07 Longevity/recommended maintenance

dines.erik

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I have an 07 350 and I've seen some posts about upgrades that can be made to improve longevity. I was looking at the sinister fix kit (link below) and I was told it was over priced so I have three questions.

1). Do any of the pros recommend these upgrades?

2.). If so, can I find a comparable product at a more reasonable price?

3). What other "fixes" do the pro recommend?

Thank you for your time!!!

http://m.thoroughbreddiesel.com/sto...oolant-Filter-Kit-03-07-Ford-Powerstroke.aspx


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Decker

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1. A good solution kit is always a good idea if not done already

2.Don't go through TBD! Horrible personal experience. But Sinister makes alright products but over priced. Paying for the name in my opinion. Check out vendors here if your looking for solution pieces.

3. Only buy ford OEM oil coolers. I got one from TBD one time crap out less then a year. Filter kits are all basically the same. I got mine from Rudy for like 100$. Switch to cat elc coolant. Look into monitor and/or guages to watch everything. Things want to watch are trans fuel pressure water and oil. A good monitor will give you almost everything you need. Plus help diagnosis things later on. Blue spring help wirh fuel pressure. Get rid of the basic emission crap. Leave in valve tho unless you have a way turn cel off. And if you can coin it studs.
 
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powerlifter405

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Maintenance, Maintenance, Maintenance!!

My 2 cents:

-Use ford/Donaldson air filters for the best filtration. When I had my 6.4 I spoke w/ Aaron over at Rudy's and AFE and both confirmed that the factory Donaldson flows more than enough to adequately feed a 6.4 on factory twins at their max flow. I told the AFE tech my basic goal of IDP tuner on factory twins and he talked me out of the AFE and told me stick w/ the Donaldson.

-Use Ford or fram(never thought I'd say that:doh:) for the oil filter, there is a patent on it and Fram does have the rights. Look for the patent. Look up my oil filter issue I had using a bosch filter (bosch, Mann and Puralator same company). I've read the same about the fuel filters as well.

A few companies make the coolant filter setup. There are vendors here and amazingzon has some as well from the same original manufactures. I got mine from a vendor here but made the order on the amazing website. The ballc@ck leaked and one of the hoses was starting to crack. I got new valves from a local hydro company and new coolant hose and I'm back in biz. Each time I've changed the filter I've cut it open to be very unimpressed/surprised. I think the system is getting filtered but I'm not finding any debris. The original radiator leaked at 180k and the system was flushed at that time so maybe that is why I didn't have any sediment in my system, who knows.:shrug:

You can order your coolant flush through Ryderfleet solutions. In hindsight I would have increased the flush %. IMHO Do several water only flush w/ the thermostat out then use the flush stuff. Restore takes care of oil/grease removal and it also removes any silicia gelling. The Restore Plus removes rust and scale. I ave 8* difference before and after so YMMV.

Like mentioned above the HD cat coolant will work as will Evans waterless coolant. It's a class 8 coolant but it's very expensive. IMHO I like the Zerex/CAT type HD coolant, available at Orielys and other places. I also use the Mishimoto hi-temp stat. I towed summer and winter in the 10k range and drove like a madman w/ no overheat issues on TTY studs.

I have over 315k or so on mine :D. It was deeleeted at 298ish and was 100% stock until then, on the original oil cooler and egr cooler, no tuner no deelete.

One thing I think helped it's longevity is it was 1 owner, previous owner was RELIGIOUS on his oil/fuel and air filter changes only using Ford filters AND the truck was usually under load for long periods of time ( continual hot exhaust gases burn off more junk IMHO). He always had a trailer attached to it and his job sites were always a 30+ min drive in any direction, he drove from San Antonio to Montana several times a year from 05 until I got it.

Since I have tenatively planned to keep the truck as I got is super cheap and it runs great I did studs last week cab on. It's a major PIA, hind sight I'd find a way to lift the cab or pull the motor. I did it one bolt at a time torqued to 250 ftlbs. I know it's over but Jeremy does one stud at a time(no HG issue trucks) about 20% over and as does a friend of mine and both have great luck for DD towing/work trucks and had none return w/ the higher #.

good luck and enjoy it:thumbsup:

Oh, also maybe move to the 6.0 tech vs aftermarket for a better response.
 
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OldschoolPSD

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My last service truck went 380k (07 6.0) with nothing other than regular maintenance. I think we welded the EGR shut around 320k and it got an injector solenoid replaced somewhere along the line as well. Ended up trashing the torque converter because the crank started walking back. Got my money's worth out of it lol

I'm a firm believer that you have to put your foot in them every now and then to keep them cleaned out. Truck weighed around 11k with all the tools and welding machine and all in it and the guy that I had driving it was full throttle or nothing everywhere he went. Had a lot less problems out of that truck than my personal one that a bought from a guy who kept it in the garage and commuted to work. That damn truck didn't even have a trailer hitch and it had all the usual 6.0 problems.
 
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powerlifter405

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My last service truck went 380k (07 6.0) with nothing other than regular maintenance.

I'm a firm believer that you have to put your foot in them every now and then to keep them cleaned out. Truck weighed around 11k with all the tools and welding machine and all in it and the guy that I had driving it was full throttle or nothing everywhere he went. Had a lot less problems out of that truck than my personal one that a bought from a guy who kept it in the garage and commuted to work. That damn truck didn't even have a trailer hitch and it had all the usual 6.0 problems.

I had talked to an older ford diesel tech years back and he said that he saw more soccer mom, grocery getters in for more serious work than work trucks that were worked hard BUT used good maintenance. IMHO good engine heat is an under looked key to longevity.
 

Jomax

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I had talked to an older ford diesel tech years back and he said that he saw more soccer mom, grocery getters in for more serious work than work trucks that were worked hard BUT used good maintenance. IMHO good engine heat is an under looked key to longevity.


I agree 100%. I drive my truck HARD, zero issues. I believe if you maintains them to a T. These trucks actually like being driven hard vs grandpa style.


My truck gets plenty Engine heat. LOL


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dsberman94

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6.0 needs to be run hard to keep the veins clean in the turbo. My father went through 3 turbos before he sold his. Daily driving before the vein sweep factory tuning went in clogged them up.
 

DEEZUZ

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Maintenance, Maintenance, Maintenance!!

My 2 cents:

-Use ford/Donaldson air filters for the best filtration. When I had my 6.4 I spoke w/ Aaron over at Rudy's and AFE and both confirmed that the factory Donaldson flows more than enough to adequately feed a 6.4 on factory twins at their max flow. I told the AFE tech my basic goal of IDP tuner on factory twins and he talked me out of the AFE and told me stick w/ the Donaldson.

-Use Ford or fram(never thought I'd say that:doh:) for the oil filter, there is a patent on it and Fram does have the rights. Look for the patent. Look up my oil filter issue I had using a bosch filter (bosch, Mann and Puralator same company). I've read the same about the fuel filters as well.


I thought FRAM just reboxed the Motorcraft(Racor) units?

The filter has about a dozen patents on it and FRAM spent a ton of money trying to weasel through them but in the end just reboxed em.
 

OldschoolPSD

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I thought fram was the one that came with its own cap and would give you no start issues if you tried to use any other filter with their cap.
 
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