99-04 lift advice

rman

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Hey y'all,

I'm pretending to think I can afford mods for my truck later this year. 2003 ccsb

Currently has 4" lift on 35s
10 leaf front
4" block (stacked w/ factory)

I want to get up on 38s... here's what I'm thinking:

4" Pmf Shackle/Hanger kit
7"ish PMF block in rear, no stock block

I do realize there will be a dudebro rake.

Big questions are:
Is a 7" block absolutely crazy? Even w/ traction bars?
Is there a more cost-effective way to do this?

I have the factory tow package with rear sway and the dump-truck leafs. Would love to find a softer rear (have helper bags to install), but I would also like to stay married lol.

TIA

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rman

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Also, I bought the truck already lifted. I determined the lift by measuring hub-to-fender and google.

While it measures like a 4", my 35s seem very small. Leads me to believe another 4" in hangers/hackles/blocks will net me a true 4" and 38s won't be an issue.

Also plan to switch my current 20x10 to 20x12, both with 4.5 BS


old pic. horrible color scheme lol. Plan to shoot the whole damn thing in bedliner.
Also got a new bumper and PF/PT mirrors. Just need time
2b961c4f058515e58c38aa3a23e0e6a6.jpg


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Betarocker

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I run 8" OUO Blocks and Bars with stock rear springs on my 2016.

My 2004 had 3" Icon hanger/shackle with 4" Icon leafs in the front. 5" Icon leafs in the back, 1" block, and axle mount OUO bars. Firestone bags with Daystar cups for when weight was carried.

Think about relocating the rear hanger forward and using 08+ springs. Icon, Deaver (Carli) will be softest riding, but the OEM on my 2016 is a good compromise and can carry loads if the auxiliary leaf is maintained.
 

rman

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I run 8" OUO Blocks and Bars with stock rear springs on my 2016.

My 2004 had 3" Icon hanger/shackle with 4" Icon leafs in the front. 5" Icon leafs in the back, 1" block, and axle mount OUO bars. Firestone bags with Daystar cups for when weight was carried.

Think about relocating the rear hanger forward and using 08+ springs. Icon, Deaver (Carli) will be softest riding, but the OEM on my 2016 is a good compromise and can carry loads if the auxiliary leaf is maintained.
Any trouble with the huge blocks? I am leaning this way mainly due to simplicity, especially with adding bags. In my mind I forsee it as a non-issue if you can keep axlewrap under control.

In a perfect world I would get the 08+ leafs. They've gotta be a dime a dozen. I just feel that the shackle relocation brackets are freaking expensive lol.

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79jasper

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That big of a block would be scary. I guess that's why he's running the traction bars. Pretty much a requirement with that much block.

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rman

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That big of a block would be scary. I guess that's why he's running the traction bars. Pretty much a requirement with that much block.

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Yep, I wouldn't run them without.
Well, bars are in the grand scheme regardless.

Just not sure if I want to get high arched springs in the rear. Seems Fabtech might be the best blend between quality and budget. Still looking at $600ish for a pair

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Betarocker

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Any trouble with the huge blocks? I am leaning this way mainly due to simplicity, especially with adding bags. In my mind I forsee it as a non-issue if you can keep axlewrap under control.

In a perfect world I would get the 08+ leafs. They've gotta be a dime a dozen. I just feel that the shackle relocation brackets are freaking expensive lol.

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Remove and reuse the hanger that's on there now. Just need to chisel off the rivets.

Key for any leaf spring are traction bars, regardless of arch or block height. If they are soft enough to allow the axle to move up and down, they will wrap.
I have no issue with how my rear lift is done. 3/4" u-bolts are though tabs in the block so they can't pop out.

OUO are the only bars I would suggest. Their design takes into account the path of the axle during the spring travel.
 

rman

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Have to talked to a spring shop about building some?

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not yet... I should though. My fronts are a little stiff as well. Maybe..
Remove and reuse the hanger that's on there now. Just need to chisel off the rivets.

Key for any leaf spring are traction bars, regardless of arch or block height. If they are soft enough to allow the axle to move up and down, they will wrap.
I have no issue with how my rear lift is done. 3/4" u-bolts are though tabs in the block so they can't pop out.

OUO are the only bars I would suggest. Their design takes into account the path of the axle during the spring travel.
I just read a thread on relocating for the 99-04. Not too bad, hardest part is re-routing the parking brale cable.

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Betarocker

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not yet... I should though. My fronts are a little stiff as well. Maybe.. I just read a thread on relocating for the 99-04. Not too bad, hardest part is re-routing the parking brale cable.

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Rockauto has right side hangers for about $50. They can be used on the driver's side, but don't have the hole and slot for the parking brake cable. Keep existing hanger for parking brake and cut off whatever might interfere with the leafs. That $100 would be worth it to me not to have to chisel off the rivets as that can be a crappy job.
 

rman

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Rockauto has right side hangers for about $50. They can be used on the driver's side, but don't have the hole and slot for the parking brake cable. Keep existing hanger for parking brake and cut off whatever might interfere with the leafs. That $100 would be worth it to me not to have to chisel off the rivets as that can be a crappy job.
had a 2000 F150 and it took me 2 days on and off to get the hangers off. broke my air hammer too. Ended up drilling and hammering them out.

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