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Old 07-03-2011, 08:03 AM
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Default IH water pump with filter.

I talked to Billy and he would like to share some of this information here that he has previously written about, so here we go.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gnxtc2 View Post
Last Jan 2009 I replaced the water pump. A year later, this happened



So I decided to gather the parts to convert over to a Int'l water pump with filter

After much research I decided to get a brand new Int'l pump. The pumps are made by Geomar, part # RW6114 ( Geomar Heavy Duty ). I bought the pump from these guys Mondial Automotive | Remanufactured and New Alternators, Carburetors, Generators, and Starters for Cars, Trucks, Vans and Boats for under $200. Int'l wanted $394. The Geomar unit is cast iron and has some weight to it. For more info New Source for International Water Pump - NAPA - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com



I'm not going to go over on how to drain the coolant, remove fan/shround and water pump.

The boss under water outlet needs to be ground down. The boss is meant to be used with a pulley. But to retain the stock serpentine belt, it needs to be ground down.

The pump has multiple ports. The plugs come with the pump and plug them as needed. The heater hose that goes over the alternator could now be relocated. Also the degas bottle hose that "tee's" into the lower rad hose get eliminated and so does the lower rad hose. They get moved to the water inlet. This where to install the barb fittings.

You are going to need different lengths bolts, some of the stock would work but I bought all new bolts from Int'l. The pump takes the longer T-stat.

After I installed the water pump, as I began to install the water pump pulley and it was hitting the pump body. WTF A little investigation revealed that the raised casting number was hitting. Some more grinding got rid of it. I also opted to grind the backside of the pulley slightly for extra clearance.

I re-used the upper hose and water outlet because I replaced them last year and they were in good shape.

Parts:

- Water pump (Geomar RW6114) or Int'l 1831676C92
- 30 mm bolts (Int'l 1817958C1) need 3
- 60 mm bolts (Int'l 1817811C1) need 2
- 110 mm bolts (Int'l 1818693C1 need 4
- Fleatguard WF2071 coolant filter 4 SCA
- Lower hose NAPA 8763 (Dodge Cummins 89-93 I think)
- T-stat (Int'l 1823417C92) 192*
- 2'-3' of 1" heater hose
- 3/4 NPT to 1" male barb*
- 1/2 NPT to 5/8 male barb*
* NOTE: Straight fittings could be used but 45* are better
- 3/4 NPT to 1" male barb 45* (Jeg's 100491)
- 1/2 NPT to 5/8 male barb 45* (Russell 663080)

Hint: Install the barb fittings prior to installing the water pump, don't ask me how I know I wasn't able to get the smaller 45* barb fitting on because it would hit the backpressure tube on the swing. I sleeved the heater hose with some thermal barrier I had lying around.



For more pics International water pump w/ filter pictures from trucks photos on webshots

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

Here is some other good info on the subject.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Peroni View Post
A few weeks ago I helped my neighbor put a new water pump on his PSD powered irrigation pump. The dealer we got the pump from also had the one w/ a coolant filter as part of the pump so I went back and bought it. I put it in yesterday, here are some pics.



Here it is on the motor. I put a piece of threaded rod in the extra boss then milled it all flush. Also milled off the raised casting number. I used stainless bolts and since I couldn't get flanged head in metric, I made up some washers from 5/8 304 bar stock..


Here are the fittings for the expansion tank and heater return. I got steel 45 fittings from Discount Hydraulic Hose, they are stronger and way cheaper than the alum ones from Jegs. On the water pump pulley I put it in the lathe and faced .060 off the backside, it now has about the same clearance as on the original pump.


I bought a new outlet neck too. To help stiffen up the flimsy base and equalize clamping force I made what is really just a big triangular washer that fit inside the raised outer edge. It's 1/4 thick 304 stainless, also used new longer stainless bolts. Did the trick as I have no leaks! A Stant 205 T-stat was also used. Filter is a Wix with no sca additive.


The lower radiator hose is for an 00 Dodge diesel pickup. It fit a bit loose to the radiator but the clamp sealed it tight. I used all stainless worm clamps that are lined with rolled edges.


While the coolant was drained I installed the Ford Ranger heater valve. I tapped into the blue vacuum line in the cab, it shuts off coolant flow to the heater in vent and AC positions. A very cheap and worthwhile mod!


Work was slow last week so I made my own fan clutch wrench from some 3/8 steel plate. My fan clutch did not put up a fight which was a nice surprise.


Again while the coolant was drained I did some r&r on the oil cooler. It wasn't leaking but it was pretty rusty. The tube seals were also rock hard, had to cut them off.


I planned to use the existing 1/8npt port in the filter head for an oil bypass. So while I had it off I put in some holes for my oil tamp and pressure sensors. Yes I could have put them elsewhere but I wanted them here.

The job took me about 8hrs including a few beer breaks and waiting for paint to dry. Most of that was devoted to thoroughly flushing the cooling system then getting as much water out as I could. I used DI water for the final flush as we have a lot of it at work. Refilled with Cat ELC, so far it has taken 7 3/4 gallons. Yeah I know pre 99 motors supposedly can't use but neither CAT nor IH gave no reasons not to. Plus my neighbor has had it in his 1995 irrigation pump engine for 8000+ hrs with no problems so I'll chance it. This was a fun and worthwhile little project to do.
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  #2  
Old 07-03-2011, 08:04 AM
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I made this a sticky for now we can talk about it before it goes to the library.
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Old 07-03-2011, 08:08 AM
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Some more information on the subject.

