ZF6 -650 rebuild and other things I've done on my early 99 7.3 F350

Dave_Nevada

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Howdy folks, I'm new here.

I haven't seen much on the topic of ZF6 transmissions here, so I thought I would start posting some of what I ran into during my refurbishing/rebuild/repair of the ZF6. I have a ton of pictures I took along the way, first hand experience in tackling this job, and stuff I learned along the way. Part numbers, how many to order, cost, source, etc. I kept a spreadsheet log of cost and information related to tool acquisition, components required and repair manuals needed to rebuild the ZF6. The stuff I have will work for 2wd or 4wd.

Okay, so lets get to it.

I will shoot straight to the bottom line on symptoms and cause.

1st off, I could no longer easily shift into gear. It got so bad that I had to shut off the engine to put it in 1st gear.

That turned out to be a worn out master cylinder shaft on the pedal tree, along with a worn pressure plate. The master cylinder shaft was fixed with a heim joint setup, and the pressure plate was fixed with a new HD clutch pack setup from Val-Air of Texas.

Next, the unit would not shift into 3 or 4th gear. When you tried, it just ground the gears.
That turned out to be the synchros on the 3-4 gear set, one of the springs and retainer plates had dropped out of the synchro housing. Luckily for me, they ended up stuck on the interior magnet that ZF installs in these things for debris.

Next, the trans had a loud and annoying gear rollover when in first or reverse. :doh:

That turns out to be bearings and a proper pre-load setting during installation.

Lastly, I decided to replace the main front case because it had cracks. apparently this is due to driveline problems. I'm not sure about that cause, but it's what I've heard. anyway, I replaced the main front case and had the driveline reconned at Bay Shore Truck here in Reno.

As an aside, I also replaced the leaking up-pipes with a set of stainless bellowed pipes from Riff-Raff in Oregon. I only want to do that job once, so I went with the best I could find.

As for the details of the ZF build, I will start posting to let you know what I did.
 
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Dave_Nevada

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I pulled the ZF6 because of a short clutch release problem along with noisy gears and grinding the gears while shifting. While down there, I noticed the fingers on the pressure plate were worn and the infamous 7.3 input shaft was toast. I also noticed somebody put that ****ty sleeve modification on the input shaft you can buy on the Internet- and in reality, it’s a band-aid on a gusher wound. It works for a while, but you’re going to be back in there because the problem isn’t solved. The problem is the input shaft needle bearing loses lube and become a grinding device on your input shaft. Do you like pulling your trans yearly? Then use that input shaft sleeve mod kit and you’ll get your wish.

Like I said, while doing my inspection, I noticed the input shaft bearing was crap. The turbo up-pipes were also leaking. First, I pulled the tranny, then took off with the flywheel to hammer out the needle bearing. I liked how that flywheel was designed, no bearing inside the crank! I didn’t have to buy a pilot bearing puller! However, instead of putting back the ‘problem generator’ needle bearing, I installed an Oilite solid bearing made for a 1968 Mustang with a toploader. It fit perfectly.

Sometimes ‘old skool’ really is better.

Input shaft bearing # Dorman 690-039 or Ford C8AZ 7600-A, D2AZ 7600-A or E3TZ 7600-A.

Putting in an oilite bearing means no more chewed up input shafts. Since the bearing is softer than the input shaft, the bearing becomes the sacrificial surface, NOT the input shaft.
 

Dave_Nevada

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Parts I used to rebuild my 2wd ZF6.

Transmission expenses
Item Source Cost Total
Mainshaft/Countershaft Bearing kit EBAY $140.00 $140.00 Ebay item- Average going price.

Synchro ring Kit All State Gear $179.60 $319.60 ZFS6-650 Synchro Ring Kit, SRK486

7.3 Input shaft All State Gear $99.00 $418.60 ZF S6-650 Input Shaft Ford, 7.3L Diesel, ZFS6-16

Needle bearing Kit All State Gear $64.77 $483.37 ZF S6-650 Needle Bearing Kit, NK-ZFS6

2nd and 3rd gear races (order 2 ) All State Gear $24.02 $507.39 ZF S6-650 S6-750 2nd - 3rd Inner Bearing Race, ZFS6-20

5th gear race All State Gear $11.10 $518.49 ZF S6-650 S6-750 5th Gear Inner Bearing Race, ZFS6-66

