Injector testing

Wickedxrebel

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I recently replaced my HPFP and most of the fuel system from the cleaned and sumped tank all the way to the direct-to-tank return system and ******d the fuel bowl. I took a chance and did not replace the fuel rails and injectors because I did not find any metal when I replaced the fuel system. The truck runs pretty good now, but I am worried/paranoid about having a stuck open or leaking injector (From possible Debris in the system) and don’t want to melt a piston while towing my trailer up a pass. I’ve been checking my oil levels since repair and I haven’t noticed any real gains in crank case levels, but I sure wish the dipstick on these trucks were easier to read....
Anyways, if I were to take the truck to a shop, what would be some of the diagnostic tests I would want them to perform that would help show the condition of each injector? Also, if the truck seems to run well and I am not noticing any gains in crankcase oil, would it even be worth my time or even beneficial to have a shop test the injectors? Any advice moving forward would be appreciated. I love having my truck back but I’m scared to drive it!

Thanks
D
 

Wickedxrebel

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Oh and I forgot to add that the truck doesn’t smoke excessively and it starts right up with no hesitation even in cold weather
 

6.0 Tech

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Well, they can do a power balance, and check short term fuel trims. But that will honestly only tell you so much, and may be skewed by tuning. Only way to get a full picture of how your injectors are, is to send them in and have them tested. A power balance and short term check ist gonna tell you if there is something goofy with the nozzle, and its not spraying right, and little stuff like that.

Why was the fuel system worked on?

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Wickedxrebel

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Code p0088 with a no start. Didn’t find any metal flakes, rust or debris is the fuel bowl, fuel tubes, fuel pump orifices, etc upon teardown. A ford reman pump and kit was installed along with airdog 165 that draws from a cleaned and sumped tank. It then feeds to a summit racing Fuel “Y” block where the fuel temp sensor plugs in and then feeds directly to the HPFP with stainless braided lines. And AN fittings. The return is the factory hardlines out of the heads and the factory return tube with the check valve built in but the banjo for the fuel cooler has been cut off and an AN fitting attached which feeds to a 10 row oil type cooler on the frame rail and then goes to the factory return lines near the tank. The only regulator is the one built into the airdog still set at 10psi like it came. I still have the coolant tank plumbed in to the VGT actuator but the oem fuel coooler and fuel bowl are gone.
My main worry is that there was some debris in the fuel rails or tubes. that ends up sticking an injector open and having a full meltdown while towing my 5th wheel up a pass. But I would think that problematic injectors would show symptoms like maybe excess smoke, rising oil levels, maybe rough starting or idling, which I am seeing none of. I installed a CCV dleete and notice there is some blow by coming out of the CCV hose but I wouldn’t say it looks to be a problem. The truck is a 2008 with 68k miles and drives like it’s brand new. Bout 20 miles on it since new pump with lots of idling on cold mornings. I don’t mind sprinting money but only if it’s going to be of real benefit. Thanks for any advice.
 

jordysoso

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If you had a hung injector you'd be making oil and yes our dipsticks are a pain to read reliably. I agree with 6.0 tech, if an injector isn't spraying properly you'd have to send them in to get tested. You're not throwing any codes right now are you? If you have a reliable shop, they may be able to clean your whole system to give you piece of mind if that's what you're looking for
 
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