replacing rocker arm

08stroker250

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Whats up guys! I'm about to pull the truck down and replace the rocker arms. It's also getting an egr d*****, new hoses, thermostats, rocker bridges, and supply tubes. Truck is a 2008 job2 with 113k on the clock. Been tooned since it had 4k on it. Everything else is stock. Its been a great truck so far and I want to keep it that way. Truck is driven about 45 miles 6 days a week to work and pulls a camper a few times a year, 300 miles one way each trip.

My questions are can I reuse the seals on the line from the fuel pump to rail or do I need a new line or just the seals?

Also whenI remove the fuel cooler do I need to get new banjo bolts and seals, or is there enough room to just move it out of the way without disconnecting the lines?

Also, every once in a blue moon I get a cylinder 3 contribution balance. Do I need to replace that injector? Its the only one thats ever done it that i can remember. I get it once maybe twice a year.

Also, are the aftermarket fuel supply tubes, rail to injector, as good as the OE tubes?

I'm also going to pull the intercooler and radiator out to clean the fins and what not.

Do you guys have any other suggestions on what else might need to be replaced as far as preventative maintenance or any helpful hints on the whole process?
Sorry for all the questions and long post. Just want to have all my ducks in a row. Thanks!
 

sootie

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Not sure what seals you are talking about on the pump to rail lines. They are a one time use steel line. All fuel lines touched must be replaced.

The fuel cooler will swing out of the way with all lines still attached.

Do a power balance test to determine the health of your injectors. If you were anal, you would get them flow benched.

I have to ask-why the tear down? Are there broken rockers? Have you inspected them to see if the ball studs are work down? Just seems like a weird thing to do preventatively...
 

08stroker250

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Nothing is broken. I can deffinently tell the passenger side is louder and has a more pronounced tap sound. Also as the engine revs increase before converter lock, it has a tapy clacky sound to it and goes away as revs decrease. It's not as loud as some of the videos I've heard. Just noticed that it has gotten louder than I reember it being. I planned on pulling the valve cover and inspecting before I made a deffinite decision.

Will a dealer do a power balance test? I don't know of a good diesel shop in my area since I do most of all my own work. Im located between Auburn and Montgomery Alabama. Who do you recomend for a flow bench test and round about how much does it run? I trust y'alls opinion. I've read many post for a long time on here and can tell who has their crap together and who doesn't.
 

sootie

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Just for fun i would change tuning and see if that noise your describing changes. It may be injector rattle more than valve noise. Personally i would tear it down for rockers but that's just me. I would be doing head studs etc long before that.

Anyone with IDS can do the test. Try downloading FORScan. Its free and may be able to do it as well. I dont have a six four here right now to try it on.

River City Diesel is who i would trust for flow benching common rail stuff. I bet Exergy would do it too but i'm not sure.
 

08stroker250

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I might try the tunning. I did notice my rail pressure was only 5-5100 psi when I ran the diagnostic. I cleared the code and fired it back up after a bit and it was idling normal with 5500-5600 psi. I've run S******/P****** tooning since day one. Always the 250 or 275 and never had an issue. I don't really want to do studs and HG. It's never had a problem with puking and still has the original radiator. I've lost a little coolant due to the radiator hose connecting to the thermostat housing leaking a drop or two.

I've never heard of FORScan. It use a laptop to connect to the OBDII port I take it? Where do I get a conncetor from? Sorry if I sound ignorant to this.

I didn't think of RCD. If I decide to have that done it will be them for sure!
 

sootie

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I would try better tooning that that. Get an H&S device and run custom tunes on there from Gear Head. It would make more power, be cleaner and safer than what you are currently running. HG's are more of a reliability concern than rocker arms imo

you just need a bluetooth obd adapter for FORScan. ELM 27 on amazon.
 

mohead1

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Knowing rockers are an issue on these engines, i opened mine up and checked at 100k miles. They were shot w alot of wear in the bridges too. Replaced everything w Alliant parts, including the supplies to the injectors and the lines from HPFP to the fuel rails. Its easier taking the fuel rails out. Special torque on the supply lines and its a bitch with cab on but i did it, using extentions and crows foot

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08stroker250

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I'm going to open it up maybe this weekend or early next week. I'm really leaning toward rockers. I just drove it to get lunch and it's not a noise that I'm used to hearing from this engine. But I'll get it torn down and check it out.

What size crow foot is it? I don't even have a crow foot wrench.

For the egr ****** I was going to go with the no limit kit with the elbow. I suppose it will be fine unless there is something better? Not asking for a product bashing just asking cause there are some better than others.
 

mohead1

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Dont remember on the crows foot, 1/2" i think. Look up installation directions, there is a sequence actually...not sure why....but there is

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6.0 Tech

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All the lines are 17mm except the nuts on the supply/return on the hi pressure pump, which are 19mm.
 

mohead1

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17mm ?? Dont remember them being that big....thats almost 11/16

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6.0 Tech

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Yup. I guess i should clarify, the line itself isnt that big, just the nuts on the line.
 

mohead1

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Huh, seems like they were smaller, but good info

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08stroker250

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Got another question for y'all. I know they don't oil worth a turd on the top end. Is there a better oil that might protect them better?
I change every 5k regardless so it may not.
I've been running T6 CJ4 the last couple of oil changes and been satisfied. Now all I can find is CK4 everywhere I've looked. Is there any CK4 recomended oil? The T6 I have on hand is CK4 only, not the CK4/SN.
What do you y'all recommend?
 

6.0 Tech

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Contact jimdawg on here and get some LE oil. Hes down in the sponsor section under elite lubrication specialists or something like that.
 

Baysideburner

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When I Inspect the rocker end is it just a visual inspection? Do I need to use a feeler gauge between the ends and the bridges?what is the depth of the rocker tips before they get beyond a wear point?.I'm In almost the same position 113000 on clock 2008. I really feel like for a few hrs of work this is something I absolutely want to Inspect for piece of mind.

Brian long island
 

sootie

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When I Inspect the rocker end is it just a visual inspection? Do I need to use a feeler gauge between the ends and the bridges?what is the depth of the rocker tips before they get beyond a wear point?.I'm In almost the same position 113000 on clock 2008. I really feel like for a few hrs of work this is something I absolutely want to Inspect for piece of mind.

Brian long island

pretty easy to do a visual. it is a ball with a little stud on it. how short the stud is, is how worn they are. Look at a new one so you know what you are looking at.

feeler gauge isnt much help due to having hydraulic lifters.
 

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