Resurgence of a F100

lincolnlocker

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Higher stall drives fine, but you need good trans cooling. They build more heat if you're under the stall speed a lot (you would be w 3.07s). Make sure you understand the flash speed at your power level not the rpm you can hold against the brakes. Over camming is a slippery slope because they are weak at low rpm.

The 270H is pretty lumpy in a 302 (less lumpy in a 351) and was very responsive to a loose converter. We picked up .7 in the fox going from stock converter /3.73 to a 4000 flashing 8". It's not real street-able and must watch trans temp.

For a street truck, keep the parts balanced for good torque and power with a slightly over stock converter (2000-2200~).
Good info right there

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6speedsd

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Indeed it is. Thank you.

Sounds like I need to focus on a regear more than anything really. I'm just concerned with cruise rpms though, knowing most of my drive is at 75mph.

I hammered on it the other day from 75, up through somewhere over 100 I guess. Speedo had wrapped almost around to 0...for such an old truck with old technology suspension that thing gets scarily smooth over 85 or so. So scary that I let out and coasted back down....just one of those weird gut feelings I guess. Almost like it was floating...only other time I've experienced that was 100+ in a 74 Lincoln Continental.

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6speedsd

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Finally got with the guy that had the 351w crate engine. He reposted the ad a couple weeks ago with a new price of $650, which I’d be dumb to pass on. Phone number he listed isn’t right. Guy claims it’s a wrong number, and there’s no way to reply to the ad via email. Kinda hard to sell something when you leave an inaccurate phone number. Oh well....maybe it’s a fake.


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6speedsd

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Since that deal fell through, I’m considering a head upgrade for the 302 for the time being. Whenever I do upgrade to the 351w, the heads are interchangeable, so I’m not out anything really. I’ve been looking at the different options for a while now. Seems the general consensus is a set of AFR 165’s is the “best” choice, but there are a ton of options in the $1200-1300 range. TFS, Ford X, Edelbrock.....all seem to have comparable feature, but is there a significant difference in a $1700 set of heads over a $1300 set?

Also, cc’s..I’m under the impression stock E7 heads are around 64cc and something like 8.8:1 CR. Running a 58cc would give me a higher CR, but what would be more ideal given my goal....58, 60, or a 62? I don’t want to raise it so much that I have to start running 93 octane. Am I flirting with PV clearance issues if I drop to the 58? It’s a 92 block, so it has the factory forged pistons with 4 valve relief cuts (I’m pretty sure it was 4 and not 2). Sticking with either the 260H, or maybe slightly larger...500ish lift max I’d say.

I read an article where they tested several heads in that price range, and the TFS gained more flow and better numbers than the Ford X head, and Edelbrock was below the Ford. I mean if the AFR’s REALLY ARE more superior to any other I’ve listed, then it’d be worth saving a while longer and getting those.


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mandkole

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The new complete production alum heads often need to be massaged to get right. Valve seats, spring rate and guide clearance should on the list to be double checked. It's easy to spend money twice on these things-- I'd keep looking for the 351..
 

6speedsd

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Seriously? You spend $1300-1600 on a set of heads, and they still need work before you can bolt them on? The hell is up with that! I get the fact that anything mass produced will have issues, but we aren't talking about a set of $500 ProComp heads here...or any other Chinese junk head.


How about this for comparison....
A set of GT-40P heads, cleaned, surfaced, full TFS spring kit (springs, locks, retainers, valve seals), but no port work..... worth $700?

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mandkole

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Yep, it's an unsavory truth that happens.. out of round seats, sticking guides, surfaces not flat etc. With a cam at 500 and a 1.6 ex valve, you'll be close to being out of clearance at overlap on a stock flattop piston also. The used stock iron heads aren't worth more than 5-600 and I'd still check them before install.

If I was doing that truck, I'd save for the cubic inches.
 