Reverse gear race All State Gear $11.82 $530.31 ZF S6-650 S6-750 Reverse Inner Bearing Race, ZFS6-49

Pilot Bearing Dorman 690-039 Amazon $7.00 $537.31 Dorman 690-039 has a ID of 0.673" OD of 1.379" & Length is 0.565" Clutch Pilot Bushing 1968-78 Ford

Plastic Clutch fulcrum Amazon $8.00 $545.31

Backup light switch EBAY $13.99 $559.30 Back Up Lamp Switch Standard LS200T

Shim kit Allstate Gear $29.50 $588.80

Snap Ring Kit Allstate Gear $59.60 $648.40

Synchro Key & Spring Kit, All State Gear $9.90 $658.30 Ford F250

Synchro Key & Spring Kit All State Gear $11.40 $669.70

S/H $27.07 $696.77

Main case (Front) Ebay - Allstate Gear $504.00 $1,200.77 F350 7.3 Diesel 1999-2003 ZF S650 6 MAIN CASE 5th GEAR EBAY SELLER/FREE SHIPPING

Supplies

2 Gal of cleaning solvent Home Depot $10.00 $10.00

Clean Rags – Home Depot $6.00 $16.00

(2) 5 gallon buckets Home Depot $6.50 $22.50

Gasket Maker O’ Reilly’s $4.50 $27.00

Rustoleum Paint, 2 cans Home Depot $11.00 $38.00

Pulling chain Home Depot $10.00 $48.00

Tools

OTC Tool Bearing Splitter 1124 EBAY $107.20 $107.20

Owatonna Gear Puller EBAY $57.20 $164.40 2 jaw, 12.5” reach Gear puller (used)

Steel Tube, 6”x18”, Local $50.00 $214.40 Tool for pressing gears off/on mainshaft with shop press

36mm socket ¾ drive Sears $17.00 $231.40 Removal of 2wd tailshaft nut (DO NOT USE AN IMPACT SOCKET, IT WON'T FIT, TOO FAT)

Total
$1480.17
 
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Dave_Nevada

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Some stuff to avoid and fix if you can:

Don't use another needle bearing input shaft bearing. That bearing literally ruins the input shaft. Fix it with a solid bronze bearing, Dorman 690-039

Fix the Clutch master cylinder shaft right now. It's not a matter of if, it's when it breaks. Use a heim joint setup. There's plenty of instruction on Youtube detailing this repair.

Be sensible on your selection of clutch packs. Know your limitations! You don't need an $1800 dual disk setup for a casual use truck. If you think you do, well, you're just being ridiculous.

Get rid of the stock up-pipes. Use the bellows type, do not use the donut ring type.

Service your drive-lines regularly. Honestly, you really should be looking at them every few years. This will save you a lot of money and heartache in the future. Change the U-Joints and watch the balance slugs on the drive-line. You can ruin a good pinion bearing in your rear end and crack the main ZF6 case if it's whacked out.

Remove the steering column covers and insulate the cruise control harness. (Fuse 19 blowing, lousy engine performance).

Inspect your throwout arm for cracks. While it's out, weld additional steel rod supports to the backside to enhance rigidity.
 
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Dave_Nevada

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Pulling and disassembly of the transmission

Definitely detach your exhaust down-pipe. It makes life a 1000% easier when pulling the trans. You don't have much room when the bell-housing moves rearward with the down-pipe in the way. I guarantee, if you don't, you will struggle removing and installing the ZF6 transmission.

Once loose, tie it up against the frame. Remember, the ZF6 and the 7.3 were almost shoe horned by Ford into that engine bay. That combo is actually for medium sized utility trucks up to the 26,001 lb class.

Caution: the 2wd ZF6 weighs around 240-250 lbs. (estimate). Don't be fooled by its aluminum case, it's pretty heavy. Those of you with the 4x4 setup, factor in the weight of your transfer case.

That said, use safety precautions when removing/installing. I took no chances- I used a 3" nylon cargo strap (off my car trailer) to keep the trans from slipping on the jack. I can't imagine what it would do to someone's leg if it were to fall on them. Nonetheless, I was able to remove it by myself with a hydraulic trans jack. I'm 59 years old, so no whining about 'I can't do it".

