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Old 05-18-2011, 09:31 PM
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Default Tech info, performance

6.0 Header parts list

16- 3c3z*9s425*AA manifold bolts
02- 6C3Z*9448*A 6.0 manifold gaskets
04- W300013 uppipe bolts (i forgot nuts) non shouldered ( i didnt use these ones but your manifolds might require them i dont know)
04- W302352 uppipe bolts shouldered <<< bolts i ended up using
16- 3C3Z*9A461*AA Spacers for manifold bolts
02- 8C3Z*6N640*A uppipe gaskets @ turbo


04- w302494 nut - these are the nuts from a 6.4 up pipe to manifold as the 6.0 ones are insane,y expensive for the same thing.

These are the nuts to use for the up pipe to manifold connection. I know they are like $2ea and the ones listed for the 6.0 are $15ea.
You'll need manifolds, and uppipes to adapt, elite offers some

Last edited by Dzchey21; 05-23-2011 at 07:04 AM.
  #2  
Old 05-18-2011, 09:36 PM
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Wastegate info curtesy of BFT

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This is here for all to see, read and to give informative info. This will also be followed with some installation pics both current and old. Mike (bigrpower) let me take a couple pics of his set up with the precision wastegate, thanks Mike!
Once again all questions and input are welcome.

Inside the wastegate is a diaphragm which creates a seal, and a spring which holds the wastegate closed. Spring rates vary depending on the amount of boost you want to run, typically they are given in a "bar" value for example 1 bar would be 14.7psi. This would mean that in order to open the wastegate you would need to excerpt a greater pressure than the 14.7psi spring holding the wastegate closed. In order for the wastegate to work you must have the compressor reference port hooked up to the compressor side of the turbo, if you don't have this vacuum line attached than the boost pressure will not be limited to the set spring pressure; it will build unlimited boost pressure until your engine is destroyed.

Normally pressure from a spooling turbo pushes against the diaphragm (though the vacuum line attached to the compressor reference port) which in turn pushes against the wastegate spring. When the pressure from the spooling turbo exceeds the spring pressure the wastegate's plunger opens releasing the excess pressure through the dump tube into the exhaust after the turbo or to open atmosphere. Typically, if you use the wastegate to control your boost levels you will experience a decrease in power and spool times. Why? Although the spring fully opens at its set spring pressure it tends to begin opening before reaching the set spring pressure. This "pre-opening" leaks boost pressure through the dump tube before max boost pressure is reached resulting in a decrease in power mostly toward the top end. This can be corrected by using a boost controller.

In order to run a manual boost controller we need to tee off of the vacuum line which runs from the turbo compressor housing to the compressor reference port. The manual boost controller works using a spring and check ball, by screwing the adjusting screw into the boost controller you put more pressure on the spring which reduces the amount of airflow through the boost controller and into the boost controller port. Less airflow means less pressure will be assisting the spring to keep the wastegate plunger shut. The pressure in the vacuum line going to the compressor reference port will equal the pressure the turbo is producing. A boost controller will allow you to direct some of that pressure to the top of the wastegate diaphragm creating two opposable forces. By adjusting the spring pressure of the boost controller you can vary the amount of boost that the turbo will make before opening the wastegate's plunger. If you want to run a higher boost level than the wastegate spring allows you will need a boost controller.


The manual boost controller is a very simple device that can help you make more power from your turbo setup. Here are three additional things to keep in mind about wastegates:

Without a line running from the compressor housing to the wastegate's compressor reference port boost pressures will keep increasing forever. This will quickly destroy your engine!

Run a wastegate as close to the desired boost pressure as possible this will help the boost controller handle the pressure better.

You can't reduce your desired boost pressure lower than the spring rate.

Moderator Edit: (note this is for Elites wastgate kit only, other kits may contain different springs and may alter adjustments and proceedures) After the wastegate is installed, you should have the boost reference line from the intake or CFM elbow running to the inlet side of your manual controller. From the controler the line will run to the port on the SIDE of the wastegate. You will have one other line on top of the wastegate, that is just a vent to atmosphere, put the end of that in a clean dry place.

