Purchased a weight reduced 6.7

jurickk

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Hey guys, hoping for some guidance here.

I purchased a 2016 F-350 on saturday and I've had a crazy journey. First off, the truck runs excellent. There is a CEL for communication with the glow plug module and I have another module on the way to (hopefully) fix it. What I am looking for guidance on is modifications that were done on the vehicle prior to me obtaining it. It is obvious that some weight reduction has been done around the rear of the truck that requires a tune to run. No weight has been reduced from the engine bay and wiring appears to be connected still.

The truck came with an SCT x4. I attempted to use it to reflash the tune in an effort to diag the CEL. This is where things got scary for me. The flash failed and the SCT told me to go back to stock. I tried to go back to stock and that continually failed. I spent 3 hours on the phone with SCT and finally got to the point of them telling me the tuner needed RMAed and that I would lose any custom tunes. They did manage to get a stock tune onto the truck for me, but given the modifications that does not do me a lot of good. I immediately started scouring the internet to look for a tune that could help me and as you can imagine I got hung up on when I called places and I found nothing on the Internet. I finally found someone who would sell me a used SCT that already came loaded with the appropriate No Limit tunes for my truck. SCT told me they would not work because they were not written with strategy codes from my truck, but I took a gamble and bought it anyway. Thankfully, the tune loaded successfully and I am driving my new truck. Now I am trying to sort through my concerns and not finding a lot of information about my specific situation on the web. Questions I have:

1) Should I unplug some things from under the hood? Why/why not?
2) I have 4 custom tunes. Load first, performance, street, tow. I assume tow is closest to stock, street is more HP than stock, performance is more HP than street. Right? I don't care for adding HP, so tow is fine for me.
3) Do I have a good tuner/tunes? Should I try to find something else to support reliability of the truck?
4) I found a lead on the OEM parts off of a 2015 F350 with 20k miles on it that I would need to return my truck to stock. Given my situation, is this a wise decision? It would only cost me $800. I think I am going to buy the parts no matter what as an insurance policy for trade-in, etc... but I don't know what is better for the truck right now. The truck did not come with these parts.
5) Do I really need to speak so cryptically on this topic?

My ultimate concern is reliability of the vehicle and I would appreciate if any advice you give supports that. I don't care about adding horsepower/torque. This thing has plenty for what I need. Thank you for any help/guidance you can offer me and I apologize if I've posted in the wrong place or broken any rules.
 

sootie

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If you don't need power, reinstall the exhaust and get the latest Flash from ford.
 

jurickk

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If you don't need power, reinstall the exhaust and get the latest Flash from ford.

Thanks. So are the factory exhaust systems interchangeable between vehicles? From what I’ve read, they all seem to be the same from 2011-2016
 

sootie

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Nope. 11-12 are the same, 13-14 are the same, 15-16 are the same.
 

HeavyAssault

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I'll agree with @Sootie on MPG results, adding that I've seen the MPGs more reliable to the way I'm driving. Towing, city, highway, etc etc etc 16MPG is the norm, 18MPG is pretty easy with mixed driving, 19 MPG @ 70+MPH sustained over 8 hours of driving.
 

Connor M

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All depends on what you want. If you're into power keep the diet trucks. If you're worried about passing inspections get the stock pipes. There's a lot of high mileage reliable 6.7's with full stock exhausts, it's not like older trucks. Or at least nowhere as bad.

MPG gains are dependent on a lot. I have 2 straight piped trucks and the lighter one gets 14.x. The heavier, taller, longer, leveled, 2wd valence one with a full tank gets high 19's. Door codes says same gear ratio so go figure. Maybe tire difference.
My dad's 14 gets about 15 and it's all stock.

As for being cryptic, it seems like every week another fine goes out. For one, you don't want to get your connections popped. I see an ad for one particular company regularly advertising themselves as doing illegal mods, and naming the supplier of their illegal mods in the ad. Truly great job by that company. Their ads are all over instagram.

2, there's a chance one day the EPA comes after owners. Just because they haven't doesn't mean they won't or cant. The clean air act permits it. Don't want to get caught with your pants down, rolling coal and bragging about your modifications. In the words of mac miller "It ain't 2009 no more"

Do what you want about your own bragging but for everyone else's sake don't name drop and don't name names online. Every facebook group and website is being monitored, it doesn't require a warrant to join an FB group (or this forum) and pose as a helpless owner or just observe.
 
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lincolnlocker

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All depends on what you want. If you're into power keep the diet trucks. If you're worried about passing inspections get the stock pipes. There's a lot of high mileage reliable 6.7's with full stock exhausts, it's not like older trucks. Or at least nowhere as bad.

MPG gains are dependent on a lot. I have 2 straight piped trucks and the lighter one gets 14.x. The heavier, taller, longer, leveled, 2wd valence one with a full tank gets high 19's. Door codes says same gear ratio so go figure. Maybe tire difference.
My dad's 14 gets about 15 and it's all stock.

As for being cryptic, it seems like every week another fine goes out. For one, you don't want to get your connections popped. I see an ad for one particular company regularly advertising themselves as doing illegal mods, and naming the supplier of their illegal mods in the ad. Truly great job by that company. Their ads are all over instagram.

2, there's a chance one day the EPA comes after owners. Just because they haven't doesn't mean they won't or cant. The clean air act permits it. Don't want to get caught with your pants down, rolling coal and bragging about your modifications. In the words of mac miller "It ain't 2009 no more"

Do what you want about your own bragging but for everyone else's sake don't name drop and don't name names online. Every facebook group and website is being monitored, it doesn't require a warrant to join an FB group (or this forum) and pose as a helpless owner or just observe.
Well said my man well said!!!

My 12 got better mileage than my 15.. i get way better mileage at 55-60 with my 15 then i do at 70+... same truck and same gears. But obviously the turbo and hpfp.....

Its mostly in how you drive it...

live life full throttle
 

jurickk

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Thanks everyone for your input on this, I appreciate it. I am feeling pretty good about quitting my diet.
 

Connor M

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Well said my man well said!!!

My 12 got better mileage than my 15.. i get way better mileage at 55-60 with my 15 then i do at 70+... same truck and same gears. But obviously the turbo and hpfp.....

Its mostly in how you drive it...

live life full throttle

Thanks, I've been trying to make better posts and give back the little that I can. I know I have in the past and will need a lot of help from others here.


Anyways I think it fluctuates engine to engine too. Wear on internal components, manufacturing tolerances, etc. I can't think an engine that's had 200k hard miles with in cylinder regens is going to have the same compression ratio (and thus efficient burn) as a brand new rebuild. Add up some slipping in the trans and other wearing and you could easily see the economy differences in equivalent or even "better" trucks.
 

Connor M

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Thanks everyone for your input on this, I appreciate it. I am feeling pretty good about quitting my diet.

Shouldn't be much harder than the original process and will give you some peace of mind. Good Luck man!
 

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