2000 Super Duty LWB to SWB.

I should be the last person to do a DIY because of the way I do most chops.
That said I've been doing them since I was a teenager stretching 2 ton frames and building trailers. I spent several years building off road race chassis, and in the last 10 years street trucks. Both stretches and chops.

So here's where I started this one, which is my 1st SD chop.



A grossly over-long 2000 SD 2WD.

Pulling the bed is obligatory, no reason to cover that or reinstall.

Start by disconnecting the E-brake and cutting the flange off. I used a 10" Milwaukee blade.



Then mark out your diagram. I'm using a 5" horizontal in a lazy Z notch cut. The cut is 16 and an 1/8" so we need 21 and 1/8" of straight space. I place the bottom cut toward the rear to lesson the chance of a stress fracture. I only use a sawzall to cut frames. IMO the less you overheat the frame the more strength is retained.



Measure 10 times then once more before you cut. LOL



The next step is the most critical in my opinion. This where the chop will succeed or fail. Grind the area's to be welded to a knife edge. Take time to do this right and not grind to deep.

Welding is next. I won't say what I use or recommend as most disagree with what I use and have for the last 15 years. This thread is about performing the chop not my opinions on welding.

It will take you several attempts to match the surfaces perfectly. Don't give up and start welding until it's right. This one took me 4 attempts.



Weld.



Next up is the drive shaft. You're going to need a cutting wheel for this and a very steady hand. What you want to do is cut the original weld to but not into the cap. It takes experience to get a feel for when your deep enough. Then tap on the end to release the cap.



Then cut 16 and 1/8" off and reweld. You can use a long flat piece of straight cardboard to make a square circle.



The fuel tank is pretty straight forward. You'll need the SWB tank but you'll need to relocate the front strap. I bowed the fuel lines up and around to take up the slack. Some with the wiring and brake line.



Dont forget to reweld the E-brake flange. You'll need to shorten the cable from the cab.

good looking Joe!

Just finished tonight and this is the only pic I have with it done. Make sure to drain the tank before removing or you have to do a diesel IV like this. LOL

Done it a couple times on chebbies, good job, looks great


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Looking good!

I want to hear your opinion.

What did you weld with? Stick, mig or tig?

What type of filler did you use? I want to build a short wheel base reg cab. I feel comfortable in my welding abilities and have people I trust to inspect it. Just want to pick someones brain who has done this.
Thanks

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Last one we did was with an arc with structural steel rod. Wasn't a superduty but turned out nice. Jumped it a couple times and never had an issue with it. Nice thread btw. Build looks good

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LOL Joe, go on and tell em your welding and frame chopping techniques...I could use a good read opcorn:

110v flux

bad12jr said:

I want to hear your opinion.

What did you weld with? Stick, mig or tig?

What type of filler did you use? I want to build a short wheel base reg cab. I feel comfortable in my welding abilities and have people I trust to inspect it. Just want to pick someones brain who has done this.
Thanks

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2

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HaysKSFirefighter said:

LOL Joe, go on and tell em your welding and frame chopping techniques...I could use a good read opcorn:

Click to expand...

I'll pass. This was for info only. I've busted enough myths. If people want to continue to believe them there's nothing I can do to change their minds. Proof and track record mean nothing to the educated and un experienced.

Nice write up Joe, but stick to chopping regular cab trucks to make something special instead of neutering the remaining long bed trucks oke:

Noooooooo........! Must rid the world of LWB trucks!
It's really better this way ;-)

Joe, I'm certainly no expert but why did you square off your lazy z cut? When I did the old cheby and was talking with other fab guys and welders they were explaining to me to go with more of a rounded z. Almost like an s to avoid straight line fractures in the welding. Not saying your way is wrong, just curious.

JoeDaddy said:

I'll pass. This was for info only. I've busted enough myths. If people want to continue to believe them there's nothing I can do to change their minds. Proof and track record mean nothing to the educated and un experienced.

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If I had a dollar for everybody that said my chop and weld wouldn't hold up..... I could replace the clutch that I smoked at chris's. Looks good man.

bigaF250 said:

Joe, I'm certainly no expert but why did you square off your lazy z cut? When I did the old cheby and was talking with other fab guys and welders they were explaining to me to go with more of a rounded z. Almost like an s to avoid straight line fractures in the welding. Not saying your way is wrong, just curious.

Click to expand...

You are exactly right.

Nice job Joe!