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  #41  
Old 04-02-2019, 12:34 PM
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greyford1979 greyford1979 is offline
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How do you guys go about replacing head studs without removing the heads? I know to do it one at a time in the proper sequence, just wasn't sure what torque spec to start out with. I'm assuming to start with the final torque number on the oe head bolts?
  #42  
Old 04-02-2019, 01:05 PM
Zeb Zeb is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greyford1979 View Post
How do you guys go about replacing head studs without removing the heads? I know to do it one at a time in the proper sequence, just wasn't sure what torque spec to start out with. I'm assuming to start with the final torque number on the oe head bolts?
I like to follow the factory torque pattern, and torque them to ARPís spec. 125 ft lbs iirc.
The way I look at it, the OE bolts are tight, and when you install the stud and torque it it is like going to the next higher spec in the sequence.
  #43  
Old 04-02-2019, 02:01 PM
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greyford1979 greyford1979 is offline
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Originally Posted by Zeb View Post
I like to follow the factory torque pattern, and torque them to ARPís spec. 125 ft lbs iirc.
The way I look at it, the OE bolts are tight, and when you install the stud and torque it it is like going to the next higher spec in the sequence.
Ok thanks! That's kinda what I figured. I just saw different but similar answers when I searched old google. Just wanted to make sure so that I don't have to redo it after I have the engine in the truck lol.
  #44  
Old 04-12-2019, 10:41 PM
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I finished swapping over pushrods and valve springs today so that I can get the engine in the truck tomorrow. I was spinning it over by hand to make sure the all the pushrods were moving and valves were opening and closing. Once I saw everything was ok, I installed my new glow plugs and decided to turn the engine over by hand again. Could barely turn it over. Removed glow plugs and turns over easily again. I'm assuming I still have quite a bit of oil in the cylinders? Thought I did a good job vaccing them out, but I'm guessing I didn't.
  #45  
Old 04-13-2019, 10:39 AM
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Remove the GPs, put the valve covers back on and crank it. Insert a couple bolts in each cover because the oil can blow the covers off.
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  #46  
Old 04-13-2019, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by mandkole View Post
Remove the GPs, put the valve covers back on and crank it. Insert a couple bolts in each cover because the oil can blow the covers off.
I got the rest of it out. I was just stupid, I was trying to crank it with the regular short ratchet with the glow plugs in to make sure nothing was binding up. Worked much better with a longer one lol
  #47  
Old 04-14-2019, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by greyford1979 View Post
I got the rest of it out. I was just stupid, I was trying to crank it with the regular short ratchet with the glow plugs in to make sure nothing was binding up. Worked much better with a longer one lol
Fyi, you can still bend stuff that way. Lol.

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  #48  
Old 04-14-2019, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by lincolnlocker View Post
Fyi, you can still bend stuff that way. Lol.

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Yeah I know lol. I just wanted to make sure I got it all back together properly. It's all good and ready to go in the truck, unfortunately my back is killing me and will be a no go till it feels better.
  #49  
Old 04-14-2019, 06:30 PM
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I’m a fan of doing a hot re torque on the head studs. Do as you please though.
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  #50  
Old 04-24-2019, 07:59 PM
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She's alive! Still gotta flush the coolant, but idling nice and moves on its own.
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