Set up: Easiest way to monitor drive pressure vs boost pressure is to set up your dashdaq, or livewire, to read MAP (absolute) and EBP, Both of these readings will already have atmospheric pressure (11.7-14.8 depending on altitude and ambient temp) calculated into the gauge reading. This way when you are reading data logs, or glancing at your gauges during a run you dont have to figure in atmospheric pressure on the boost side, this should speed things up as well as make it a bit more accurate. Turning the wastegate clockwise will increase the pressure to the port on the side of the wastegate, thus opening the wastegate valve earlier, and dropping back pressure. Turning counterclockwise will lower boost to the gate, and thus increase back pressure
SO
Clockwise= lower back pressure
Counterclockwise= higher back pressure

I beleive elite calls for an initial adjustment of like 2 or 2.5 turns in clock wise.

You want to try and get the boost and back pressure within about 10 psi of each other, more or less is ok depending on your liking for spool up or back pressure.
  #3  
Old 05-18-2011, 09:37 PM
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Headlight dissasembly proceedure


Originally Posted by EvilTwins
1. Cleverly place Sale flyers for 50% off at Macys all over the house taking care to make the sale date and the date you want to do your project the same. To a female a sale at Macys is like crack to a crack head, irresistible.

2. Remove the headlights and all non plastic items from the housings. This includes rubber grommets from the main headlight socket, the small piece of black tape like substance from attached to the back of the housing slightly offset from the main headlight socket. Remove all three screws from the back of the housing. There are two on the top of the housing and one on the lower outside edge, and of course remove all bulbs.

3. Lock the Doors…..In case she comes home early

4. Preheat your oven to 250 degrees and remove all but one oven rack. Place that rack on the bottom most position. While you are waiting for the oven to heat up cut a piece of card board about the size of the oven rack. You will place your headlight assembly on this so the rack doesn’t leave marks in the light assy.

5. Once the oven is heated place one headlight assembly inside the oven and set your timer for ten (10) minutes. To prevent any possibility of overheating the assembly I turned the oven off when the assembly was inside.

6. Remove the housing using gloves. I used a pair of leather work gloves to handle the assembly. Right after you remove the housing set the oven to pre-heat again as you will loose about 20 to 30 degrees over the ten minute bake and you will have to put the housing back in again. (I will explain)

7. Using a couple of screw drivers, the wider the better, start prying the lens away from the backing. I started on the bottom of the light first and worked my way around the outside. This process is similar to dismounting a tire using tire irons. THIS IS NOT EASY, you have to take your time and work in small increments. DO NOT OVER STRESS THE LENS as it may crack as a result. I pried mostly on the backing as this did deform a bit but regained its original shape without issue.

8. You will only get about two or three inches of separation before the glue will cool off and you will have to put it back in for another cook session. I had to do this process about four or five times per housing.

9. Once both housings are apart you still need to remove the remainder of the bonding agent. If you don’t have a heat gun you will have to keep doing the ten minute cookers till you remove it all and have only a clean channel in the backing left. The heat gun is much faster for this process so if you don’t have one try to borrow one for the project.

10. Once all of the adhesive is gone remove the amber lens and chrome bezel from the backing.

11. As for paint you can do one of two processes. On my first housing I used a scotch bright pad and roughed up the surface, applied an adhesion promoter (Dupli-color), and painted the bezel with a semi-gloss enamel. On the second bezel I skipped the scotch bright step and the over all result was slightly better. The adhesion promoter works well for providing a nice chemical bond. I got my paint and adhesion promoter at Auto-Zone.

12. I did the same steps on the amber lens to make them black.

13. Once the paint was completely dry I re-assembled the bezel and reattached it to the lens. I was careful to clean all surfaces prior to reassembly as any fingerprints or particles will be sealed in for good.

14. I then purchased a tube of black RTV silicone and placed a generous bead along the channel located in the backing. Press the assembly together. Once together I used a tie down to keep pressure on the assembly. Not too much as it will cause the lens to flex and when you remove the tie down it will flex back, possibly causing a seal leak.

15. I used the tie down for about an hour then removed it once the silicone dried to the touch. I then used three pieces of blue painters tape to secure the lens overnight.