Once out, I removed the trans from the jack with my 2 ton engine hoist by attaching a chain to the top bellhousing holes and the driveshaft flange on the rear.

Set the trans on the deck (bellhousing first, tail in the air)

I had to make a lever to attach to the driveshaft flange in order to remove the 36mm mainshaft nut, I simply made a pattern out of cardboard marking the holes and drilled accordingly. The angle iron lever is 24" in length so I can hang onto the flange to keep torque from spinning it when I remove the 36mm nut.

BTW- if you don't have a 36mm socket, use a 1 7/16 socket (NOT AN IMPACT SOCKET). Typical impact sockets are 2" in diameter and the hole the nut fits in is slightly smaller than that (1.9"+). So you will have to use a thinwall socket. Not an issue, the nut isn't torqued on the flange with Gorilla brute force. I used a 3/4 drive ratchet to loosen the nut. I suppose you could use impact gun too.

Once the flange was off, I removed the main shift detent plug, passenger side (1 5/8 socket).
Then I removed the (19) 10mm bolts from the rear case. Take the reverse shift switch off, easily broken. ask me how I know that. :)

Now here's where it gets interesting. DO NOT USE SCREWDRIVERS or what have you to insert in between the cases to pry them apart. You WILL damage the mating surfaces and now you will be in a world of ****.

Instead, use a wood block and a mallet to drive the aluminum case off the intermediate housing by hitting the tabs (ears) on the sides of the rear case. You can't miss those tabs.

Be vigorous. It will take some serious mallet hits on the wood stick because you are breaking the gasket seal on the mating surfaces. You're not going to hurt anything.

Once the rear case is off, have a look at the debris magnet inside. (in a slot to the rear, Lower center). Much can be diagnosed from looking at it. Look for springs, ball bearings, chips, filings, etc.

Set the rear case to the side. We will work on it later.

Intermediate housing. Okay, we are at a point where you're going to want to take photographs from several angles. Trust me, do this. The manuals don't begin to describe this transmission enough.

I will pick up later, got to get ready for work.
 
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TjMiller

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Nice wright up. Ford definitely could have used some better parts for the clutch setup. I just wanted to add that the aluminum bracket under the dash and the cross shaft that runs though it should be inspected. Most common is that the bushings wear out and the steel shaft eggs out the aluminum then it is garbage. I have also seen the brackets crack. Ford used the same setup in the mustangs too.
 

Dave_Nevada

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Funny you mention that, that's exactly what I'm working on at the moment. Ford wants to sell you the entire assembly instead of just the shaft bushings. I'm looking into how I can install some oilite bearings in the assembly. Fortunately, mine's not worn out, but if I didn't attend to the bearings, I would certainly have to replace it. I'm looking into replacing the shaft with a grade 8 bolt to convert it from 8mm in diameter to 5/16 or maybe 3/8. That way I can find oilite bearings much easier. This whole clutch setup is one huge mess of programmed failures to keep you coming back to visit the service department.

BTW- I improved the master cylinder rod by cutting off the loop on the end, ground it down smooth and ran a 3/8 24tpi die about 1.5" on it. The heim joint is a 3/8 x 24tpi with one side ground a little bit for clearance on the pedal. I ground the weld down, then knocked the stud out, reamed the hole slightly to fit a 3/8 x 1.5" bolt in it. I mig welded a 3/8 x 16 tpi nut to the pedal arrm (straddling the hole). Now the master cylinder shaft heim joint installs with 1 grade 8 bolt, no mess, no fuss. No more broken plastic B.S. either.

BTW, I laughed at the instructions when i installed the master cylinder shaft- it said CAUTION: YOU CAN ONLY INSTALL THE SHAFT ONCE. IT LOCKS IN- MAKE SURE YOU HAVE EVERYTHING SET BEFORE YOU INSTALL IT. OOOH MYYYY!!!! WHAT WILL I DOOOOO? LOL

I call B.S. !!!!

I removed the entire hydraulic system while working on the pedal tree. There are two fingers inside the master cylinder hole that retain the shaft. Simply insert a thin bladed regular screwdriver in there and push them toward the outside of the cylinder. Monkey around with it, you'll pop the shaft right out. I will see about a tool to remove it, I happen to use a type of tubular removal tool in electronics - removes barrel shaped connections in plugs. That's how I knew how they designed this. Once you get the shaft out, you can do all sorts of schitt to it. I happen to have a lathe, but you don't need one to dress the shaft. Just stick it in a bench vice and get after it. Use a 3/8 x 24tpi die to thread it. Make sure you put a jam nut on it too. That eliminates the need for 'hogging out' the heim joint end and installing a tiny set screw. You KNOW what happens when those are loosened, right? They fall out, NEVER to be seen again.

