Auxillary Fuel Tank

tangoparson

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I came across a screaming deal on a 90 gal fuel tank for my 2011. Bigger than I need but will make a bit of difference in range when towing my fifth wheel.

The outlet of the tank has a steel or aluminum ball valve with a barbed nipple to hook the fuel line on. It sticks out too far because of the curved floor of the bed. I am going to get a brass street ell to turn it 90 degrees.

Here is question 1. Is there any problem mixing brass and diesel fuel? I might have read something on the internet that they didn’t get along. On the internet = must be true. Lol

Question 2. With a gravity feed into the stock tank the fuel gauge is not going to move until the aux tank is empty. Is that going to freak out the computer? It will think I have driven hundreds of miles and not used any fuel. Is it that smart?

Thanks. I know some of you guys have real world experience. I trust y’all.


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psduser1

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Brass and diesel fuel get along just fine.

If you gravity feed your aux tank to the factory tank, you will end up dumping fuel thru the factory vent i.e., liquid seeks its own level. A better option would be to wire in a solenoid valve between the oem tank and your auxialary tank to control fuel flow. Im assuming the aux tank is mounted in the bed.

Fill both tanks, when the main tank gets low, flip a switch, wa-la, the aux tank drains to the main, and your gauge goes back to full. Flip the switch off, continue to drive, repeat. At least till the aux tank is empty, lol. I can guarantee, by the time you burn 120ish gallons of fuel, you'll need to piss, lol.
 

powerbeast

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No get an installation kit it cost about $75 and it allows you to splice into the filler neck. The kit has a check valve so when the filler neck gets full it closes off. I have used it this way for years and never had a leak. The check valve is lower than the end of the vent on the factory tank so no seeping out. My 100 gallon tank is always feeding the factory and yes your gauge wont move but the truck wont care.
 

CallMeColt

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No get an installation kit it cost about $75 and it allows you to splice into the filler neck. The kit has a check valve so when the filler neck gets full it closes off. I have used it this way for years and never had a leak. The check valve is lower than the end of the vent on the factory tank so no seeping out. My 100 gallon tank is always feeding the factory and yes your gauge wont move but the truck wont care.

It's didn't work that way for me. Did you use the RDS gravity feed kit?

I went the brass solenoid valve route after leaking many times by mistake.
 

WyHauler

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I used the RDS kit to hook up my aux tank with a little manual valve and an inline filter on my '11. I usually just leave the valve open all the time and let it gravity fill I haven't had any leaks or issues with it so far. On my '10 I have an electric valve for my aux. tank from Napa. It failed on me this last winter so I had to replace it. Luckily I planned for a failure and had installed a manual valve upline from it so I could isolate my tank while replacing it. Either way you go I haven't had any issues with either one really. My vote is for the manual valve since I've had my electric one fail.
 

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