16. The next morning I applied another bead of silicone along the seam and let it set for about two hours. I then reinstalled the rubber light grommets, screws, and tape.

17. Reinstall the housings and buy the wife flowers cuz she will be pissed about locking her out. This process took me about six hours alone, probably could have gotten it done faster with a second set of hands.

I hope this helps and I will certainly answer any questions.
  #4  
Old 05-18-2011, 09:38 PM
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head stud compareson

Ok so I've got it. First off I want to tell ellite they use one he'll of a great material. These studs will be able to be re torqued many times and are safe well above 300ft lbs. I would torque 30 or so ft lbs higher every time the are retorqued tho.


So the H-11 studs torqued at 190 ft lbs make 31,992psi of load and that's at just 60% of yeild. Amazing


The ARP-1000s torqued at 325 ft lbs make 37944 psi of load bit that is torqued at 85% of yeild. ARP claimed 75%. Liars.

The yeild strength of H-11 is 215,000 and ARP is 180,000.

Conclusion is they both work and the ARP is plenty sufficiant but if you plan on your motor coming apart more than one time after installation spent the money and get the H-11. Now for people like myself who don't plan on making more than 700 whp the arps work just fine and have a higher clamping force initallly. But of you are unsure of your future plans go with ELITES H-11.

Hope this helps. Please don't make me post all my math and formulas esspecially since my studs lost. Lol. Take forever
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Old 05-19-2011, 10:21 PM
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Injector Nozzle swap

The nozzles are a mofo, i dont know if anyone told you about them but i will try and break it down

Clamp the injector in the vise nozzle up.
Remove the carbon dam washer from the nozzle
Use a seal pick to get as much carbon off the nozzle as you can (brake cleaner and a wire brush work well too)
Use a 15/16 box wrench to loosen the cup on the injector
only turn about 1/8 of a turn
Take a rubber mallet or a no bounce hammer and tap on the nozzle
Continue turning another 1/8 and tap again

This is a good time to tighten the cup and then loosen back to your 1/4 out
Turn another 1/8 or so, The nozzle should be staying still on the injector, and the cup should spin freely around the nozzle Once you get about 1/2- 3/4 of a turn out, push down hard on the nozzle with your rubber mallet (two people work nice for this job)
Keep pushing down on the nozzle untill the cup/nut is all the way off, now remove the nut
Once you get it apart you will see why you DO NOT want the nozzle to turn on the injector. there are two dowels in the injector that hold the nozzle in place, and are spring loaded, that locate the fuel supply hole, if the nozzle turns in the cup it will break the dowels off and the injector is RUINED, so you will have to make a trip to the dealer and waste 300+ bucks to get a new one. Take your time, if you have to keep tightening and loosening the nut a couple times to make sure the nozzle has broke free from the cup.


Assembly is pretty simple, nozzle goes on the injector body, cup goes over everything, push down on the nozzle as you hand tighten the cup, torque cup toe 50 ft/lbs


INFO COMES FROM WHITE MONSTER:

Well I managed to get all the injectors disassembled without breaking them, wasn't near as bad as i thought it was going to be. A big thanks goes out to Dustin(Dzchey21), without his step by step I would've had to make some phone calls. I took pics as I went along on one of the injectors, pics aren't great as I was using my iphone.

looking at the nozzle from the tip and side, I alredy removed the carbon dam and I had also scraped the carbon around the nozzle base with a seal pick.



Removal of the nozzle retaining body, it's on the anvil of the vice, alot of carbon dropped inside it so I will have to clean it out the tip of it later


Nozzle removed, you can see where Dustin was refering to the dowels possibly breaking during disassembly


this is the nozzle ontop of my wastegate housing, sorry for the crppy photo. A better photo will come of the new nozzles when they arrive.
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1979 F-150 6.0 Swap in progress, 86mm LP turbo, 04 frame and interior
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Old 07-15-2011, 09:14 PM
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Brake back dating parts list for a 4wd

