jitter in the rear end sometimes. seems to “float” better now the front wants to rock when turning slow up an incline. Not bad just more noticeable. Can’t seem to find anybody that’s happy with their setup and willing to get the valving numbers off their dust cap, so searching and searching some more. I did come across a dodge forum where Don Thuren from Thuren Fabrications set a dually up with 40/100 in the front and 20/120 in the rear but unsure of what dodge/spring rate/weight or how he stacked them. I wrote him on Facebook but he hasn’t responded.

In my mind I’m trying to imagine what that valving would feel like as I’m driving and it would make sense given the strength/stiffness of the springs to have really light compression(for give) and a heavy rebound(to resist the tires from slamming back down) as well as be different from front to back. So I may try it out, but since I’m new and not a lot of people are in the game of dually suspension or willing to give away their trade secrets gonna look into it some more before I just start throwing money at it.


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Old 05-29-2018, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackseven View Post
How did it work out? I have a similar issue with bouncing rear suspension on a CCLB Dually pulling a 15k 5th wheel Toyhauler and Rancho 9000's. Have been seriously considering moving to the Fox 2.0's.


I’m sure if you were to get them from Carli, BDS(believe owned by Fox), even Thuren fabrication or anybody that does their own valving like a shop that has a way of weighing the front/rear the 2.0s can be valved to almost Cadillac status.

If I were looking to buy some more I’d call Carli or Thuren and see what they say your best options would be.


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Old 11-24-2018, 07:31 AM
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Default What is your Fox 2.0 Valving on stock springs?

Ok after I’ve spent about a year trying to get my 13 f350 dually to ride better on 22” wheels and 34” tires I’m willing to put some of this out there on how to re-valve Fox 2.0 reservoir shocks and changing the bleed in the piston.
Plenty of videos on YouTube that explain the process better than I can. But it’s real easy to do. You can get your local 4x4 shop to refill the nitrogen if you don’t have the nitrogen bottle setup yourself.
I changed weight from a 7w to a 10w shock but not sure if it was needed.
Cheapest place I found to buy shims is Kar Tek a $1 a piece or stack for $6/5. For my .004 shims I bought .004 shim stock and turned them on a drill press(lil overkill but I got obsessed with it at one point)
If anybody wants to tackle it here’s what I did.

My pistons came with a single .70 bleed hole front/back. Front rode fine but it felt like it had too much body roll when hitting a bump/hole while turning into a driveway, so I went down a little. Filled it with JB weld(caped both ends well) and drilled another hole.


this pic of the shims isn’t what I ended up with but is a good way to keep up with changes as you go.

Diagram is....
Rebound
Piston
Compression

Front 27/98 give or take
—NUT
—-.8-.020
——.9-.015
———1.1-.015
————1.3-.010
—————1.4-.010
[a single 1/16 bleed]
[hole in the piston. ]
——————- 1.6-.006
—————1.4-.004
—- .8-.20
————1.3-.008
———-1.1-.008
——-.9-.008
—-.8-.020
——————-rate plate

Rear #20/97(?)
—NUT
——.8-.020
——-.9-.015
———1.1-.015
————1.3-.015
————-1.4-.015(x2)
[single 1/8 hole in the]
[piston for bleed ]
—————-1.6-.006
—————1.4-.004
—.8-.020
——1.1-.006
———-1.3-.006
——.9-.006
—.8-.020
—————rate plate


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  #10  
Old 11-25-2018, 02:53 PM
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Results are? I really think the 3"kings are coming soon on my truck. I like these 2.0 fox with Carli valving but I feel like it could be much better also. I haven't got to the point you have to bother with it. My 2.5" kings on my excursion had more plush ride with better control than I have now

But that was a leaf spring truck and I hate to try to compare the two
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2015 F250 platinum, flopro 5", jones turbine 5050xl, polished No Limit stage 2/pg 7 and prefilter intake, h&s intercooler pipe(throttlebody-gone) and half ccv reroute, jenny craig, sotf gear hedd tune, Rigid DOT fogs, Chinese 40" radius led, amp steps, weathertechs, edge cts2, titan tank, dieselsite fuel filter, blue ox gooseneck, Hellwig bars, retrofit projectors, linex plat, retrax cover,full Carli 2.5" backcountry,fox 2.0 res shocks, toyo rt 37", OUO ala & bars
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