I will continue my write up, I'm figuring out all kinds of workarounds to improve this cheaply designed crap. Ford isn't the only one, GM and Mopar are just as bad.
 
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Dave_Nevada

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TIME SAVER HINT:

There's one thing I did that many don't do on engine or transmission tear-downs. I bought myself several cheap plastic containers for small parts at Harbor Crap. What a time saver!! I didn't stress ONCE wondering where all the bolts and parts went back into this beast. Each time I pulled bolts or parts, I categorized them by writing where they went with a Sharpie on the little well bottom where I dropped them in.

Think that's anal? Maybe, but it was time well spent. You can be an arse and wing it, and waste tons of time wondering if you left something out, or you can save yourself that grief by taking your time and do it like I did.

I have worked on machinery my entire adult life, that is a hard won habit I learned. So put that main 36mm shaft nut (2wd), 1 5/8" Main detent, the reverse switch and the (19 qty) 10mm bolts from the rear case in the plastic box now. You will see later how much this helps.

Okay, let's get to it.

First tool you will want to make:

Make yourself a pair of hooks to pull the gear set out of the main housing. Shape them like a couple of big ol' fishing hooks. Use whatever you want as long as it will hold 200 lbs. I tried carabiners, no go. Just won't fit in the right places. Don't waste your money or time.

Then fasten the hooks on the ends of the pulling chain you bought at Home Depot (See my list). Rods about 12" each will do. Use your hammer, an impact socket to form the rod's little end in a vice.

Look at the Intermediate housing, see the cross hatch castings? You're going to attach the hooks around those cast aluminum bars at 9 and 3 o'clock when you use your engine puller to lift up on the gear set.

But first- let's remove the three Allen head case bolts from the Intermediate housing. Models after the early 99 only had two. These Allen bolts are located at 3, 9 and 8 o' clock on an early 99, 3 and 9 o' clock on the rest. The extra Allen bolt at 8 o' clock is something NOT detailed in the GM manual. That's because they didn't have the ZF6 in 99.

Put the Allen bolts in your plastic container and MARK on the container where they go. Do this for each small part and bolt you remove.

Okay, we are at the point we can pull the gear set. Hopefully by now you've taken an ample amount of pictures of the way the transmission gear set is assembled. if you haven't please do that now. I swear to you, you'll be happy later on that you did.

Install your pulling hooks around the cast arms of the intermediate housing. Have Soldier 'B' begin jacking the engine hoist up, take the slack out of the chain. Stop when the slack is gone. Look at everything, look good?

Jack the engine hoist some more, lifting the entire trans about an inch off the deck. with your RUBBER mallet, smack the main case around the mating surface of the two cases. (Intermediate and Main).

They should separate. If not, you're not tapping hard enough.

Now you can lift the entire main gear set out of the main housing. Let it set for a few minutes, let the fluid drain off it. Get your CLEAN rags out, you know what to do.

You know that table I said to build with a 2.5" hole? BTW- I used a solid core door for its heft.

Put the table under the input shaft of your gear set and lower the gear set VERTICALLY onto the work table/bench. By now you can see the gear set is heavy. I hope your table is stout enough to handle the 200 lb weight.

Time to take more photos. For those of you that have never done this repair before, time to study how this thing looks BEFORE you tear it apart. Pictures are a God send.

BTW- if you will turn your attention over to the the main case, you will see the oil pump in the 6 o'clock position of the main housing. It is mounted in there with a snap ring. The oil pump is unique to Ford, GM does not use it. DUMB DUMB DUMB. Did i say that was dumb??

When you remove the oil pump, it (if you have to change the main case), you will remove the countershaft bearing race, the bearing pre-load shim (DO NOT TOSS THE SHIM- KEEP IT), then the snap ring. You will look at it and wonder, how the frick will that thing come out?