Quote:
Originally Posted by spaceballs View Post
Since doing this mod about a month ago and showing off as much as I felt was allowed, I realized the need to go back to what I promised myself that I would do: a decent write up on this thing. I really took a lot of help from renegade, manleyjt, devebuy, talford, and big red cc dually. I couldn't have done it without your help and good posts from the past. What I did feel was a little bit of a lack of confidence, and I wanted to try and alleviate some of that.



This swap does work. It is a direct bolt on replacement that doesn't require any major modifications. It is a big improvement to the hose situation, and it looks cool. Here are the parts that you will need to do the job:



from International



1831676C92 THE Water Pump

1817958C1 [x3] Bolt 30mm

1817811C1 [x2] Bolt 20mm

1818693C1 [x4] Bolt 110mm

1822653C92 Pulley, Grooved for 8-rib belt

2001804C1 Bolt to hold pulley

1823450C1 Pulley Bearing Dust Cover

1823417C92 Thermostat



from Napa [I ordered these online...]



8825 Upper Radiator Hose

8763 Lower Radiator Hose

705-1319 [x2] Hose Clamps

705-1313 [x2] Hose Clamps

705-1315 [x2] Hose Clamps

25-081213 Serpentine Belt [original app. 99-02 Super Duty??]



from O-Reilly:



MRY 85001 Thermostat housing, aluminum [highly recommended!!]



from FittingsandAdapters.com



MPT 16-12 Order this before you do anything else! It will take a while. This is the fitting that will connect the degas bottle to the pump. This is 3/4" NPT on one end and 1" Male hose barb on the other.

MPT 10-8 This will let your heater return hose run into the pump. This fitting is much more common and any parts house should have it.



You will need a T50 socket to get the old pump off and to get this one on. I also opted to buy all new heater hoses as well. I recommend Gates, which they carry at both Napa and O-Reilly. I bought about three feet of 1" heater hose for the degas bottle line and I bought about 16 feet of 5/8" hose for the heater hoses. After this mod, you do not have to worry about that annoying hose that currently probably interferes with your alternator wire. I was so happy to throw that hose bracket away...



I am not going to include a write up on the actual installation because this is no different than any other pump installation. This is a straightforward job, and if I could do it, anyone could do it. If you have any questions, please ask or PM me and I will answer them. I hope that I have answered some questions, and if there is anything that I have missed out on, let me know. I did this for all of us, and there is always room to improve.
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Old 07-03-2011, 08:18 AM
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The Navastar section will show some information on the pump with the filter head.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf HWP_Haldex_Water_Pump_2010.pdf (3.57 MB, 189 views)
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1996 F250 Powerstroke 4X4 AUTO
DP-Tuner F-6 chip live tuned, BTS Transmission, Garrett 38R Turbo, Swamps Injectors 150cc, electric fuel,
Banks Intercooler, Reflexxions Cowl Hood, 17 degree HPOP, 4" Stainless Magnaflow &
Aeroturbine exhaust, Aeroforce OBD Scan Gauge, Truxedo tonneau cover
Dana 60 Precision Metal Fab RSK and SD Springs
  #5  
Old 07-05-2011, 03:11 PM
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So is all the grinding really necessary?

Sam
  #6  
Old 07-06-2011, 05:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by genie144 View Post
So is all the grinding really necessary?

Sam
Yes and no. If you want to keep the stock belt and not add any extra pulleys they yes you will have to do some grinding. It doesn't take much, even a little 4" cheapo from Harbor Freight will do the job.

If you don't want to do any grinding then you need the extra parts and longer belt. Spaceballs did it this way, look a few posts above for his parts list. If you do a search on TDS I think you will find some pics of his or a similar setup.

I did not like the idea of adding another pulley as it is just something else that can wear out or break.
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Old 07-07-2011, 12:47 PM
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Any other benifits to this other then the filter?
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  #8  
Old 07-07-2011, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSIPSD View Post
Any other benifits to this other then the filter?
Gets rid of the heater hose fitting right in front of the access cover for the HPOP gear bolt. At least thats what I saw that impressed me, among other things.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Powerstroked162 View Post
... I don't want to be left assuming you're a dipchit. I want you to prove it to me...
  #9  
Old 07-07-2011, 01:45 PM
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seems like a worthwhile upgrade if your water pump goes out.
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  #10  
Old 07-07-2011, 02:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSIPSD View Post
Any other benifits to this other then the filter?
Rugged cast iron part, neatens up the cooling hose plumbing and can use an off the shelf hotter t-stat. I used a Stant 205 #14252 in mine. Also has a little built in on/off valve so you don't get coolant all over the place changing the filter.

Only downside is that there is not much room to get a filter wrench in there. I had to buy one from KD Tools and put it on the end of a long 1/2 extension - that did the trick.
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97 Green F-350 XLT 7.3L PSD 4x4 CC LB BTS E40D Manual Hubs 4.10 36000 miles when purchased 4/1/06. Mods - ISSPRO Performax gauges, Tymar intake, Tymar 3x4 DP to 4" ss exhaust, custom rear disc brakes, hydroboost conversion w/ 6.0 p/s pump, electric fuel, MANN CCV filter,LPF9750 oil bypass, 6.0 fan, tru-cool 4739, Swamps 200/30 injectors, Adrenaline HPOP, BASB turbo, Fluidampr, Spearco 6.0 cac.

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