Fan clutch

gotchadollar

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Blew my transmission about a month ago, when it happened the air conditioning went to hot air at idle, got the trans out of the truck and rebuilt, put the trans in and it still blows hot air at idle, driving it cools down. Sucked the Freon out and put what the stick says to put back in. Did it with an A/C machine. The clutch kicks on for about 10 seconds, the air will cool down, then about a minute of hot air. Trucks coolant temp hit 235 degrees and gave me an engine overtemp warning. Tried to command the fan clutch with a snap on scanner and cannot get it to engage. Fan spins freely KOEO, is there something that the transmission blowing has anything to do with the fan clutch not engaging?
 

gotchadollar

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These were my forward clutches. Towing my 5th wheel down hill it down shifted from 5th to 4th and truck idled down to 600 rpm, push the pedal and it free reved then locked in 5th gear, shut it if started it put it in drive and it searched for gears then hit 5th and locked in.
 

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redneck1

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Haven't had a 6.7 fan clutch do out, but I know a 6.0 will throw a soft code. (Your snapon scanner will pick it up). They will still spin free if the electrical goes bad.


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gotchadollar

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All the symptoms I’m having are leaning toward the fan clutch, but it’s just weird the second the trans let go I got hot air. It’s not that my temps were hot when it happened either.
Haven't
had a 6.7 fan clutch do out, but I know a 6.0 will throw a soft code. (Your snapon scanner will pick it up). They will still spin free if the electrical goes bad.


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redneck1

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I'm assuming you checked all wiring to clutch? They say bad things happen in 3, so you're right on par.


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redneck1

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That's a tough call. It's a pain but I'd probe the wiring to the clutch, see if the clutch is getting what the computer is sending. If it is, clutch is bad, if not you're going to have to go deeper.


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gotchadollar

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Should be able to use a test light and as I command higher percentage the light should get brighter right?
That's a tough call. It's a pain but I'd probe the wiring to the clutch, see if the clutch is getting what the computer is sending. If it is, clutch is bad, if not you're going to have to go deeper.


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gotchadollar

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Reaistance between pin 1 and pin 6 component side is supposed to be 9-14 ohms, I’m getting 22ohms. Guess I’ll replace the fan clutch. Still mind boggling how I instantly got hot air the minute I lost the trans haha.
 

fnlyfree

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Did you end up changing the fan clutch? Need to do mine and was looking for some tips on best way to do it.
 

gotchadollar

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Yes, I have the HSM turbo kit so it made things a little easier but it’s no longer than a 30 minute job. The upper shroud is the only thing needed to come off. No coolant drain. Just unbolt and remove everything connected to that shroud.(Upper Half) and you will have access to the fan harness, I believe it’s one 13mm bolt for the harness and then you can loosen the fan from the water pump. You can lay everything out of the way, coolant lines, ac line etc...
Did you end up changing the fan clutch? Need to do mine and was looking for some tips on best way to do it.
 

powerbeast

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Lucky you caught it in time. My fan clutch went out and my compressor burned up and my entire ac system. Cost me $3600. Apparently there is a factory defect on some superduties. The problem i have is my truck idles a lot and when it idled for too long the fan clutch wouldn’t come on and it created too much pressure in the system.
 

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