Resurgence of a F100

That's when you show up with 200.

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:thumbsup:


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Door panels before...


Door panels after...


I used a Satin black, but they are really glossy looking. Only dried about an hour. Would a flat clear tone the gloss down some? It needs some sort of protective coat over the paint anyways.

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289,302,351W,351C all share the small block bell housing.
A light coat of flat should tone it down and take the gloss away.
Test on a small spot on the bottom of the panel or the inside to see for sure.

I love this truck. My first truck was a 73 F100, 360 and 3 on the tree, and I also had a 75
F250 Highboy 390 4speed. I want to do a build with a 67-72 swb hot rod. Good luck with
your project.

Manifolds cleaned up with a coat of flat black. Only had a partial can here...need to get more and put a few more coats on them.



Was planning on a set of long tubes, but most of the reviews I read said there were clearance issues on the passengers side...needing frame slightly notched and all that. I'll deal with that some other time. Unless someone can confirm I WON'T have clearance issues?

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Well, dude with the long block flaked on me. Was supposed to meet him this afternoon, but he got busy and said he'd send his brother. Then wouldn't give me an address until I "got to his town". When I made it clear I wasn't going anywhere until I knew where I was about to be taking my wife and kids, he stopped responding. Got a bit of a shady feeling about that situation. Good news is I found a guy here in my town with a rebuilt short block, zero miles on it since the rebuild. He's out of town until later this week, so hopefully this one will pan out next weekend. If it will, I'll do the fresh short block and order a set of aluminum heads to go with it, and just start fresh top to bottom.

Finished tearing down the short block I have. This thing is trashed. All the rod bearings, as well as the mains, were full of grooves, and they all looked like brass. There's a lip around the top of all 8 cylinders that almost wouldn't let the Pistons come out. Had to take a hammer to them to drive them past it. Either ole boy was horrible to this thing, or whoever rebuilt it was a complete moron.


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Are you sticking with a 302? I only ask because our racecar engine builder has a pile of stuff. I can see if he has anything of interest for you. Probably has some aluminum heads.

If this guy comes through with the rebuilt shortblock, yes I'll stay with the 302. That's been the plan all along anyways.

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Spent the better part of the day doing odds and ends on it. Got the underhood area pressure washed and painted. Used the bedliner in a can from Duplicolor. They had already sprayed something like it on most of the underhood...turned out pretty good I think.



Got new weatherstripping done to both doors/windows, new tail lights, and a few misc interior pieces. Been cleaning and painting engine parts trying to have all that ready for when I get an engine assembled. Valve covers, brackets, oil pan, front cover, ect. Think I'll do an orange block and heads to match the truck, aluminum intake, and black accessories (valve covers, oil pan, brackets, headers). I guess that color combo is sort of chevy-ish, but would look stupid with a blue or red engine in an orange truck I think.

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Here is a little motivation/inspiration. Hope you get a motor soon.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1lCY6T-tg7c

Doesn't work?

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Its a YouTube video, had to go to the laptop to see it.

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Trying again

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1lCY6T-tg7c&sns=em

That was a cool swap, but I can't imagine the fab it took to graft all that together.


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Today was a step in a positive direction. Finally picked up a long block. Sort of stumbled on this one last night. It's a 91 roller motor out of a Mustang. Tore it down today and it looks great. Had the heads and oil pan off it already, and it was stored outside under a shed, so being exposed to the elements there was surface rust. If it hadn't been for that, I would have bolted the heads back on and put it in the truck. Cylinder still have a fantastic looking crosshatch, bearings all look new, etc. I don't think it had all that many miles on it. I got the heads disassembled and cleaned up this afternoon. Need to order a ball hone so I can clean up the cylinders. Going to start ordering parts tonight...rering kit, intake and carb, oil pump, stiffer comp springs/locks and retainers, gaskets....chit like that. Maybe it'll show up by the weekend and I can get it reassembled.

Oh did I mention I got the entire longblock, with a newish water pump, starter, extra flex plate, factory pipe manifolds, AND a set of Hedman shorty GT-40 headers....all for $250. I think I made out well.


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One thing that puzzled me a little during teardown....supposedly this thing has never been completely apart, came out of a running/driving car....but the timing marks looked like this...



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Could be a stretched timing chain... Id get a nice double roller setup since ou got it apart.

Didn't think about that. Also didn't know HO engines came with double rollers. At least that's what this one is.

Is there another block casting on these things besides the one above the starter mount? Trying to verify the year, and all I can read is the last digit.


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Not sure on the block castings. The ho motors are not a true double roller, its a double chain, the roller is up for argument... LOL. There are much better setups you can get, as far as the roller part of tye chain.

Just gonna throw thisout there, but summit has 347 kits fairly cheap... Been looking for my ranger. :naughty: