First dyno run 250/200's on PMR's

CurtisF · Aug 5, 2011

Just got back home from making some runs on the dyno. Made 408hp.... still rocking the PMR's. Those are corrected numbers. I didn't get a printout of the uncorrected numbers.

Anyway, motor is still alive, and I'll be at Truck Fest on Sunday to make some passes. I need to make a few tweaks to timing before then.... it was pulled waaaaaaay to far back. That's what I get for being too cautious.

On edit: Almost forgot, my daily driver tune (base tune) that I've been dialing in made 3 passes, averaging about 310hp. I was guessing it was somewhere around 300+, felt like a stock injectored truck with a higher HP tune.

Diezel Dawg · Aug 5, 2011

Come on Curtis, dont be skeered!!! turn that beotch up!!!

CurtisF · Aug 5, 2011

Diezel Dawg said:
Come on Curtis, dont be skeered!!! turn that beotch up!!!

LOL I am trying to keep the motor together.... at least for a little while.

JAP · Aug 5, 2011

That's awesome Pocket. How smokey is the 400 hp tune with so little timing? Any video?

CurtisF · Aug 5, 2011

JAP said:
That's awesome Pocket. How smokey is the 400 hp tune with so little timing? Any video?

Austin recorded video for me. I just haven't downloaded it off the camera yet. As for the amount of smoke... I'm pretty sure the polar bears are f*cked, if that's any indication. LOL

JAP · Aug 5, 2011

Damn. I was hoping you pulled it off without too much. That would be really cool.

PTSUPERD · Aug 5, 2011

Nice Curtis!

Magnum PD · Aug 5, 2011

I would have another block on hand if I were you.

silverpsd_06 · Aug 5, 2011

Do you do your own tuning pocket???

strokin'_tatsch · Aug 5, 2011

silverpsd_06 said:
Do you do your own tuning pocket???

Yes he does.

TARM · Aug 5, 2011

Just remember timing and total tq are critical. You can roll into the higher RPMs some what with those larger nozzles yet still keep your TQ down but get more HP out of it from the longer RPM band.

What was the RPMS of the peaks? what were the TQ numbers?

JAP · Aug 6, 2011

That's what I was wondering. It'd be nice to hold the fuel and timing back until high up into the range and then start adding fuel and timing until you reach somethin close to 500.

David N · Aug 6, 2011

Mine is bdp tuned and its one smokey biatch. Lol

TARM · Aug 6, 2011

IMO, that is it and the key is to keep that tq down. I personally (others should know better than I such as Matt @ gearhead) would not want to see over 850-900 tq max.

Matt could explain all this so much better but that is also his livelihood even though he has been willing to help others in the past. Bill or Cody I am sure could do likewise.

Basically IMO it would be nice to have tq rather than jump'n up and flat line to instead curve upward like the gassers do for HP/TQ

All the tuning tables would drive me crazy for a long time until I learned how they are meshed together.

I have an idea how to do it but I simply do not know the tables terms inside them etc to explain it correctly. Hence the need for experienced tuners to lend a hand. I would screw it up bad trying to explain it as how I understand it. One thing at a time for this grasshopper.

That 38r will likely limit you somewhat. A properly controlled waste gate would be helpful as well.

CurtisF · Aug 6, 2011

TARM said:
Just remember timing and total tq are critical. You can roll into the higher RPMs some what with those larger nozzles yet still keep your TQ down but get more HP out of it from the longer RPM band.

What was the RPMS of the peaks? what were the TQ numbers?

If you want any indication of how far back the fueling and timing were pulled... peak torque was only 680. LOL

Mainly it was just me being over-cautious. I really do want to keep the motor together. This was the first time to open up the injectors past 1.75 ms at WOT. Now I just need to dial the timing in by ramping it up a little bit at a time.

CurtisF · Aug 6, 2011

TARM said:
IMO, that is it and the key is to keep that tq down. I personally (others should know better than I such as Matt @ gearhead) would not want to see over 850-900 tq max.

Matt could explain all this so much better but that is also his livelihood even though he has been willing to help others in the past. Bill or Cody I am sure could do likewise.

Basically IMO it would be nice to have tq rather than jump'n up and flat line to instead curve upward like the gassers do for HP/TQ

All the tuning tables would drive me crazy for a long time until I learned how they are meshed together.

I have an idea how to do it but I simply do not know the tables terms inside them etc to explain it correctly. Hence the need for experienced tuners to lend a hand. I would screw it up bad trying to explain it as how I understand it. One thing at a time for this grasshopper.

That 38r will likely limit you somewhat. A properly controlled waste gate would be helpful as well.

Yep, I wanted to keep torque down. That was my goal to start with on this first time opening it up. I still have a long way to go on the tuning, and it's a long slow process.

As for the 38R, I'm not too worried about it. Even when I do finally get my tuning dialed in like I want it, I probably won't be pushing it to the ragged edge. After all, I'm not even running studs, springs... nuthin'. Just a bone stock PMR motor and heads.... with a 38r, fuel bowl delete, a transmission, and a few other useless nick knacks.

So that's why I'm being so cautious. I have several things that could easily go wrong if I get a bit over zealous.

TARM · Aug 6, 2011

Yes you were being careful. I kn ow if I was doing my own tuning pucker factor would have been off the chart. LOL

You have a better hold of all this as you are playing with it all. But my guess would be do whatever to PW ICP to bring a 800-850 tq. But start lower and bring it up with RPMS. Set that PW as your max or how ever that works. Then I know there is a table that correct SOI for RPMS to keep it from retarding as RPMS increase. So that holds it. Then slowly advance the SOI say around where the TQ peaks and starts to drop. But of course keeping it in the sweet range the whole time whatever that works out to in crank shaft degrees to keep the stress on the rods, their bearings and wrist pins in proper alignment. Not sure what tune changes etc there is after the TQ starts to fall to extend that HP. I know I am likely boggering this up but hopefully thru it you get the idea of what I am trying to say LOL. Basically ramp both HP and TQ up rather than any flat lines and keep Tq which is CP below a set limit and SOI in the sweet crank degree angles. See how far that will extend out the TQ peaking @ 850 and where that can take HP carried out to.

I am starting to look into those CP monitoring logging systems. As that is a tool that could be golden for tuning and now costs have gotten out of the 10s K and down to 1/2 that.

TARM · Aug 6, 2011

Pocket said:
Yep, I wanted to keep torque down. That was my goal to start with on this first time opening it up. I still have a long way to go on the tuning, and it's a long slow process.

As for the 38R, I'm not too worried about it. Even when I do finally get my tuning dialed in like I want it, I probably won't be pushing it to the ragged edge. After all, I'm not even running studs, springs... nuthin'. Just a bone stock PMR motor and heads.... with a 38r, fuel bowl delete, a transmission, and a few other useless nick knacks.

So that's why I'm being so cautious. I have several things that could easily go wrong if I get a bit over zealous.

Heres the great thing if you keep CP down where the PMRs need to be as we think there is no need for any of than other than properly shimmed 910s as RPMS will certianly effect that and could create flow and bounce.

CurtisF · Aug 6, 2011

TARM said:
Yes you were being careful. I kn ow if I was doing my own tuning pucker factor would have been off the chart. LOL

You have a better hold of all this as you are playing with it all. But my guess would be do whatever to PW ICP to bring a 800-850 tq. But start lower and bring it up with RPMS. Set that PW as your max or how ever that works. Then I know there is a table that correct SOI for RPMS to keep it from retarding as RPMS increase. So that holds it. Then slowly advance the SOI say around where the TQ peaks and starts to drop. But of course keeping it in the sweet range the whole time whatever that works out to in crank shaft degrees to keep the stress on the rods, their bearings and wrist pins in proper alignment. Not sure what tune changes etc there is after the TQ starts to fall to extend that HP. I know I am likely boggering this up but hopefully thru it you get the idea of what I am trying to say LOL. Basically ramp both HP and TQ up rather than any flat lines and keep Tq which is CP below a set limit and SOI in the sweet crank degree angles. See how far that will extend out the TQ peaking @ 850 and where that can take HP carried out to.

I am starting to look into those CP monitoring logging systems. As that is a tool that could be golden for tuning and now costs have gotten out of the 10s K and down to 1/2 that.

TARM said:
Heres the great thing if you keep CP down where the PMRs need to be as we think there is no need for any of than other than properly shimmed 910s as RPMS will certianly effect that and could create flow and bounce.

My overall goal is to eventually get close to or at 450hp and stop. I'm not greedy.... well, maybe a little. But at least at that power level I know I can keep torque and CP's down to a safe enough level to keep from putting a window in the block.

Actually, I got these injectors to prove a point to myself, that larger nozzles even on a PMR motor can be beneficial. I've already seen it in towing. After all, the baseline tune I dyno'ed did 310 hp, and that's the same tune I towed a travel trailer up several mountain passes. I was able to do that with EGT's lower than stock injectors and stock tuning.

TARM · Aug 6, 2011

I think the larger the injectors nozzle to a point the safer they are in many ways. But of course if you tune it wrong they will pop it fast. I woudl not set a HP limit only a TQ limit. The HP limit should come from timing( SOI) and your tq (cp) cap you set within the fueling abilities of your injectors.. The more you tweak and tune the better in touch IMO you will get with your truck and tuning in general. So much can change as you dial things in. Maybe learn if you do not already know how to effectively use a oscilloscope in your tuning setting SOI and PW as you get more proficient.