Brake overhaul

white59rt

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Hi guys,

Literally out of nowhere my truck went metal on metal early this week, I read for hours and brake stuff is the most inconclusive topic I have ever read about on these forums LOL!!

I decided on R1 concepts slotted only rotors, hawk lts pads, raybestos rebuilt calipers and brake lines from PMF. Noone had anything necessarily bad to say about the above parts so thats how I arrived at that decision.

I plan to use permatex purple brake grease on the pads, slide pins, etc....Also going to put all new fluid in with valvoline dot 3/4. I used pentosin super dot 4 in my dakota but I am unsure if it is safe for the hydroboost system so I figured better pass.

Any thing else you guys would recommend?

Thank you!!

Todd
 

BS Hauler

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I think that one of the reasons that people have repeated caliper failures is because they don't change all the fluid out of the system before they change them. They change a caliper because its sticking and then just push the old crappy brake fluid in the reservoir right into the new caliper and within a month its back to sticking and dragging the brake again. The other thing that I do is make sure that there is enough lube in the slider pins even on new calipers. I have also seen where there is sometimes not enough clearance in the brake shoes guide pins on the ends of them where they sit in the calipers too move freely. If you have to take a hammer to knock out the brake shoe out of the caliper its too tight. File them a little. My original shoes went 80,000 miles pulling a horse trailer on my 02 dually. Then went thru 2 sets of after markets in the next 25,000 miles till I figured out what was going on. When the after market companies punch out the shoes they get a little sloppy with sizing them.
 

Denver

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Personally I run motorcraft parts when it comes to brakes. Brakes have a lot of components that have to work with each other to work properly. Pads and rotors have to be a match for each other since they create a lot of heat. Throw cheap pads on oem rotors and they can't distribute the heat properly and you start getting warped rotors, sticky calipers, loss of braking power.
 

white59rt

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I think that one of the reasons that people have repeated caliper failures is because they don't change all the fluid out of the system before they change them. They change a caliper because its sticking and then just push the old crappy brake fluid in the reservoir right into the new caliper and within a month its back to sticking and dragging the brake again. The other thing that I do is make sure that there is enough lube in the slider pins even on new calipers. I have also seen where there is sometimes not enough clearance in the brake shoes guide pins on the ends of them where they sit in the calipers too move freely. If you have to take a hammer to knock out the brake shoe out of the caliper its too tight. File them a little. My original shoes went 80,000 miles pulling a horse trailer on my 02 dually. Then went thru 2 sets of after markets in the next 25,000 miles till I figured out what was going on. When the after market companies punch out the shoes they get a little sloppy with sizing them.

So you are saying to flush the system FIRST? It makes sense if I read that right and I will perhaps do just that. Thank you!
 

white59rt

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Personally I run motorcraft parts when it comes to brakes. Brakes have a lot of components that have to work with each other to work properly. Pads and rotors have to be a match for each other since they create a lot of heat. Throw cheap pads on oem rotors and they can't distribute the heat properly and you start getting warped rotors, sticky calipers, loss of braking power.

I just ran into that with all OEM replacement stuff. 78K on factory setup. Just over 40K on the new ones and it all went to hell. I tried to find parts that would work together and had decent reviews. I figured most reman calipers (they are all pretty much remans nowadays I guess) would be similar. I read a post on .org about the raybestos from a guy who I know is a good wrench he said he used them in a pinch and they turned out to be a quality replacement, he was impressed on both pre-installation inspection and how they worked. So I guess we will see. It seems like in recent years the OEM part quality has started to become no more reliable than aftermarket.

Wish me luck LOL.
 

Mdub707

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Every brake failure I've had on my 06 has stemmed from sticking calipers. Had nothing to do with the brake fluid, since this problem started at ~30k miles on the front and has hit every corner multiple times. I have made slide pin maintenance a bi-annual thing (pull them, clean them, re-grease them). I also paint all of my calipers now which has seemed to help quite a bit with corrosion (upstate NY winters). They're definitely lasting longer now. I typically find a caliper piston cracked and egg shaped when I do go metal to metal.
 

white59rt

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Every brake failure I've had on my 06 has stemmed from sticking calipers. Had nothing to do with the brake fluid, since this problem started at ~30k miles on the front and has hit every corner multiple times. I have made slide pin maintenance a bi-annual thing (pull them, clean them, re-grease them). I also paint all of my calipers now which has seemed to help quite a bit with corrosion (upstate NY winters). They're definitely lasting longer now. I typically find a caliper piston cracked and egg shaped when I do go metal to metal.

Noted. Thank you! I planned on coating the slide pins good. I am also flushing the brake system completely. And will do the powersteering (hydroboost) as well. I have all the fluid showing up today, rotors and lines will be here today. Tomorrow is D-Day :) .... hopefully it goes ok and this brake setup lasts awhile, brakes are big $$$.
 

white59rt

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So the outboard pad on the drivers side was metal to metal. ALL other pads were at least 40%. What causes that to happen?
 

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