Easy Grasshopper, pull it out with a pair of vice grips fastened to its drive shaft. Work it back and forth, it will lift straight up and out. You won't hurt it, it's hardened steel. BTW- the oil pump does NOT develop pressure. It's strictly for oil flow, like a water pump. Can the idea of trying to install a pressure gauge down-line, it doesn't work that way. (I read some where some dude was trying to do that without knowing how it actually works).

Next, turn your attention to the plastic trough coming off the input shaft bearing area. Depending on the miles, spend the money, get a new one. It's plastic! That feeds splash oil to the main bearing of the input shaft and is crucial to be in good shape.

Notice the little black orifice next to the oil pump? That's a one way valve for the oil pump, That keeps capillary hydraulic back feed from occurring in your hydraulic cooling system. Think anti-siphon valve in your lawn sprinkler systems. Leave it alone.

Okay, that about does it for now.

Coming up: Tools I needed to do this job. You don't need as many as Ford tries to sell you (image that), and I will tell you ways to save yourself some major bucks on what you will need. Stuff like- a steel schedule 40 cylinder 6" x 18" for some press work. Neither Ford or GM manuals mention anything of this. I'll tel you why when we get there.

Back to that blasted pedal tree. (sigh).
 
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Dave_Nevada

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BTW- Let me clarify: GM does not use the oil pump to their detriment. That pump really does save bearings and synchros from fluid breakdown due to heavy load towing. It is also beneficial if you're running a PTO to drive a hydraulic pump such as on a rollback or you want to tow an Okie Shangri-La (aka fifth wheel) up mountain roads in the summer.

Yet another way another manufacturer cut corners to save themselves a few bucks. 'Atta boy' to Ford on this one. A good boot in the sacks to GM.

Ridiculous. :morons:
 
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Dave_Nevada

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ZF6 Manuals

Manual trans PDF documents
View attachment Manual_Trans-Clutch_R&R.pdf

View attachment WS Manual 1999 F-Super Duty S3, G8, 9, 10_Manual Transmission - Part-4.pdf

zf650_p1.jpg

zf650_p2.jpg
 

Dave_Nevada

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Bearing Parts Lists, Sources, costs, etc.

Parts list with sources coming.

Each bearing and component was logged as to what it was, where it went, and sources.

One problem I had was that Allstate Gear lists a 1319 SMK FULL COMPLETE shim kit as for $29.

At the time, this was not true. When it arrived, It was missing the counterhshaft shims that go under the countershaft race to properly set pre-load bearing clearance. I called them about this and all I got was "we don't have that". :jawdrop:
Yeah, no kidding? That's why I'm calling !!! Maybe they fixed that situation by now, but I doubt it. :biggun:
Other than that, Allstate was super in supplying parts. Don't get me wrong, I'm not so angry that I tell them to shove off. But that really freaked me out that there wasn't a countershaft shim kit as advertised on their website. I was in the Marines in the last century (hahahaha) and the first thing they teach you is to "adapt, improvise and overcome."

Well, what do to? Aha!

I took my old shim which happened to be .051" and reduced it to .041" on my precision surface grinder to meet the pre-load spec that I measured toward the end of my rebuild. (Yeah, I have had time to accumulate some stuff). Eat your heart out.

I tried to source a single shim- good luck. I found one in Germany. Pfft!! They only way I could find one in the U.S. was to spend another 129 bones on a full set from another supplier. If you have to change your main case, you must have this countershaft shim set.

Keep that in mind.
 
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Dave_Nevada

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Wow. Looking at how this thread is expanding, I should have named it "DO IT YOURSELF BRAIN SURGERY WITH A HAMMER, CHISEL AND A HACKSAW.

:pointlaugh: I kill me. :thumbsup:
 
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Dave_Nevada

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Parts List attached in doc format

Here's the parts list of most bearings and small parts I could source with Internet links for most. This will help you in your repairs if you mess something up or find a kit that is short something. Again, it does not have everything, but it's more than you have now!

Actual part numbers of every bearing never listed in the kits sold on-line.
:thumbsup:
 

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Dave_Nevada

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Out of curiosity, I wanted to know how much ‘rod travel distance’ a slave cylinder has upon the installation of a new clutch.

My truck has a new clutch plate, new pressure plate, new clutch hydraulic system along with a new heim joint fix in the pedal tree.

