Tow mode issue

tyler2k

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So coming into to work today i noticed the on light on the shifter for tow mode was flashing and it started shifting hard, even downshifted hard coasting down hill and the tires sort of locked, no lights I the dash were on and the trans is rebuilt with 3k on it. After i shut it off the light was off.
 

bismic

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hopefully the transmission is still under warranty.

If tow/haul light is blinking, then you most likely have codes, however most generic code readers have trouble reading transmission codes.

fluid level ok? any odor or dark color? what year model truck?
 

tyler2k

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03 f250, ya its got a 12month warranty, and its not the one on the dash its the actual on light on the switch its self
 

bismic

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Yup. I am aware of the tow/haul button. That is why I think you have more of a transmission issue than a base engine issue.
 
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tyler2k

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I figured it wss trans or wiring related. I'm hoping its something stupid like a solenoid or maybe wires rubbing through or something
 

bismic

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The codes will help direct you. Unfortunately the dealership is one of the few places to go to get transmission codes read - and they charge $100 - $150 just for that.
 

tyler2k

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Iv got a full scanner at my shop that can do trans codes so hopefully its nothing to bad
 

tyler2k

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Made it home thank God, light came on but it was different it didn't shift hard or downshift hard , but wouldn't go into overdrive. is parked till Tuesday until i can get it to the shop
 

tyler2k

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Update, i took it for a drive with my scanner plugged in and used it to lock the converter and it did with no issue, but then on the drive back to shop it started shifting all over the place. Im at a loss, no codes came up
 

tyler2k

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Also could the type of fluid cause an issue with the solenoids, just spoke to the place that rebuilt it and said they use mercon v with some additive, im gonna get the sp stuff from ford and change it
 

bismic

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If Mercon V was used, you will be VERY lucky if a simple fluid change resolves your issues.

Be aware that around half the fluid stays in the system when you drain the pan. Because of an internal thermostat, there is no practical way to flush the system. Draining and refilling 3-4 times will get you 90+% change in fluid as long as you drive long enough between drain/fill to fully mix the old and new fluid.
 
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tyler2k

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I did the relearn procedure and it shifts fine now, guess I'll start with the solenoid, and im having the dealer do a flush they have the machine needed, might not help but at least it gets the right fluid in there cause iv read mercon v will kill solenoids
 
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bismic

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Personally I don't believe they have the machine needed. If you ask for the machine brand and model number and their procedure, you won't get a warm fuzzy that they have a heated machine that actually flushes the torque converter also. I could be wrong, but MANY of us have been down this same path. Besides the Service Advisor is not a tech - they frequently do not know the details regarding shop repairs. It is slightly cheaper and more certain to do it yourself - it just takes time. To each his own though.
 

6.0 Tech

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Most of the machines at the daler are a pull fluid out, replace it using the trans pump. Requires getting the fluid hot enough to open the cooler themostat to get the fluid to flow. Most of the machines only have a max of 16qt capacity however, so if the wrong fluid is in there, i would have them do it twice, as i believe the total capacity, ie coolers, lines, converter, pan, is around 18 or so.
 

bismic

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Most of the machines at the daler are a pull fluid out, replace it using the trans pump. Requires getting the fluid hot enough to open the cooler themostat to get the fluid to flow. Most of the machines only have a max of 16qt capacity however, so if the wrong fluid is in there, i would have them do it twice, as i believe the total capacity, ie coolers, lines, converter, pan, is around 18 or so.

+1, the total system is 19 qts and you can drain 8 (+/-) from the pan.
 

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