Black Magnum 2.0 assembly

Magnum PD

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Looks like I'll be assembling my motor myself. I'm gonna need any and all advice, tips and procedures about putting together my motor.

First I'll be putting crank in. I can only do outside studs being that I got a girdle. The inner 2 will be in after Pistons are in.

image_zpsmw8ud59k.jpg
 

Magnum PD

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I measure the crankshaft bearing diameters and they are at the limit. My Haynes book says 3.1228 to 3.1236.

The largest I got is 3.1229. Smallest at 3.1224.

Not sure if I need .0010 oversized
 

psduser1

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It's in tolerance.
If you don't like it, now is the time to fix it.
Did it carry good oil pressure when warm?
 

97stoker350

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if you're talking about putting the main studs in out of order, plan on cracking a main cap... the proper way to install a girdle is install the crank as if you didn't have a girdle, then take the center stud nuts off, lay the girdle on, then go through torque sequence for center studs on girdle. do not torque the outside studs down alone...
 

Magnum PD

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Thanks for the info man. With the center studs longer, I wonder if I'll have enough threads to torque them.
 

Strokersace

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No. Local machine shop.

Who did the machine work? Were the main saddles bored/honed with the girdle fastened in place?

Billy T.
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I'm pretty sure that the girdle needs to be in place when you bore/hone. For it to be done right. I'm quite positive I've read that on the forums multiple times.

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Magnum PD

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Trying to find someone nearby to do it would be my hang up. This is done WITHOUT bearings in?
 
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Correct. I had a girdle in my 460 and the machinist said that the extra clamping force can slightly egg shape the mains. He torqued the girdle to spec without bearings, let the block settle for a week then line bored it true.
 

gnxtc2

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Anytime you hone the main saddles, you want everything (girdle, heads, timing cover) bolted to the block as each part stresses the block differently.

I've put together engines with girdles and you couldn't turn the crank until the girdle was torqued to spec. Alot of engine builders don't have the equipment to be able to hone the mains with the heads and girdle installed. Plus, girdles are a PITA to do correctly.

I would install the main caps/girdle w/o the bearings and check the mains. Use a dial bore gauge. Confirm they didn't distort. Install the bearing and check the opening with the dial bore gauge. Compare the readings to the crank journals. I don't use Plastigauge.

I don't know if the crank was cut. You might have to get a bunch of bearings to mix and match..... .001, .010 to get proper clearance.

Billy T.
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Magnum PD

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Crank wasn't cut down. Stock bearings but according to my measurements, on the high side of tolerances.
 

bluedge8

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I know this doesn't completely apply, but when I have had cranks done, I had the shop that did that crank provide the correct bearings and I didn't even check them, because, I'm not a machinist, but they were also stock rebuilds. Is there a consideration of not using the girdle if it wasn't line bored with it?
 

Magnum PD

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Got the main bearing in the block and on the pillars. I got the ARP studs in block also. I put ARP assembly lube on the studs going into the block. May not need it but did it anyway.
Need to put my piston cooling jets in. Won't have much room once connecting rods are installed.
 

Magnum PD

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I would like to replace my rocker arms. Just think they have a lot of slap and wear. Anybody know of a good place to get a new set?
 
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