Curious about how much the clutch can move while in operation, I mounted the slave cylinder to the bellhousing. (I have an old ZF6 Main bellhousing to test measurements left over from my rebuild).

I first measured the distance from the mating surface of the bellhousing (outside, where the slave cylinder twists into the bellhousing) to the tip of the black plastic rod end cover (inside).

Distance: 4.442”

Then using my installed transmission, I measured the distance of the dimple (on the throwout arm) to the same slave cylinder mating surface as above by inserting a loose slave cylinder rod and marking the distance.

Measurement of my installed clutch- throwout arm pivot dimple, to the bellhousing mating surface:

3.470”

Difference:

1.972”

That is the available distance for the slave cylinder rod to move to release the clutch plate- if 100% at full operational capacity.

In my case, if the clutch master cylinder pushes the rod beyond 1.972”, I could see why those throwout arms bend. You’re not going to resist a hydraulic force, not without something bending or breaking.

That said, having an adjustable master cylinder rod set perhaps .002 shorter than the total slave rod travel distance would act as protection against bending the throwout arm, at least from that source.

Something else I noticed: While I had the pedal tree out, I installed the clutch hydraulic system to test the entire mechanism. When I pumped the slave cylinder ten times against the table top to bleed the air, I then tried pushing the master cylinder once and the slave rod extended normally. A funny thing happened after that, when I tried to push the clutch pedal again, the system was solid as a brick. It wouldn’t move! I could not push the pedal down (master cylinder rod) - even a little bit. :wtf:

So I pushed the slave cylinder back in again, and the pedal (master cylinder) freed up for operation. It seems the two work in tandem- sort of like a tug ‘o war. So I could understand if you lost your throwout arm or broke the slave cylinder pushrod why the clutch pedal would seem like it’s locked up. You get one push, then on the next push, a lockup. From this test it appears you MUST have a push back from the clutch throwout arm for the master cylinder to operate on the next downward pedal push.

This information may help some of you understand and troubleshoot the clutch system and what happens when you lose your ability to clutch. So when changing your hydraulic clutch system, DO NOT TEST THE SYSTEM WITH THE SLAVE CYLINDER OUT OF THE BELLHOUSING.

Mount the entire system normally, then test it.
 
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Dave_Nevada

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Pilot Bearing fix 7.3 to solid bronze Oilite

This works quite well. Gets rid of the dreaded needle bearing '"Problem Generator".

For you folks who have not used these before, these have been in use for well over 100 years.

Powdered metal for bearings is a time tested concept and it worked for many applications until some whizzo decided it would be a good idea to put a hard needle bearing with lube on an input shaft.

Problem is, the lube goes away. Now you have a metal lathe at work and it's a matter of time before you're spending thousands on repairs.

Before and after pics.
 

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Dave_Nevada

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Clutch Pedal repair and modification

Well, I definitely had some wear going on with the clutch pedal. So I took the entire assembly out and ground that little POS off the pedal, knocked the snot out of it and installed a nice threaded heim joint (3/8 x 24TPI) with a jam nut on the Master Cylinder push rod. I welded a nut on the backside of the heim joint hole for easy on/off for future maintenance. No more plastic anywhere.

Another programmed failure eliminated.
 

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Dave_Nevada

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Clutch condition when I pulled the trans for rebuild pics

This is one of the stock OEM LuK clutches some dude threw in here before I owned it. Combined with my Clutch pedal, it explains a lot.

Along with a schitt pilot bearing, loss of some synchro components, I'd say I was lucky to even get her into gear when the engine wasn't running! :pointlaugh:

At least the clutch release arm wasn't mangled. It cleaned up nice. I do think it was replaced since this is an early 99. It was in too good of shape not to have been.
 

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Dave_Nevada

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Leaking Stock Up-Pipes- Replaced with stainless bellows

Got the pipes from Riff-Raff. Fit and finish are top notch. Easy to install. I made one modification in fasteners- I used Allen bolts on the turbo connection to get some clearance for the bolt heads (personal preference). The others would have worked, but I like these for their ease of maintenance. :thumbsup:
 
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In regard to the 'no more plastic anywhere' on the pedal tree, oops. I still have to mod the shaft bearings to oilites or ball bearings. Either way, it's much better now. I might even fab a pedal tree out of 1/4" plate steel with pillow block bearings. I will die before that sucker fails.
 

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