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  #11  
Old 09-25-2018, 01:02 PM
MeTo MeTo is offline
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Good point, I'm going to do that. A drip free 7.3, is there such an animal?
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97 F350 XL std cab, zf5, srw (converted), 4wd, 3.55s, stock rims/tires size & fresh rebuild
2 Donaldsons, 3" dp, ACs & Hydra w/PHP & 1023, DIY 60 gl tank w/6 gl sump, eFuel/Cat filters, T500, HV LPOP, Aeromotive RR, Auber instruments & IDM mod, KC Drop in SXE, boost fooler, RiffRaff bellowed up pipes, 6.0 IC & 3" plenums w/RiffRaff inserts
  #12  
Old 09-26-2018, 02:13 PM
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The new GPs are in. I compared the new set from Clay with the set I purchased from Amazon. NOT THE SAME! The Amazon GPS are 1.0 ohm and Clay's are 0.8 ohm. The GPS from Clay also have"Beru Germany 26A 0 100 226 138 11v" etched on each housing.

In conclusion, I don't believe the Amazon GPs are Motorcraft?

Would anyone have some laying around and check if anything is etched on yours?
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97 F350 XL std cab, zf5, srw (converted), 4wd, 3.55s, stock rims/tires size & fresh rebuild
2 Donaldsons, 3" dp, ACs & Hydra w/PHP & 1023, DIY 60 gl tank w/6 gl sump, eFuel/Cat filters, T500, HV LPOP, Aeromotive RR, Auber instruments & IDM mod, KC Drop in SXE, boost fooler, RiffRaff bellowed up pipes, 6.0 IC & 3" plenums w/RiffRaff inserts
  #13  
Old 09-26-2018, 02:14 PM
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CTC DEEZUL CTC DEEZUL is offline
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Keepin in mind, motorcraft is just a rebrand. The Beru ones are likely Bosch. Which is best
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  #14  
Old 09-26-2018, 02:15 PM
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0.2 ohm can also be because you breathed on one... Splitting hairs if ya ask me.
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  #15  
Old 09-28-2018, 01:49 AM
Garbage_Mechanic Garbage_Mechanic is offline
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Speaking of the valve cover drip, I would not use sealant, I would find the fit up problem. My new engine came with a set of slightly beat up but not dented valve covers. I wanted to Linex them, so I spent some time making sure they were really flat.......They didn't look that bad but once I got into it they were about as bad as some old small block Chevy tin covers. Distorted at every bolt hole. We shall see when I get it running if I was successful. I'm a pretty good tinsmith.

For small nuisance leaks, I like to pressurize the crankcase with 1 or 2 psi of air pressure. Soapy water shows you everywhere the engine isn't air (and thus oil or oil vapor) tight. I will be doing it after final assembly and before drop in.
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  #16  
Old 09-30-2018, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garbage_Mechanic View Post
For small nuisance leaks, I like to pressurize the crankcase with 1 or 2 psi of air pressure. Soapy water shows you everywhere the engine isn't air (and thus oil or oil vapor) tight. I will be doing it after final assembly and before drop in.
^^^ This right here! I sure wish I had thought of that when my engine was still on the stand.

I took them off and trued them up. I was confident the o-ring in the vcg would seal. NO! The back corner still weeps. A little less, but it still does. I had enough and weather is getting cold here in NE Wisconsin. I put grey RTV on the valve cover and bolted them down. Over three hundred miles now and no leaks yet. I know it's going to be a bugger when I need to remove it. Futzing with the the leaks is worse IMO.
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97 F350 XL std cab, zf5, srw (converted), 4wd, 3.55s, stock rims/tires size & fresh rebuild
2 Donaldsons, 3" dp, ACs & Hydra w/PHP & 1023, DIY 60 gl tank w/6 gl sump, eFuel/Cat filters, T500, HV LPOP, Aeromotive RR, Auber instruments & IDM mod, KC Drop in SXE, boost fooler, RiffRaff bellowed up pipes, 6.0 IC & 3" plenums w/RiffRaff inserts
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