- 532591 12.9 M14x40 metric cap screw x8
- CCA18-B4752 Cardone Ford 2003 F350 4wd right rear brake caliper(with mounting bracket) x 2
- CCA18-B4753 Cardone Ford 2003 F350 4wd left rear brake caliper(with mounting bracket) x2
- AE7626M brake pad set x2
- 48-86823 NAPA Ford 2003 4wd premium rear brake rotor x 4
- 8C3Z 6W650 A Ford 6.0 diesel turbo to exhaust outlet silicon hose x1
- LM104949 NAPA Ford 1999-2004 F350 rea axle wheel bearing x2
- 916X3X11ST HD plus (9/16" diameter 3" wide 11" high) square-top HD spring u-bolt x4
- UBW65 HD plus (9/16") thick u-bolt washer x8
- DN9/16GR8 HD plus(9/16") deep u-bolt nut x 8
- HUB 184 Motorcraft 1999-2004 Ford F350 super duty rear axle hub assembly x2
- BRS 116 Motorcraft 1999-2004 Ford F350 super duty rear axle wheel seal x2
- F81Z 1244 AB Ford 1999-2004 F350 super duty rear axle bearing x2
- F81Z 4670 AA Ford 1999-2004 F350 super duty rear axle slinger x2
- 1/8 alum rivets x8
- 62747 M14X2.0X40 PLTD GR 10.9 MTRC HH C/S x4
- M14 GR 10 metric flat washer x8
- 88449 1/4 USS TRU-TORQ x1
- 88452 3/4 USS TRU-TORQ x1

Machine work

- 2 of the 4 rear rotors need to be machined for clearance in the front. The parking drum and the pilot.
- 4 wheel spacers 3/16" thick. Front and rear are the same thickness but the rear is a different pilot diameter
- 4 bushings for rear calipers. 16.25mm x 14.45mm x 19.10mm
(O.D) (I.D) (Long)

Supposedly this is a royal pain in the a*s. The rear is fairly strait forward but the front requires verbal persuasion.

If anyone needs assistance I can direct you to the shop that did this to Roger Smith's truck, just PM me.

Ryan
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'09 sc/sb 2wd 6.4... Triple turbo 66mm/62 x 2, BD Diesel exhaust manifolds, II Dragonfire, Elite 110 injectors, Elite fuel bowl omit, Dirty Diesel ported fuel rails, Fass titanium 260gph, Carrillo rods, IH HD pistons, Elite zero gap rings, Colt stage 2 cam, Elite stage 1 heads, Dirty Diesel custom intake manifold, all fab and mechanical work done by Dirty Diesel Customs. MCC tuned.

Last edited by Kind; 07-15-2011 at 09:36 PM.
  #7  
Old 07-15-2011, 09:15 PM
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dude, this is awesome, can i copy this and put it in the library?
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1979 F-150 6.0 Swap in progress, 86mm LP turbo, 04 frame and interior
  #8  
Old 07-15-2011, 09:18 PM
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Yep, I didn't know where else I should put it.
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'09 sc/sb 2wd 6.4... Triple turbo 66mm/62 x 2, BD Diesel exhaust manifolds, II Dragonfire, Elite 110 injectors, Elite fuel bowl omit, Dirty Diesel ported fuel rails, Fass titanium 260gph, Carrillo rods, IH HD pistons, Elite zero gap rings, Colt stage 2 cam, Elite stage 1 heads, Dirty Diesel custom intake manifold, all fab and mechanical work done by Dirty Diesel Customs. MCC tuned.
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Old 07-16-2011, 02:52 PM
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I forgot to add... kinda of important lol.

- Build adapter plate for front calipers 3/8" thick.

Also when mounting the front calipers the new bolts need to be shaved down flush for clearance.
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'09 sc/sb 2wd 6.4... Triple turbo 66mm/62 x 2, BD Diesel exhaust manifolds, II Dragonfire, Elite 110 injectors, Elite fuel bowl omit, Dirty Diesel ported fuel rails, Fass titanium 260gph, Carrillo rods, IH HD pistons, Elite zero gap rings, Colt stage 2 cam, Elite stage 1 heads, Dirty Diesel custom intake manifold, all fab and mechanical work done by Dirty Diesel Customs. MCC tuned.
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