2012 crank no start low rail pressure

Think you have to program the injectors. I also think that to remove anything on the egr requires tuning. You can use forscan to do the injectors now. If no forscan think it's a dealer job. Or someone with ids

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I know I'll have to program the IQA numbers for the injectors, but I don't know if the 2012 computer will run and be happy with the 2015 pump and injectors. I also know tuning is needed for the EGR removal, but I'm asking if it'll run and drive without it and not go into limp mode? I've never seen anything else I've worked on go into derate due to EGR, but strange things happen. I'm going to get tuning for it, just not right this minute if I don't have to.

Gotcha don't think I understood completley. I think if you do the injectors it should run. I don't think the computer will "know" there is a higher flow pump unless it is giving more fuel then commanding or something. Set a dtc possibly.

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8WR_ZJ said:

Gotcha don't think I understood completley. I think if you do the injectors it should run. I don't think the computer will "know" there is a higher flow pump unless it is giving more fuel then commanding or something. Set a dtc possibly.

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Pump requires nothing tuning wise to run properly. Only thing is, that it is more capable so you can have your tuner command more pulsewidth.

That's what I was hoping to hear.

Any input on the EGR question?

JTS said:

That's what I was hoping to hear.

Any input on the EGR question?

Click to expand...

Anything emission related will go into limp mode if removed. Possibly wont even run. Leave it there till its tuned propper. Or just find a cheap dereet tuner for the time being and get rid of it while you work on it.

live life full throttle

I have all of the parts, except for the high pressure pump, injectors, and fuel cooler. They should hopefully be here Friday. Which means maybe if I have time I can put it together this weekend. Stay tuned, the guy who has never touched a 6-7 before is doing a complete contamination kit.

Here's what the fuel tank looked like when I clean it last weekend. I think it's safe to say they were getting some crappy fuel in that bed mounted tank that was plummed into the filler neck. Zoom in, it's good stuff.

Nice! At least you found the cause....

Oooooooooooooo so sparkles so nice!!!

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So, I've been pretty busy here lately but have managed to get maybe 2 hours of work in on this thing a week. Just enough time to get all my tools out, do a little bit, then pack it all up. Pump is changed, passenger side is done, drivers side is being a pain. One of the injector hold down bolts decided to break off. I soaked it every day for almost 2 weeks with kroil and hoped that a little heat and some vice grips would take it out but i was wrong. Any suggestions on getting it out without removing the head to drill it?

Weld a nut to the bolt. Slid it all the way down, make sure to get a weld all the way around the post. Pick a nut that has a little gap on it to make sure you get good penetration. Let the nut cool to touch before trying to get it out

That's what i was thinking. Is it better to use one that leaves a gap, or use one that threads onto it?

I like to have ones with a gap, but if your threads aren’t jacked up I would try to thread one on first.

JTS said:

That's what i was thinking. Is it better to use one that leaves a gap, or use one that threads onto it?

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Well, that didnt work.

get out the drill...

I always drill a 5/16 hole or thereabouts and hammer a torx bit into it. They are typically stronger than an ez out.

If that doesnt work just keep drilling until you get to the threads. Then take a small pick and fold all the individual threads in. Make sure you dont go too large and hit the threads in the head. The key is to get the hole exactly in the center of the bolt. Retap the threads to the same size.

If that doesnt work pull the head.

I'm just going to pull the head. With the luck I've had lately i know if i try drilling it in the truck I'll end up drilling into the head. I don't have any type of fixture to hold the drill straight either, but i know a guy with a bridgeport in his garage and i know we can get it straight with that.

Anyone used these yet? I'm thinking these bolts and anti seize would prevent this issue in the future...
https://www.spediesel.com/products/ontork-6-7l-psd-injector-hold-down-kit

Also found this... kind of kicking around the idea of buying it then trying to sell it once I'm done with this. It's expensive, but would keep me from having to pull the head and spend more money on new head bolts and a gasket. And I could hopefully recover most of the cost by selling it to someone who does more of this than I do.
http://www.promaxxtool.com/nico_kit.html

Head is off, bolt has been removed, block prepped and head prepped and ready to go back on. Waiting on my new headbolts and gasket to show up.

I found this torque sequence online, can anyone verify that it is correct?

v8 main Cylinder head Bolts
Step 1 = 20 Nm, 15 lb.ft
Step 2 = 49 Nm, 36 lb.ft
Step 3 = 49 Nm, 36 lb.ft (repeat of step 2)
Step 4 = 49 Nm, 36 lb.ft (repeat of step 3)
Step 5 = + 90°
Step 6 = + 90° (additional to step 5)
Step 7 = + 90° (additional to step 6)

v8 minor Cylinder head Bolts
Step 8 = 30 Nm, 22 lb.ft

JTS said:

Head is off, bolt has been removed, block prepped and head prepped and ready to go back on. Waiting on my new headbolts and gasket to show up.

I found this torque sequence online, can anyone verify that it is correct?

v8 main Cylinder head Bolts
Step 1 = 20 Nm, 15 lb.ft
Step 2 = 49 Nm, 36 lb.ft
Step 3 = 49 Nm, 36 lb.ft (repeat of step 2)
Step 4 = 49 Nm, 36 lb.ft (repeat of step 3)
Step 5 = + 90°
Step 6 = + 90° (additional to step 5)
Step 7 = + 90° (additional to step 6)

v8 minor Cylinder head Bolts
Step 8 = 30 Nm, 22 lb.ft

Click to expand...

Wtf.. what torque does that equate to ?? I have never seen directions like that. Lol.. but then again, i havent looked for specs on these newer engines yet..

live life full throttle