MPD Budget Turbo kit install

williamallen13

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I have a 2011 f250 and the turbo recently started going out. Yesterday about 5 pm I took off the intake and upper and lower intake manifolds to check the play and sure enough it had some. So I decided to buy the MPD budget kit with the S363 turbo and a CCV Bypass kit. After talking with them last night I ordered it at about 5:45 pm with overnight shipping. When I ordered it I made sure it would be delivered today and they assured me it would except for the downpipe which should be here Saturday. So this morning I spent about 3-4 hours getting the turbo and Crankcase black box out. All in all not that bad. I definitely recommend spraying the up pipes with PB blaster a couple times and letting it sit for an hour while you remove the exhaust and do the CCV bypass. Actually pulling the turbo out the valley wasn't too bad just pull up and twist to the right then left and snaking it around the fuel lines. Right after I pulled the turbo out the valley at about 1:30 pm the UPS truck delivered the kit. I stopped working about 4 pm and got the CCV and the pedestal installed. I'm going to wait for the downpipe before I install everything else. These are some pictures. I have a video I'm working on also. Hopefully I can finish tomorrow and post back the results. I also got some custom tunes for my SCT tuner from Punch it Performance and they got them to me today so that was great since I ordered them about 1 pm today. 4 tunes in all plus a load first tune.
20160122_154637.jpg
 
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williamallen13

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Well I finished the kit this morning. It actually took me longer due to not having any instructions with the new kit. I did have a cell phone number that I called about 20 times. This is the steps I used to install the 6.7 Powerstroke MPD Budget kit.
1. leave up pipe attached to turbo flange and install up pipes to the headers with new gaskets and torque down.
2. install drivers side headers heat shield
3. install lower pedestal's 90* oil line fitting, leave at 45* up towards passenger side
4. install lower pedestal to engine with gasket
5. attach oil line straight fitting and line to the turbo
6. loosen housings to the turbo and rotate exhaust side to have oil supply at bottom and t4 flange at top exactly opposite each other
7. install upper piece of pedestal to the turbo with o ring
8. carefully place turbo on lower pedestal in valley, put upper air intake in but don't bolt in just to rotate front of turbo housing to touch the upper intake(has to touch) and tighten a couple housing bolts to hold it's position then pull out and tighten all housing bolts
9. place gasket on lower pedestal and install turbo and torque down
10. install t4 gasket and 4 bolts to turbo and up pipe piece
11. take off next piece of exhaust on truck to make room for downpipe
12. slide downpipes together leaving loose then slide up from bottom and attach to the back of the turbo and put exhaust back together rotate and tighten all bolts
13. attach boot to turbo inlet
14. install plug in oil line hose. (I used hose clamps instead of factory clamps)
15. install lower intake to boot on turbo and force in and bolt down to engine then tighten boot clamps
16. attach boot to intercooler pipe and boost tube
17. attach 45* boot to turbo and tweak on top of fuel lines and under upper intake. It does fit but you will have a slight crease in the boot. Then attach to intercooler pipe and clamp all boots
18. install coolant tube on passenger side of intake
19. install upper intake manifold and map sensor
20. install air filter assembly and sensor
21. put cap on vacuum line to old turbo wastegate
22. fill coolant
23. drain and fill oil changing oil filter
24. tune
25, pray there's no leaks and enjoy

I didn't get the t4 flange gasket with the turbo but they are sending one out so I'll install it when it comes. Other then that and no instructions everything went fairly good. I'm a novice so if I can do it then anyone can, well almost anyone. After driving it I did notice it doesn't make much boost until about 2250-2400 rpms. I only drove it about 30 min stopped for awhile and then drove another 30 min. There's no leaks and no codes. It does have a louder turbo sound in the cab but no more whooshing. It also has a more diesel sound when you punch it like it's bogging down in gas until it gets boost up then it pulls great. I really didn't want to take a chance on breaking anything first time out so I will update later this week with the different tunes. I drove in the level 3 from Punch it Performance and No Limit. I have a total of 4 tunes so I'll try another tomorrow. Probably level 2 since I will be towing my 2k cargo trailer. I'll also make a video and get some pictures.
 

jcain

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22-2400 rpm? Something's not right, that turbo should be lit well before 2000
 

Codydiesel

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I agree with jcain, a 363 should be full steam at 2000 rpm. Also with a non vgt you can't just punch it like a vgt if you doing on the small turbine of the 363 turbo it's easy to over fuel and stall out the turbo down low. Best is to ease in the throttle the turbo will respond better then when it should be coming into the boost around 1800 rpm you can go wot without the turbo bogging. Have fun and enjoy it.
 

lincolnlocker

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so you are missing a gasket on the mount and its lighting late? how much drive pressure are you losing where the gasket should be?

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass
 

williamallen13

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Okay so i drove it in all 4 tunes I got from PIP and No Limit and they seem to all bog the turbo down. It seems the turbo just isn't boosting right. I was in the level 4 tune and my torque app was reading the engine at 98% -100% demand and the fuel rail pressure at 25000 psi which is high for my truck and the truck was barely moving and boost was slowly coming up. It was making the diesel sound I drove in that tune for like 5 minutes before switching. It was making me nervous it just seemed like something wasn't right. Level 3 tune was okay but still that was not getting over 15 psi till like 2000 rpms. I know I don't have the t4 flange gasket in because they didn't send it but I was told it would be fine for now till I got so I don't think that could be it. Below is a short video of the level 3 tune. Look at it nd let me know what you think please.
No Limit sent another updated tune which I'll try out tomorrow and make a video to share to get feedback. The thing is I paid for 4 working tunes so I hope if this works then they'll fix the rest. Right now it drives and runs but not like I was hoping. I was just expecting a lot more from this kit and tunes. Right now kinda down about all the money and time spent. I can say for sure my old stock turbo was way faster then this is. Hopefully I can get the tunes straightened out. Does anyone else has a 363 in a 6.7 and have any imput?
https://youtu.be/775Z3SuFDn0
 
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Mikeyfitz

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Didnt sound like WOT, but it sounds like something isnt right.

You said youre missing a gasket for the t4 flange? That could easily cost boost leak issues
 

williamallen13

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Yes missing the gasket and it was full throttle. That's the only way to get the boost 30-35 psi. Could the missing gasket cause that bad of turbo lag? I'll take my camcorder tomorrow and get a better video showing my torque app so you can compare rpms, fuel rail pres, boost, engine load, and pedal position.
 

Mikeyfitz

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Well if you have a leak, it's gonna absolutely kill any power. Turbos are sensitive

That's bad for WOT though.
 

CoreyMS

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Looks like more than a boost leak imo

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 

WhiteMamba_Scorpion

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Looks like more than a boost leak to me. RPMs should be higher than that if thats WOT... I had a boost leak on mine and it still ran better than stock just didn't spool fast. I don't think a T4 gasket will cure that issue but you definitely need a gasket. You can pick them on line for like $5-10. Might check with some vendors on here first they'll help you out.
 
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