6speedsd

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Yeah I know, I want cubes. But I almost hate to change considering how well this thing runs now. I mean it never misses a beat, always fires right up no matter the temp, doesn’t burn a drop of oil, coolant temps stay perfect, idles perfect...just needs more “umph”.

I was playing around with a gear ratio calculator the other day. If I go up to a 30” tire, I can bump up to a 3.73 rear and keep rpms below 3000...or right at it. I’ve been considering 20’s for a while, and could get a 30” tire when I do, which would still tuck inside the fender wells, if I picked the right offset. I really like how these trucks look with the old grey Torque thrust style rim. Like these in the attached pic. Also considering doing that with my front end if I stick to the 79 style...sort of wanting to find a 77 front end and go back to what it’s supposed to be.
4955a52f46601ed524fa87aa503c8b72.jpg



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6speedsd

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Been a while....

About to make some changes to the Pumpkin (as my buddy calls it).

Anyone have any experience with single chamber mufflers? Not necessarily the Super 10's from Flowmaster. But any single in general? I get bored with exhaust too easily. I've been trying to browse YouTube but most videos aren't that well done and it's hard to get an idea. I still want that hollow sound at idle of a chambered, especially with a lumpy cam, but I want more of a raspy sound when you get on it, sort of glasspack-ish I guess. My only concern with a single chamber is idle sound, because I don't want it to sound like any other clapped out truck with the muffler just cut off it. The Super 44's I'm running now are "ok", but like I said, I'm bored and things are changing. (Cam, heads, 1.7's, longtubes, stall) I need to go through my C4 anyways, so I figure I might as well give it a performance makeover during that process.

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lincolnlocker

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The single chamber flowmasters are fuggin a loud!! Sound awesome at idle... but are ***in loud.. think straight pipe loudness but just enough chamber to effect the sound to know that there is some sort of muffler under there...

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04MT

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I had single chamber flo masters (series 40 iirc) on my 77 ford with a swapped in 390. At the time, everyone around here seemed to have flo masters. I really liked the sound but I highly recommend a crossover pipe when running them or you're gonna get popping when you let off the gas (don't remember if you have one). I still have the flo masters sitting in the shed just waiting to swap a efi 460 into the truck because I'll for sure run them again.
 

6.0 Tech

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Open long tubes!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Or a 2 chamber like the 40 series. Just changed to a non catted xpipe on my fox body, and it changed the sound a **** ton from the factory catted h pipe, both running thru 40s. I like the x sound better personally, but you will need a crossover of some sort as stated otherwise it'll sound like ****. Unless open long tubes, I'll throw that out there again...

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lincolnlocker

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Open long tubes!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Or a 2 chamber like the 40 series. Just changed to a non catted xpipe on my fox body, and it changed the sound a **** ton from the factory catted h pipe, both running thru 40s. I like the x sound better personally, but you will need a crossover of some sort as stated otherwise it'll sound like ****. Unless open long tubes, I'll throw that out there again...

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But to daily with open long tubes? I don't care what motor it is, that will be ***in loud and not good for daily use if you wanted to talk to anyone riding with you. Lol

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6.0 Tech

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But to daily with open long tubes? I don't care what motor it is, that will be ***in loud and not good for daily use if you wanted to talk to anyone riding with you. Lol

live life full throttle
Yeah I know, but they sound so cool for about half an hour... But thats why they make electric dumps, right?

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6speedsd

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Electric cutouts have been tossed around in my twisted brain for a while!

Currently have a H-pipe on it now.

Seems like every body around here runs a 40 series on EVERYTHING...partly why I originally went with the Super 44's, just to be different. Well originally originally I had a set of 15" round straight through Magnaflows, and while they sounded good, you lose that "hollowness" at idle that you get with a chambered. Maybe I should just buy a few different types, weld flanges on either end, and when I get bored every 6 months with the sound just unbolt one and bolt on another. Exhaust sound has always been one of those things I've been super picky about.

Heard a few sound clips of a Hooker Aerochamber....damn do those sound nasty once the rpms get up there!

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