96 f350 front axle seals leaking

zilla68

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drivers side started leaking.
local shop wants 540.00 to replace the 2 seals so I will be doing them myself.
I just got done (last year) replacing ball joints and bearings/seals etc in the hubs, so anything I need to be prepared for on this?
is a case separator necessary? or can I get by without it?

looked around on you tube with no d60 videos but it seems straight forward

any tips?
 

pdumont01

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What is it leaking front diff fluid? If it is leaking diff fluid the axles must come out then remove front diff cover and carrier assy, use a big prybar to pop old seals out from the inside, then get the tool to install them it makes it so much easier. Borrow from dealer if you know someone. You won't be able to get them in without it there is no room to swing a hammer and hit it straight.

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79jasper

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You can do it without the tool.
Get some long all thread to make like a slide hammer with some big washers.
Throw the carrier in a bucket of ice or a freezer for awhile and it'll go in easier.

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zilla68

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yes diff fluid

it looks like I can make the tool, with the seal driver I have and some all thread.
just didn't know if I need the case spreader
 

79jasper

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Yes it would probably be easier. But I went without. I wrapped it in plastic and dropped it in a bucket of ice overnight.
To get it out, just toss a Terry towel where it'll go between the ring and pinion, then turn the front driveshaft. It'll pop it out.

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pdumont01

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I've never had to use the case spreader. Just a big prybar. And I know it can be done without the tool but I found it easier to borrow the tool from dealer.

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zilla68

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ok thanks, I need to plan it out with least amount of down time, i'll get the ujoints done also in the shafts
 

79jasper

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I'll tell you, don't skimp on quality on the u joints.
Also theirs a slightly upgraded seal. Let me see if I can find it.

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zilla68

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billy I was thinking I could use a long piece of all thread with a flat plate on the outside and the flat part of a seal driver on the inside with nuts on each end, then just tighten it down on the outside, sucking it into place on the inside

I saw the miller tool the dodge guys use but couldn't find the part number on it to see what it costs.
 

zilla68

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I'll tell you, don't skimp on quality on the u joints.
Also theirs a slightly upgraded seal. Let me see if I can find it.

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I will take them and have them done at a local drivetrain shop, surely they will have equal quality or better
 

zilla68

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I'll tell you, don't skimp on quality on the u joints.
Also theirs a slightly upgraded seal. Let me see if I can find it.

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sunrise is telling me there is a seal for 99 and down and 2000 and up, which one do I need? they are 2 different numbers are they different sizes?
 

79jasper

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I can't see what truck you have. If it's a obs, get 99 down, if a shop is doing it.
You have to slightly modify the upgraded seal to work in the older housing.

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zilla68

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I can't see what truck you have. If it's a obs, get 99 down, if a shop is doing it.
You have to slightly modify the upgraded seal to work in the older housing.

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yes its an obs, thanks, is ford or dana a better seal or does it really matter.
 

79jasper

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Couldn't tell you there. I would have to have both hand in hand to give my opinion. But they're probably the same.

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pdumont01

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I would use the seal from the dealer with the Vin at least u will get the right one, I've never had new ford seals leak. I've done a bunch.

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79jasper

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^ that's the one. Some reason I couldn't find it. But I figured since you were having a shop do it, you wouldn't be able to go that route.

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zilla68

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i'm doing it myself, I refuse to pay 500 plus bucks to do that job.
just like the ball joints, they said 1100.00 I bought a snap on ball joint press and
the best billet ball joints I could find and still saved 400.00 and replaced all the bearings and seals also.
I just have a hard time paying up lol. I'm cheap
 

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